Headlamp: 1 to 4 AA, floody w/ throw, no PWM

bon1

Newly Enlightened
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Feb 11, 2012
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After having spent countless hours reading CPF, I still don't know what headlamp I should buy. 🙁

I'm in the market for what will be my first headlamp and I've decided that the ZL H51 could probably be a good candidate. When I'm working, I usually use my flashlights at around 20 to 30 lumens and the H51 seems to have a rather good runtime on that setting. The 100 lumen mode also seems to have a much better runtime than anything else that I have seen before, but 2+ hours is still a bit on the short side. I only wish the 100 and 200 lumen modes were instead around 60~80 and 140~160 lumens respectively--for the increased runtimes.

Since I'd preffer not to have to fiddle with the tailcap, how much of an annoyance it really is the "accidental activation issue" commonly reported here on CPF?

Eventually, I would like to know of any headlamps that have the following characteristics:

AA NiMH LSD (plus alkaline and lithium primaries).
No PWM -- fully current controled.
Reasonably floody with some throw in it.
Anything from 1AA to 4AA.
Batteries in front of the head, back of the head, waist, ... anything should be good.
A number of well-spaced modes so I can take the most out of the headlamp.
Said headlamp must not have a record of reliability issues.
90 USD or less (comfort zone 40 USD to 60 USD).

Some headlamps that I've discarded (I may have made a mistake... beware!):

Petzl MYO RXP -> Discarded because it uses PWM.
Fenix HP11 -> It's all throw and no flood, plus it weights a bit too much.
Fenix HL30 -> I'm having a hard time trusting its hinge system.
Fenix HL21 -> The headlamp holder seems to be prone to breaking if we're to trust some user complains available on the Internet.
Spark ST5 -> It doesn't seem to like NiMH cells.
Spark SD52 -> It doesn't seem to fancy NiMH batteries.
Princeton Tec Apex -> As I understand it, too many users seem to complain about its build quality--am I wrong?

What else is left? I didn't think that picking up an AA headlamp would be all that difficult... 🙁 Also, I couldn't find much info here on CPF about the Silva Trail Runner and its sister the Silva Trail Runner Plus--are they any good?

Since any headlamp is better than no headlamp at all, I guess that I'll be getting the Zebralight H51 even despite the potential "unintented activation issue".

Any advice will be helpful, thanks for reading! 🙂
 
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Fenix HL30 -> I'm having a hard time trusting its hinge system.
Fenix HL21 -> The headlamp holder seems to be prone to breaking if we're to trust some user complains available on the Internet.

the HL30s do have a bit of a rep for breaking at the hinge, a member sent me to a thread on another forum with pics of it breaking..

but if you are careful I think it will be ok.. tough call


the HL21, as far as I know, has been updated since it's first version, which had major issues,... it should be fine now
 
Thanks for your input, Ezeriel! 🙂

Could someone else please confirm that the current Fenix HL21 headlamp does not have any kown issues?

Also, could someone please confirm or deny that the Fenix HP11 has a too bright spot compared to its spill for up close work?

Eventually, are there really no other headlamps that comply with the above criteria?
 
Have you considered the SureFire Minimus? I think they have an AA version...only thing is, the cheapest Minimus I've seen is just over $100.
 
Have you considered the SureFire Minimus? I think they have an AA version...only thing is, the cheapest Minimus I've seen is just over $100.

Thank your for your advice, but the SF Minimus AA is way over my budged. 🙁

I hope that there must be other headlamp models that satisfy my requirements. 🙂 Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find them. 🙁
 
If your anything like me your really ruff on the things you work with. I work in such dark tight place that Im forced to buy whats cheapest because Im going to break it. I tried I tried hl30 but when it broke I lost my investment (in a ok a best light) I go to walmart and by the cheapest if it breaks u havent lost anything esp. on a budget
 
Thank you for your advice, Br243! 🙂 That HL30 doesn't definately look very well build--it's a pitty.

