HDS Systems EDC #22

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WarriorOfLight

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The handling is quite easy. I use NOA61 to fill the slot.

Place the trit, align the trit in the slot with a needle. I used a tooth stick to put the NOA in the trit slot. I put the tooth stick into the NOA61. Than moved to the trit slot. On the tooth stick should be a drop of NOA61.
This will ne done a few times until the trit slot with the trit is colpletely filled. Also put a little bit more NOA in the slot, it shrinks a little bit during cure. To cure the NOA, use a UV light or Sunlight.
After 10-15 minutes the NOA is cured in summer sunlight. With a good UV light it should go faster.

Do this for wach trit slot until all are done. If you want wait an hour or a little bit more between processing the next slot, than the NOA is completely cured and hard like a rock.

It it dies bot work at the first time and NOA is not only in the trit slot, remove the liqid NOA with a piece of toilet paper clean everything with ethanol or something similar and statt again.

It is no problem to do this NOA handling in a normal room. The only thing is the NOA bottle should not be placed in the sun. You could put a small amount of NOA on a piece of printer paper. A few big drops that were moved from the bottle to the paper will laste for one trit slot.

If there are additional questions feel free to ask...
 

d13avo

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Thankyou WarriorOfLight, I'll attempt this soon. The only question I have is would you put a small bit of NOA61 in the slot before you insert the trit tube so it sits on the liquid and not directly onto the metal or does this not make any difference?

The handling is quite easy. I use NOA61 to fill the slot.

Place the trit, align the trit in the slot with a needle. I used a tooth stick to put the NOA in the trit slot. I put the tooth stick into the NOA61. Than moved to the trit slot. On the tooth stick should be a drop of NOA61.
This will ne done a few times until the trit slot with the trit is colpletely filled. Also put a little bit more NOA in the slot, it shrinks a little bit during cure. To cure the NOA, use a UV light or Sunlight.
After 10-15 minutes the NOA is cured in summer sunlight. With a good UV light it should go faster.

Do this for wach trit slot until all are done. If you want wait an hour or a little bit more between processing the next slot, than the NOA is completely cured and hard like a rock.

It it dies bot work at the first time and NOA is not only in the trit slot, remove the liqid NOA with a piece of toilet paper clean everything with ethanol or something similar and statt again.

It is no problem to do this NOA handling in a normal room. The only thing is the NOA bottle should not be placed in the sun. You could put a small amount of NOA on a piece of printer paper. A few big drops that were moved from the bottle to the paper will laste for one trit slot.

If there are additional questions feel free to ask...
 

sledhead

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61 is the best way to go, however, I've used clear nail polish also and have had great success. Seems to hold up well...have not lost a trit yet. :thumbsup:
 

WarriorOfLight

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Thankyou WarriorOfLight, I'll attempt this soon. The only question I have is would you put a small bit of NOA61 in the slot before you insert the trit tube so it sits on the liquid and not directly onto the metal or does this not make any difference?

At first a little bit NOA61 in the trit slot, than place the trit in the slot (that is the easiest way to prevent air bubbles). I used than the needle to move the trit in the correct position (trit is really centered in the slot. Than I filled the slot completely with NOA61 in the way I described.
 

Gray Matter

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Are there any experiences of how long (years) the rubber switch of a rotary with a flush button survives until I can send the lamp to Tucson?
 

d13avo

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When I put a bit of extra NAO61 in as you state it shrinks a bit after curing, should any surplus be wiped clean before curing or can it be removed after? Or if you do get some on the bezel before curing is it worth cleaning and starting from fresh or just wipe clean the excess off? Cheers
 

WarriorOfLight

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The best is all NOA is only in the trit slot. When I was clumsy and some NOA61 was beside the trit slot I cleaned up everything and started from the begin.
The aim is that you only put NOA in the trit slot. You can put a little bit more NOA61 into this slot. Than it looks like it is too much, nut at the end after it is cured it is not too much anymore.

