HDS Systems question

jon_slider

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here are the presets from HDS site links
executive 250 and
140 and 170 models

note re 140 model, Lithium reports it is set to level 20, not 19,
my 140 executive came from factory with B as level 16, C level 20, A 24 and D...I'm not sure and don't want to do a factory reset right now!)

summary of Factory presets:
29186023357_3c0447aca4_b.jpg



---
44966814892_c21fe632e3_b.jpg


45014991881_67495bf64e_h.jpg
 
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jon_slider

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- https://www.hdssystems.com/Products/Executive/
Once the light is on, you can always press and hold for Maximum (level 24), double-click to toggle between Medium (level 16)and Medium High (level 20) and triple-click for Low (level 8). Maximum is always directly available, even from off.

thanks!


note re 140 model, Lithium reports it is set to level 20, not 19,
my 140 executive came from factory with B as level 16, C level 20, A 24 and D...I'm not sure and don't want to do a factory reset right now!)

summary of Factory presets:
29186023357_3c0447aca4_b.jpg
 
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Hogokansatsukan

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It's magic! Thank you!

OK thanks.... so where would I get the lumen spec for those other calibrated levels? is there a numeric lumen chart (other than trying to interpolate the line graph in the Adv. Manual)? Or just take 325 and divide by 1.5, then divide by 1.5 again, etc.?

Should remember as well, a dirty lens will effect these numbers. I have had my lens so it would lower the output by 10% from pocket lint and dust. Whenever I recalibrate my light, I have to do a good cleaning of the lens. Even holster carry it gets dusty, especially if I've been out on dirt roads in the MUTT.

So, if you are going to use these to calibrate anything, make sure it is a new and fresh battery and you have the lens nice and clean. Helps to keep the original reflector on it as well (black or silver) and absolutely the original reflector!


You guys do realize that I get 90% of this info from the HDS website (Yes. The web site sucks on toast), the other 9% from Henry and 1% from the bottom of a bottle of rum. I may have those percentages mixed up. Not sure. It's late.

If you are on ZuckerBook, I post a lot of this stuff about once or twice a week.
 
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WarriorOfLight

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If you are on ZuckerBook, I post a lot of this stuff about once or twice a week.
Maybe an idea creating a locked thread with your interesting stuff, advices, hints, ... where you only can add posts. This thread would be a collection of interesting stuff for all not be on ZuckerBook.

You should keep in mind, if I ever be on ZuckerBook, I sell all my HDS light and will not buy one anymore.
I think about this paradox every day. Until now HDS wins every day... :D

*Sorry had a clown for lunch*
 

Modernflame

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If you are on ZuckerBook, I post a lot of this stuff about once or twice a week.

I studied this sentence for an embarrassingly long time before I realized you were referring to Facebook. I recognized "Zucker" as the German word for "sugar," and wondered if you'd become a baking enthusiast.

Thanks for the reminder. I'll check in periodically for HDS news.
 

RCS1300

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Thank you for that Lumen chart! I was programming my Executives using my unaided eye.

That ramping is very interesting and useful - particularly to estimate run times on each lumen level between min and max. (I know that power usage ramps steeply at a significantly increasing rate near max lumens and is non linear to increasing lumen levels :)).
 
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Hogokansatsukan

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Thank you for that Lumen chart! I was programming my Executives using my unaided eye.

That ramping is very interesting and useful - particularly to estimate run times on each lumen level between min and max. (I know that power usage ramps steeply at an significantly increasing rate near max lumens and is non linear to increasing lumen levels :)).