I'd preffer to use NiMH LSD batteries, thus I'm going to need a regulated headlamp. The thing is that most regulated headlamps seem to use PWM so that restricts my choices as well.

At this moment, I'm only aware of two models that are regulated and current controled, they're the Fenix HP11 and the Zebralight H51.

On the one hand, the H51 may have short runtimes when compared against the HP11, it's also got this accidental activation issue, and it seems that several users on this forum are complaining about the headband provided with the H51 making the headlamp too wobbly. On the other hand, the HP11 has a too bright spot making the use of that (apparently) flimsy diffuser mandatory.

It's a tough decision and that's why I'm on the look for alternatives. 🙂
 
Thank you for your advice, Br243! 🙂 That HL30 doesn't definately look very well build--it's a pitty.

I'd preffer to use NiMH LSD batteries, thus I'm going to need a regulated headlamp. The thing is that most regulated headlamps seem to use PWM so that restricts my choices as well.

At this moment, I'm only aware of two models that are regulated and current controled, they're the Fenix HP11 and the Zebralight H51.

On the one hand, the H51 may have short runtimes when compared against the HP11, it's also got this accidental activation issue, and it seems that several users on this forum are complaining about the headband provided with the H51 making the headlamp too wobbly. On the other hand, the HP11 has a too bright spot making the use of that (apparently) flimsy diffuser mandatory.

It's a tough decision and that's why I'm on the look for alternatives. 🙂

Those are very different lights for different carry styles and purposes. Is a long run time important to you? Or the ability carry the light in your pocket and use it at moment's notice more important? Many people have come up with simple solutions to solve the potential accidental activation and the bouncing headband of the H51 you mentioned. I am surprised that you didn't read about these solutions in the threads where these issues were raised.

The accidental activation can be solved by putting an 0-ring above the switch. The stretching and bouncing headband can be replaced with a rigid Velcro headband. Some people use something called a Nite ize headband. For multi-uses and optimal EDC, I use a headband made completely from Velco. It's available at Walmart and there is enough for 4 headbands.
IMG_9245a.jpg


This material doesn't stretch or flex, thus it does not bounce around.
IMG_9246a.jpg


Because the whole headband is Velcro, you can roll it neatly around the light for easy and convenient pocket EDC.
IMG_9247a.jpg


Or roll it a different way and turn it into a belt holster for your light.
IMG_9251a.jpg
 
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I really need to stop posting after working a 14 hour shift... "the HL30s do have a bit of a rep for breaking at the hinge, a member sent me to a thread on another forum with pics of it breaking.. " for the sake of pointing out that I ain't even close to perfect said "member" was bon1, the op, so I can only assume he had a good laugh at that.... The HL21 is the upgrade to the HL20, which didn't fit well with the headband, causing a piece of the light to break off or you could just do it yourself to make it spin better.. meh But most of what the HL21 is, is a correction to all the issues people had with the HL20
 
LOL. Don't sweat it Ezeriel. 🙂 It was your good intentions that matter! 😉

So I take it that I shouldn't have any issues with the currently sold HL21? Not even that "broken craddle arm" issue?

That's a pretty neat headband what you have there, Davidt1! Thanks for sharing it with all of us! 🙂

From past experience, I'm going to need a headlamp for two to four hours straight and, thankfully, I'm only going to need it from time to time. Since I'll have said headlamp in my possession, I'm also going to use it for things like hiking (I'd like to try hiking at night), home maintenance, etc. Being able to EDC my headlamp would be a very welcome bonus, but it's not a requirement.
 
For home maintenance I've had good fortune with the "freedom fusion" headlamp, though am looking around. Good flood and 3 aa on forehead. Not the most updated leds but I've laid concrete forms, fixed cars etc with no other light. Main thing is at 20 bucks is cheap enough to have them strewn around so is often one at hand. And I like that it's basically just one regulated workable light level so can walk around doing chores turning off and on constantly to save batteries with no adjustments. 3 years now heavy use no durability issues, but then it's not all on one light. Surprised haven't worn a switch out yet. Good tactileness on that, by the way. Simplicity. Good on eneloops. Would like to try that HL30 but maybe will wait till they fix the chinseness. Hope you update us Bon 1 on how it went for you.

