Headlamp for trekking in cold weather

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Paul

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Dec 27, 2007
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I'm looking for a new headlamp to buy. Mainly I'm going to use it for trekking and biking, both in potential quite cold weather. In other words, an external battery case is very preferable. Also, since I'd like to use it for biking, it should be possible to detach the light from the headband so I can strap it onto my helmet. Basically I've decided to prioritize the following:

- Battery capacity
- Weight
- The gadget-freak in me also wants high power... 🙂

Unfortunately price probably also will be a factor, but I'll take that when I know what's out there.

At the moment I'm looking a bit on the PT Apex Extreme. I find it a very nice light, but the weight is a downside of it (not that it's extremly heavy, but it's heavier than other lights).
I'm also very impressed both the weight, capacity and power of the Zebralights (especially the new H60), but I'm a bit concerned about how the battery will perform in cold weather. Any thoughts on this?

Also, I'm very open for other suggestions so if you know other headlamps that might be suitable I'd be very thankful to get some ideas! 🙂
 
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I think with the 18650 of the h60 you will be ok till round about -10°C. Perheaps less if riding a bike. The special housing with cooling rips is nor really intended to be used in could wether i believe.
Though it should be quit easy to make an external battery compartent for the h60 and wire it to the connection points in the housing.

An out of the box solution would be the MyoBelt XP or one of those ultra expensive caving light: Stenlight, Scurion...
 
Shorty66 said:
Though it should be quit easy to make an external battery compartent for the h60 and wire it to the connection points in the housing.
Click to expand...
That's an very interesting thought. It would make the H60 a very flexible light. I'm not very experienced with doing such things, but I'm up for a try. The main concern that I see is how to get the cable to the inside of the light and screw it together. Thoughts?
 
i would drill trough the bottom and seal it with epoxy... insedie the light just wire it to the contacts. perhaps you can use an old 18650 light or something cheap from dealextreme as batterypack...
 
That would most certainly be the easiest. If Zebralight would sell me a extra bottom screw it would work out very well. I'm thinking that a possibility is to make a "dummy battery" (some cylinder with the same size as the battery) and attach the wires to that.
 
yeah, dummy battery sounds perfekt. that way you dont have to screw around with the contacts. An extra bottom cap also sounds good. Perhaps ill do that mod too... well first ill test the light performance... i never had any problems with my tikka xp at -20°C even though it used normal alkalines...
 
The new Eos bike light would fit the3 bill pretty nicely as long as you are buying a current 50 lumen model. The Eos may not be nearly as bright as the Apex but it can be removed from the strap and clamped on handlebars and or your helmet and it can run on lithium's for cold weather use. Take a look at Bright Guy as a supplier because from what I have seen, they carry all of the options available for this lights multiple configurations.
 
keeping the batteries warm inside a coat pocket or in an insulated pouch on the bike works. Recently another cpf cold weather bike rider suggested placing the battery pack inside a homemade (and lightweight) pouch consisting of several
layers of alternating spaceblanket material and plastic baggies. like how space suits are constructed. Folded shut to keep any cold wind out it seems like a winning idea.
 
A topic near and dear to my heart...

Here is what I'm currently using. It blows away my old 60 lm Apex. I use it for running sled dogs at night. It is a $25 136 lm River Rock from Target, gutted of the battery holder and the switch, and better heatsinked. Too many power connectors and cord from Radio Shaft, forget that and get a two prong weatherproof SAE connector from the auto parts store, $3. Tie knots in the wires for strain relief in/out of the headlamp, in/out of the battery box. Seal holes and the headlamp everywhere with RTV Silicone, also from the auto parts store. Battery box consists of a Pelican 1010 dry box from REI, $14. Two 2XC battery holders wired in series, Radio Shack, $4. A marine grade pushbutton switch from Home Depot, $4. The battery box goes in an inside pocket of the parka and and rests upon the thigh. You slap the box from the outside to turn it on/off. This is pretty standard for mushing headlamps. Check out tensquared racing for a similar setup they sell that modifies the Apex to this configuration. Very nice way to go in extreme cold.

dnaex001.jpg
 
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If you get an Apex you can make an external battery carrier like in the above post or use something like this with 18650s:

IMG_5644.jpg


I still use the 4AA pack and 2 cr123 pack when I want something lighter. I use RC connectors.

