HDS HDS Systems EDC # 19

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the.Mtn.Man

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If a light was bright enough for a certain task then, it is still bright enough now.
I like the amateur radio school of thought: use the least amount of power necessary for the job.

My wife, on the other hand, keeps her 200 lumen Rotary permanently set to maximum brightness.
 
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emarkd

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Yeah thanks for the heads up and I'll certainly be alert to it's behavior, but really my light is working great. Maybe the 219c is somehow more suited to the Novatac driver than the older Luxeon. I don't know...
 

Slumber

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Is it possible to remove strobe in tactical rotary?

As far as I know, that would require a trip back to Henry to reprogram it. But yes, it can be done. I had a tactical Rotary re-programmed as a regular Rotary...

I've never owned a Tactical Rotary, but according to this video by Hogo, the Strobe can be programmed out. The momentary only function on the right half of the dial (from off), however, cannot without being sent back for reprogramming.
https://youtu.be/SOjfBVHg0H8
 
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Lithium466

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Is it possible to remove strobe in tactical rotary?
As far as I know, that would require a trip back to Henry to reprogram it. But yes, it can be done. I had a tactical Rotary re-programmed as a regular Rotary...

+1 with Slumber Pass post, yes, it can be programmed out, but it'll stay momentary. No need to send it back to manufacturer for reprogramming, unless you want it transformed to a normal rotary of course.
 

AVService

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I've never owned a Tactical Rotary, but according to this video by Hogo, the Strobe can be programmed out. The momentary only function on the right half of the dial (from off), however, cannot without being sent back for reprogramming.
https://youtu.be/SOjfBVHg0H8


Cool I can see how either of these options could be useful to me,that Strobe is just strange to me and I am not sure I have any use for it at all?
 

Lithium466

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It combines the advantages of having for example max and another level in "real momentary" easily accessible, with the option of (almost) the normal rotary range within a turn of the button.
 

AVService

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It combines the advantages of having for example max and another level in "real momentary" easily accessible, with the option of (almost) the normal rotary range within a turn of the button.


I got the impression that you can only choose between Strobe and Full output for those 2 positions?

I guess I will have to try it for myself.
 

Lithium466

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I got the impression that you can only choose between Strobe and Full output for those 2 positions?

I guess I will have to try it for myself.
No no, you can set whatever mode you want to these 2 position, but they will strictly remain momentary. If I remember correctly though, the "last" position is also shared with the "press when on" setting (usually it goes to maximum when you press the button while on)...that's a serious limit in the UI I forgot to talk about before, sorry.
 

INFRNL

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Hey all, especially the ones that have seen me lately around a few different threads.

I'm thinking about getting ready to place an order but ave a few questions that i am not clear on. I think I read every page since dec last year. Not even sure if this is where i need to be but thought I'd post here anyway.

I'm pretty sure i am set on a rotary for my first HDS, but i am trying to decide between the standard rotary and tactical. Not sure which is more desired if that's possible (probably depends on the individuals needs) Could use help in deciding which one to go with. Mainly looking for an all around edc. I'm coming from a couple of old 4/7 quarks with tailswitch. Recently picked up a ZL sc600mkIII Hi, and fenix pd35tac, so tailswitch is not all i have used. Also have a tiny feinx with twisty that only likes to change modes when if feels like (not a fan of this option)
I do definitely want the rotary though on the HDS


From my understanding they are very similar with a few variations in operation.
Standard has 24? levels of lighting and shortcuts to strobe/beacon, max, and I am unclear if it has momentary or not(via switch button).

Tactical has 12? levels of brightness, then strobe, then momentary? And some of this can be changed through user programming. Also has short cuts and momentary from switch button.

To me it seems like they almost share all the same functions available but in a slightly different manor?

Just not sure which one to go for. std rotary may be nice for more levels, but then maybe the tactical has plenty but other features/settings are better. A momentary mode would be a plus but not necessarily. I have never used the stobe/beacon/sos mode but may be used at some point in life. Although they both have it.





Next is emitter option and according to the site, i'm pretty sure I have this figured out but thought I saw someone mention something different than what's available on the site.
I want a neutral temp/tint emitter.