Unfortunately, I'm in charge of HDS Systems, Inc Zuckbook page, so all I do is post info that is already on the HDS website... like this:

How long will the batteries last on each brightness level?
The following table shows the minimum ANSI FL-1 runtime for each brightness level. The ANSI FL-1 runtime is defined as a drop to 10% of the original brightness, which corresponds to a drop in 6 brightness levels. Level 24 is tested with Burst disabled. Level 23 is tested starting with level 24 with Burst enabled so the resulting runtime is slightly shorter than if the test had started with level 23.
The table provides information for several representative battery configurations. The tests were done with new premium batteries on an integrating sphere at room temperature. Per the ANSI FL-1 standard, runtimes under an hour are rounded to the nearest minute, runtimes from 1 to 10 hours are rounded to the nearest 15 minutes and runtimes over 10 hours are rounded to the nearest hour.
Tactical runtimes are listed in parentheses for levels that are normally tactically bright. The tactical runtime is defined as the runtime down to 50 lumens. The tactical runtimes listed assume level 21 is above 50 lumens and level 20 is below 50 lumens.
Data is shown for a sampling of brightness levels. You can extrapolate the runtime data for other levels by using the ratio of 1.5:1 to estimate the runtime differences between adjacent levels.

38496514-1459404687532274-3587281450124181504-o.png

 

RCS1300

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Yes, thank you for that second chart in Post #50. I saw that chart on the HDS website. Between that chart and the lumen chart introduced before it in this thread I can get a good understanding of power usage on the lumen ramp from Moonlight to max for my High CRI lights.

In my lights I run 700 mAH rechargeables and:

Level 24 - 200 lumens (approx. 38 minutes) [A, max]
Level 1 - .02 lumens (current rumor is 3 continuous days) [B, turn on]
Level 19 - 27 lumens (approx. 270 minutes) [C, two clicks]
Level 22 - 90 lumens (approx. 114 minutes) [D, three clicks]

Edit add: 90 percent of my usage is at .02 and 27 lumens. (I operate in environments where my HDS lights rarely compete with ambient light. I do have a 900 lumen specialized light from Thrunite (Catapult: 2x-18650) that will throw a usable beam over 100 yards but I cannot fit it in a Thors Hammer Custom Leather front Pocket holster as the reflector is over 2.5 inches wide. I have found in spaces less than 50 feet in radius from me(as the center) no more than 200 max lumens is needed).
 
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reppans

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Thanks for the charts and info guys...

FWIW when I first got my 325 at the end of 2014 (first 325 on CPF btw) I did a 1.5x calc and got a lumen chart extremely close the chart above. In my light box, however, although I tied up well to the 0.02min and 325max, all the other modes were off from the chart, primarily due to a more gradual/non-linear ramping up through the lowest sub-lumen levels. Nothing big or worthy of complaining about, and mostly undetectable by the naked eye, except through the sub-lumen levels which differed by 2-3x. Difference could be my light box or calibration of course, but I'm a sub-lumen connoisseur and at least find it very accurate in the low lows - the moonlight & low mode spacing make or break flashlights for me.

I personally have my clicky programmed to 0.4 and 3 lms as my B and C preset toggle (~90% of my light usage), 33 lms as preset D (~8% usage), and 325 as A. Those are modes 10, 14, 19, and 24, respectively, on my sample. Based on my lumen measurements, my OEM presets were indeed set for modes 8, 16, 20, and 24.

As a general rule with my lights, I like estimating runtime around 150-200 lumen-hours for rechargeables in the 1x 16340/14500/AA Eneloop typical EDC batts, which have similar watt-hrs capacity. The best efficiency is in the middle of the lumen range, and moonlights drop well below 100 lm-hrs. Some examples: 300lm X 0.5hr; 3lm X 50hr; 20lm X 10 hr; 50lm X 4hr; 0.4lm X 200 hrs (although ACME thread HDSs are less efficient at moonlight due to driver overhead). Course you need a good read on lumen output for this to work... not really feasible with naked eye, and often mfg spec as well.
 
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maukka

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In my lights I run 700 mAH rechargeables and:

Level 24 - 200 lumens (approx. 38 minutes) [A, max]
Level 1 - .02 lumens (current rumor is 3 continuous days) [B, turn on]
Level 19 - 27 lumens (approx. 270 minutes) [C, two clicks]
Level 22 - 90 lumens (approx. 114 minutes) [D, three clicks]

Isn't that atrociously bad on the lower levels? Like 50 lm/W at 27 lumens assuming a 2.3 Wh battery (4.5 h * 27 lm / 2.3 Wh = 53 lm/W). And gets even worse the lower you go?