It is also the case if the NOA is cured so far that it is not liquid anymore. For some time it is like gel. It is possible to remove NOA61 in this state with the trit without damaging the trit. It is also easy to "clean up" the trit slot.

There is really no reason to be afraid. If you are a little bit handy than it is really no problem. The important thing is no rush and take your time. I would fix the bezel ring somehow to be sure it will not move as long as I am working on the particular trit slot.
 

d13avo

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Thank you WarriorOfLight, I'll post some pictures when it's all done.

The best is all NOA is only in the trit slot. When I was clumsy and some NOA61 was beside the trit slot I cleaned up everything and started from the begin.
The aim is that you only put NOA in the trit slot. You can put a little bit more NOA61 into this slot. Than it looks like it is too much, nut at the end after it is cured it is not too much anymore.

It is also the case if the NOA is cured so far that it is not liquid anymore. For some time it is like gel. It is possible to remove NOA61 in this state with the trit without damaging the trit. It is also easy to "clean up" the trit slot.

There is really no reason to be afraid. If you are a little bit handy than it is really no problem. The important thing is no rush and take your time. I would fix the bezel ring somehow to be sure it will not move as long as I am working on the particular trit slot.
 

Romanko

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d13avo

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Has anyone on here ever purchased or used the HDS Handlebar Mount? I was thinking of purchasing a couple of these but was curious to what people thought of them. Are they designed by Henry so therefore reliable? Pro's, Con's etc
 

Random Dan

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Has anyone on here ever purchased or used the HDS Handlebar Mount? I was thinking of purchasing a couple of these but was curious to what people thought of them. Are they designed by Henry so therefore reliable? Pro's, Con's etc
I have an identical looking product made by Twofish, probably the same thing. I ran one on my bike back when I was riding it daily, usually carrying an HDS rotary or Zebralight SC60. It worked ok but it would usually shift from a big enough bump. I'd probably have to adjust it once or twice per commute. Overall it's ok for the price but nothing great.
 

d13avo

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I have an identical looking product made by Twofish, probably the same thing. I ran one on my bike back when I was riding it daily, usually carrying an HDS rotary or Zebralight SC60. It worked ok but it would usually shift from a big enough bump. I'd probably have to adjust it once or twice per commute. Overall it's ok for the price but nothing great.

Thank you Random Dan, this sounds like it will be ok for my needs but are there any other mounts you would recommend?
 

RCS1300

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Has anyone on here ever purchased or used the HDS Handlebar Mount? I was thinking of purchasing a couple of these but was curious to what people thought of them. Are they designed by Henry so therefore reliable? Pro's, Con's etc

Yes, I purchased and used the HDS handlebar mount. It is good for short distances but will tend to move around when going on longer rides and using the 18650 battery tube. I ride 40 miles/ride and towards the end of my rides the light will migrate downwards and need about one adjustment per ride.

I went to the fenix ALB-10 bike mount for $20. You can pick one up at fenix lighting. It is larger in size but stays in the position you put it in for the long bike rides. I have not had to adjust my fenix bike mount since I purchased it 5,200 miles ago.
 
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d13avo

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Yes, I purchased and used the HDS handlebar mount. It is good for short distances but will tend to move around when going on longer rides and using the 18650 battery tube. I ride 40 miles/ride and towards the end of my rides the light will migrate downwards and need about one adjustment per ride.

I went to the fenix ALB-10 bike mount for $20. You can pick one up at fenix lighting. It is larger in size but stays in the position you put it in for the long bike rides. I have not had to adjust my fenix bike mount since I purchased it 5,200 miles ago.

Thank you RCS1300, really helpful.
 

d13avo

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Just sat here thinking about the HDS BeCu Dan and thought of another unique HDS presale.

What about a HDS Rotary manufactured in a hard transparent plastic of some type so we can see all the internals, rotary fingers etc, oh and the Elf.
 
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