An older Apex is easily modified with a Seoul led for something like 100-150 lumens.

I still think the Apex extreme is a good option, but I don't think the 130 lumen version is out yet.

Sverre
 
NoFair said:
An older Apex is easily modified with a Seoul led for something like 100-150 lumens.

I still think the Apex extreme is a good option, but I don't think the 130 lumen version is out yet.

Sverre
Click to expand...

I think the Apex would be a better lamp to have set up with an external pack. The River Rock is far more flimsy and I worry the plastic will not hold up to extended cold.

I have seen the threads on the Apex mod to Seoul emitter. I need to perform that on mine. What I did was get something together in one day, with local sources. Not the best course of action.
 
huskyrunnr said:
I think the Apex would be a better lamp to have set up with an external pack. The River Rock is far more flimsy and I worry the plastic will not hold up to extended cold.

I have seen the threads on the Apex mod to Seoul emitter. I need to perform that on mine. What I did was get something together in one day, with local sources. Not the best course of action.
Click to expand...

My pack is also scrounged up from things I had lying around: 2 C-cell holders (sawed in 2), some flexible wire from an outdoor cable, some screws and a couple of connectors. Didn't actually buy anything😀

Your pack would work great with an Apex so if you use the same connectors you should be golden:party:

Sverre

PS! I think Pelican has a waterproof 4 D-cell holder for one of their headlamps that can be bought seperately..

http://www.batterystation.com/headsup2660.htm
 
Wow, if I'm reading that correctly, the 4XD holder is $8! Great tip, thanks Sverre! That would be a lot of Ah. I suspect/hope I can get the pushbutton switch to nest between the cells inside the holder. This is a feature I would not want to give up. No need to remove gloves to switch the power.
 
Very nice invention huskyrunner! slapswitch.
Bit envious of you, as here in san jose the drought continues. Walking at night
over dry brittle grass.
 
huskyrunnr said:
Wow, if I'm reading that correctly, the 4XD holder is $8! Great tip, thanks Sverre! That would be a lot of Ah. I suspect/hope I can get the pushbutton switch to nest between the cells inside the holder. This is a feature I would not want to give up. No need to remove gloves to switch the power.
Click to expand...

I read it the same way so it is probably worth a try. You could put a waterproof switch on the cable as well, might be easier with gloves/mittens.

I have free 18650s so I don't use D-cells (have those free as well..) because they are a bit on the heavy side..

Sverre
 
hopkins, it is a cool invention but not mine. It is standard mushing gear because under some conditions it would be injurious to remove your huge mittens or parka to futz with the lamp. You know, typically -20*F and you're starting out on the sled with the dogs going 20 mph. John Balzar writes about this piece of equipment in _Yukon Alone_.

I'm in the PNW and no white stuff here yet. We're still running on wheels.
 
Lots of nice feedback here, thanks a lot! 🙂
Just two questions about the PT Apex Extreme that came to my attention:
- Does anyone know what the flood angle is on spot and wide setting?
- What does PT mean when they say that the burn time is 30 hours regulated and 200 hours total?
 
huskyrunnr said:
I think the Apex would be a better lamp to have set up with an external pack. The River Rock is far more flimsy and I worry the plastic will not hold up to extended cold.
Click to expand...

Often I put the battery pack on the standard Apex under my hat and it seems to keep it warmer however not tried much below say -15f. I think you get some colder weather and running the hounds puts you more exposed than myself using a pulk. How is that Zebralight working out? Still thinking about it however want an AA without the twisty.
 
Hi Woods, the Zebra is a great task light. I gave mine to my son for his scout trips. For running the dogs, I want something bright with throw, with at least 8 hrs. runtime. The Apex is good, the RR great. The external pack is the real kicker. I'd hate to hump around 4C's on my head.
 
Yea i was thinking more about the 3-4 lumen low when inside the tipi feeding the wood stove. Don't want something heavy on my head when on the sleeping pad playing around with the stove. Glad to see you on CPF. Yea for the dogs throw is a good idea. Have you checked out the newer Apex. If it uses the same Rebel LED as the newer EOS it would be a winner with 130 lumens and from the LED has a warmer tint than the older one or most Crees for that matter. Might be better for running the dogs in the snow.
 
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