LOL. Don't sweat it Ezeriel. 🙂 It was your good intentions that matter! 😉

So I take it that I shouldn't have any issues with the currently sold HL21? Not even that "broken craddle arm" issue?

That's a pretty neat headband what you have there, Davidt1! Thanks for sharing it with all of us! 🙂

From past experience, I'm going to need a headlamp for two to four hours straight and, thankfully, I'm only going to need it from time to time. Since I'll have said headlamp in my possession, I'm also going to use it for things like hiking (I'd like to try hiking at night), home maintenance, etc. Being able to EDC my headlamp would be a very welcome bonus, but it's not a requirement.
 
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Oh I can update this...

He went with the HL21, and I broke down bought a zebralight H502

As far as I know he's never been happier with the HL21, and I'm not all that thrilled with the zebralight



The HL21 has decent throw, and comes with a diffuser for up-close work.
It's low mode is good for most anything inside, and it's got enough throw to be useful outside.

The H502 has no throw, so whenever I want to use for up-close work I usually have to crank it up, making the low modes worthless.
...and there just isn't enough throw for it to be of any use as an outdoor light.

The H502 is also plagued by some of the worst quality control I have ever seen from a high-end light company.
Mine has metal filings under the lens, isn't even close to being waterproof, and looks like someone poured acid on the clip.

So the HL21 is the better headlamp.


I will say in defense of the H502, it is an excellent camping light, and it's perfect in a power out.
I kept mine, flaws 'n all, but I can't see myself recommending it to anyone ...unless they want the ultimate camping lantern.
 
The H502 has no throw, so whenever I want to use for up-close work I usually have to crank it up, making the low modes worthless.
...and there just isn't enough throw for it to be of any use as an outdoor light.

I don't get this. Why does throw quality have anything to do with close up work, and cause you to crank it?




I will say in defense of the H502, it is an excellent camping light, and it's perfect in a power out.
I kept mine, flaws 'n all, but I can't see myself recommending it to anyone ...unless they want the ultimate camping lantern.

If it doesn't have enough throw to be "useful as an outdoor light" and you have to waste batteries to use close up for some reason then why is it a good camping light? And what features do you want in a power outage that are irrelevent normally when working or playing in the dark?
 
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The H502 has no throw, so whenever I want to use for up-close work I usually have to crank it up, making the low modes worthless.
...and there just isn't enough throw for it to be of any use as an outdoor light.

I suppose that Ezeriel means that the beam is too diffused or too wide and not fitted to illuminate well a close area unless you use the higher settings. I have the same problem with other lanterns.
 
I suppose that Ezeriel means that the beam is too diffused or too wide and not fitted to illuminate well a close area unless you use the higher settings. I have the same problem with other lanterns.


Yup, the H52 has no hotspot, so if I'm looking at something small, at arms length, my Hypetac at 3 lumens is just as good as the H502 at 50 lumens

1 foot from the wall, the H502 is lighting up a 4 foot area, and at that distance the Hypetac's hotspot is maybe 3 inches.. so they are very different lights.



...but if your goal is to spread even light over a large area, the H502 is the king, and even at sub lumen levels it's a nice nightlight.
 
Ezeriel said it all for me, thanks buddy! 🙂

The Fenix HL21 is indeed one little great headlamp--no complaints so far.

I may give the Fenix HL30 a try sometime in the future, but I do not really need it yet.
 
I own Fenix HP 20, 30 and 21 and I am glad I have them all.
I probably made a mistake with the HP 20 but .... I have still used it camping to great effect. It's very very bright, diffuser works well (after sharpie marking the underside to reduce glare)
The HP 21 has a HORRIBLE diffuser cap.
I know the HP 30 has been knocked for its battery compartment but it works very well for me.
 
Sarratt, what is it about the diffuser that you don't like? Pray tell
 
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