According to HDS this only leaves 1 option: the Nichia 219b 4k 93CRI 200lm emitter. Is this in fact the only option?
I thought I saw someone say something about a higher output 4k NW emitter, maybe that was an older version, idk I think the CRI was lower as well




I think, lastly: battery size/device dia.:

What are the benefits of the 18650 over cr123a/16340? I imagine that it will just be runtime and no other benefit.
I heard that the diameter is 1" on the 123 device. If this is so, what is the diameter on the 18650? Maybe this was a silly question. I imagine the switch and head dia stay the same just the body dia gets slightly bigger for the 18650.

Thanks for any help/info
 
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emarkd

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All HDS's have momentary so that's not a factor. They've all got strobes and beacons and whatnot, and are fully programmable so you can access those things in several different ways. So those aren't factors either. Really the only difference (as far as I know) is how the tailcap rotation areas are laid out. My biggest "gripe" with the Tactical Rotary design is that so much of the rotation range of the tailcap is devoted to "tactical" features, and I don't carry a light for tactical reasons. So I strongly prefer the normal Rotary -- all the way ccw is dimmest, all the way cw is brightest. Half way is roughly half light, etc. So I know exactly what to expect when I press the button. But that's just my opinion. I'm sure others prefer the Tactical layout for their own reasons.

As to your other questions I think the HCri200 is beautiful and is definitely the cleanest tint HDS is currently offering. I love mine. And yes, the other battery tubes just have size/cell flexibility and runtime differences. Output amount is regulated and unaffected. And yes, its all in the body. In fact you can buy different bodies by themselves and swap your head onto them.
 

INFRNL

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All HDS's have momentary so that's not a factor. They've all got strobes and beacons and whatnot, and are fully programmable so you can access those things in several different ways. So those aren't factors either. Really the only difference (as far as I know) is how the tailcap rotation areas are laid out. My biggest "gripe" with the Tactical Rotary design is that so much of the rotation range of the tailcap is devoted to "tactical" features, and I don't carry a light for tactical reasons. So I strongly prefer the normal Rotary -- all the way ccw is dimmest, all the way cw is brightest. Half way is roughly half light, etc. So I know exactly what to expect when I press the button. But that's just my opinion. I'm sure others prefer the Tactical layout for their own reasons.

As to your other questions I think the HCri200 is beautiful and is definitely the cleanest tint HDS is currently offering. I love mine. And yes, the other battery tubes just have size/cell flexibility and runtime differences. Output amount is regulated and unaffected. And yes, its all in the body. In fact you can buy different bodies by themselves and swap your head onto them.

Thank you. I tried to do my homework the best I could and sounds like I was on the right track; just needed some clarification. I will wait for others to chime in(not a big rush anyway since I can expect a wait, plus I am usually away from home for 2-3 weeks anyway) but from what you state, sounds like I like your thoughts about the std rotary and am leaning that way. I don't carry for tactical reasons either.
 

Mobileschoney

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I ordered the standard Rotary in the Hi Cri one week ago today, can't wait to get it. I went with the regular mineral glass lens as it's pretty well protected in the bezel. I used to have a Rotary 325, loved the light but I wanted the Hi Cri so I sold it to fund this one. Also went with the flush button as I like a light that can tail stand.
Only other option I can think of is I already ordered a Thor's Hammer Holster for mine, sold my last one with the light.
Personally I think you're on the right track INFRNL.
 

INFRNL

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I ordered the standard Rotary in the Hi Cri one week ago today, can't wait to get it. I went with the regular mineral glass lens as it's pretty well protected in the bezel. I used to have a Rotary 325, loved the light but I wanted the Hi Cri so I sold it to fund this one. Also went with the flush button as I like a light that can tail stand.
Only other option I can think of is I already ordered a Thor's Hammer Holster for mine, sold my last one with the light.
Personally I think you're on the right track INFRNL.

Thank you. I prefer the flush button option as well for the same reason. I have to be able to tail stand, unless its a big light, then I don't care.

I knew I forgot to ask about something else, thanks for bringing it up.

I was going to ask about the lens. Is it worthwhile to get the sapphire lens? maybe for the long haul, otherwise a glass lens should last nearly a lifetime depending on abuse
 

Pöbel

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Don't go sapphire. There is absolutely no advantage and you get LESS light. The Lens is recessed, it will not get scratched.
 

the0dore3524

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The sapphire lens is a lot stronger than the glass lens. In the case it does get scratched, it's much more resistant too. Basically if you want the utmost in durability.
 
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