The 90 lumen level seems fine for a high CRI emitter though.
 

RCS1300

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Isn't that atrociously bad on the lower levels? Like 50 lm/W at 27 lumens assuming a 2.3 Wh battery (4.5 h * 27 lm / 2.3 Wh = 53 lm/W). And gets even worse the lower you go?

The 90 lumen level seems fine for a high CRI emitter though.

My 27 lumen run time was a very rough guess as I do not have a lumen run time curve. The run time is probably much better. If I had an interest, I could test the run time at 27 lumens or could try to interpolate a lumen run time curve based on the five data points in post #52. At the moment, I am content with knowing I definitely have more than four hours of use at 27 lumens.

Edit add: Plotting the known lumen run time data points in post #52 in a scatter chart I eye balled the intersection of 27 lumens to run time and found it be between 6.6 and 7.5 hours. One would need several more data points at lumen levels between 50 and 10 lumens to better fit an accurate non-linear curve.
 
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parametrek

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Level 1 - .02 lumens (current rumor is 3 continuous days)

NBP tested this in 2014 and got 140 hours from a CR123A. That is where I got the numbers in my database. But he tested a clicky and maybe the rotaries have higher background drain.
 

CREEXHP70LED

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One reason is that the FL-1 standard isn't exactly what most people think it is. It is heavily gamed.

First, it is only necessary for a company to test 3 "representative" lights for it. These can be cherry picked by the company, so what is advertised as a 1000 lumen light is going to vary considerably in output and runtime.

Second... well, watch the video by Elzeta here

The FL1 standard was first proposed by Brad Penny (president of Streamlight) at SHOT Show in 2003. HDS wrote a paper proposing what to use from 2003-2005 and sent it out. "Proposed Standards for Measuring Flashlight Output" The National Electrical Manufacturers Association (NEMA) which was/is a committee consisting of a bunch of flashlight manufacturers (see below) proposed the FL1 standard to ANSI.

Who made the FL1?

Dorcy International
Princeton Tec
Coast
Surefire, LLC
Golight

Petzl
The Brinkman Corporation
Energizer Holdings
ASP Inc.
Streamlight, Inc.
Cat Eye Co., Inc.
Black Diamond
The Coleman Company Inc.
Duracell, Inc.




Yes I saw that video a while ago, and since it s obvious they are comparing a Surefire to the Elzetta I will be buying a Charlie model soon.
 

jon_slider

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...
[/B][/U]In my lights I run 700 mAH rechargeables and:

Level 24 - 200 lumens (approx. 38 minutes) [A, max]
Level 1 - .02 lumens (current rumor is 3 continuous days) [B, turn on]
Level 19 - 27 lumens (approx. 270 minutes) [C, two clicks]
Level 22 - 90 lumens (approx. 114 minutes) [D, three clicks]

Edit add: 90 percent of my usage is at .02 and 27 lumens. (I operate in environments where my HDS lights rarely compete with ambient light. ... I have found in spaces less than 50 feet in radius from me(as the center) no more than 200 max lumens is needed).

thanks for taking the time to share info.. yellow boxes are factory defaults, blue boxes are your HDS 200 custom settings

...my 325... clicky programmed to ... modes 10, 14, 19, and 24...
dark blue is your presets info, but it does not match your lumens, so I will update this when I have more accurate data
44078057441_443ab9b7da_c.jpg


here is the best factory default info I have so far:

note re 140 model, Lithium reports it is set to level 20, not 19,
my 140 executive came from factory with B as level 16, C level 20, A 24 and D...I'm not sure and don't want to do a factory reset right now!)

summary of Factory presets:
29186023357_3c0447aca4_b.jpg
 
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