Heat Issue With Emisar D4V2

Regarding "Aircraft Grade" Aluminum:
Yeah, that's just marketing B.S.
Actual air-crafts are made from different types of aluminum.
Everything from rigid thick as hell, to thin and flexible.
Depends on which section of the aircraft, and which air-craft we're dealing with.
 
I quite like Ti lights. The extra edge in hardness and durability is what I enjoy with them. Granted, they are MUCH more expensive, but like everyone has mentioned, this is more due to them being so harsh on machine tooling.

I cycle all of my lights in and out of my pocket and I definitely notice dings and scratches popping up on my Alu lights, but VERY rarely something on my Ti ones. I'm not rough or harsh on my lights, but I certainly don't go out of my way to baby them either, poking them inside engines and stuff etc, and I notice a large difference in the durability of the Ti.

That being said, it does chip easier. Something that might dent aluminium might chip a Ti light due to being less malleable. Plus Ti is heavier by 60% or so.
 
I quite like Ti lights
I go back and forth about the extra weight.

otoh I like the pocket jewelry aspect of Ti.
I like that it is not coated with a different color than the base metal. So it doesnt show scuff marks, because they are the same color as the surface. And Ti can be repolished

I prefer full Ti lights, not mixed with a copper head. I dont want the extra weight, and imbalance.
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My lights dont get too hot because I use them at close range. Usually at less than 200 lumens.
 
i dont care about looks but as jon will tell you i love efiency and i love my lights to be very very small compared to the battery they use!!!!!thats my jam and love anduril
 
I put one of Emisar's pocket clips on the Ti tube and it left a small bit of a scuff. I guess not indestructible.
 
it left a small bit of a scuff.
thats why I dislike press fit clips, they will scratch anodising too

at least with Titanium, if you decide not to use the clip, you can resurface the Ti to erase the scratch (with successive grades of fine emery paper, or a buffing wheel...).. With anodised Aluminum, the damage can not be fixed.
 
thats why I dislike press fit clips, they will scratch anodising too

at least with Titanium, if you decide not to use the clip, you can resurface the Ti to erase the scratch (with successive grades of fine emery paper, or a buffing wheel...).. With anodised Aluminum, the damage can not be fixed.
They aren't too noticeable. If I ever get those things, I can see about touching it up some.
 
Yeah, it's actually terrible for making flashlights. Aluminum is lighter, significantly cheaper, much easier to work with, and great for dissipation. Seriously, the only reason companies even bother making titanium flashlights is because folks mistakenly think it's an exotic material that is rare, and thus very expensive. Nope. It's usually very expensive because it's hard to work with. It wears out production machinery at a much higher rate than other metals. That's why companies charge so much if you want Ti anything.

It's not rare at all though. Entire world's supply is located in China, and there's a massive amount of it. If you have a Ti product from Japan, that just means the raw titanium was imported there first from China.

Companies make flashlights out of Ti because they know customers want them!
Fun fact: Before the end of the Cold War, Titanium WAS relatively rare. When the Cold War ended, it turns our Russia has significant deposits, and had been hoarding it as a strategic material. Strapped for cash (since so many high level officials embezzled so much as the Soviet Union collapsed), Russia sold huge stockpiles into the market, and it pretty much hasn't been expensive since.


Regarding "Aircraft Grade" Aluminum:
Yeah, that's just marketing B.S.
Actual air-crafts are made from different types of aluminum.
Everything from rigid thick as hell, to thin and flexible.
Depends on which section of the aircraft, and which air-craft we're dealing with.
I think generally, yes, that is marketing nonsense, since they use a LOT of different aluminum in airplanes. Honestly, I swear it's just code for "aluminum alloy," which is hilarious, cause no one is using PURE aluminum for things in 2024, haha.

The actual thing to look at is if it's 6061 vs 7075, as 7075 is markedly stronger. Although, I don't think that matters a whole lot in flashlights, honestly.

For many gun parts, it's kind of a thing, despite most everything working just fine when it's made of 6061. 7075 is usually overkill, but maybe that's what someone is after.

Ironically, the arguably MORE important part of aluminum is the anodizing. Being a gun person, I sort of took quality anodization for granted, but the reality is that the surface treatment industry in the U.S. is absolutely head and shoulders above the Chinese companies. One of the things that REALLY makes Surefire, Malkoff, and Peak lights SO NICE is they have exception anodizing. I know some Chinese companies claim they do T6 anodization, but boy...it's not. I honestly don't know if they ONLY do T2, if they lie to cut costs, or if they just honestly can't make a real T6...but, it's not the same.

Even some of the nicer Chinese brands like Weltool have noticeably worse anodizing. It's interesting that, in the gun world, high quality anodizing is something people talk about, look for, and really appreciate, but in the flashlight world, it's kind of forgotten. It's one of the reasons people can drop a Malkoff and be shocked it isn't scratched. A top quality anodizing is a very, very hard surface, so it's very resistant. In fact, most steels will LOOK like they scratch a good anodizing, but it's the steel rubbing off ONTO the surface. Malkoff uses T6, Surefire says they use Mil-spec (T3?), and I'm not sure what level Peak uses, but there's looks beautiful, though I think it's likely a T2. So, even the "lighter" American anodizing ends up just being a lot better. But, that's kind of true across the board for surface finishing when comparing the U.S. vs. China (if you've ever done anything is a precision industry).
 
Not to go too far off topic, but Chinese Al alloys are made using a different standard than the US. The actual alloys are different, (in spite of common nomenclature other countries use) and they don't translate directly to any US/EU standard. The quality control is also more lax (laxer? ) than in other countries. In general usage it can be fine, but when it counts there is a marked lesser quality coming from China. It costs less but is less quality in every real sense. If it matters, buyer beware.

If the alloy is even slightly different, then the hardness/temper Tx will be different. If the alloy varies by batch (it does when coming from China because quality control isn't the same standard in their industry), then the hardness will vary from batch to batch.
Time at temp under accurately controlled conditions matter for strengthening alloys. ...sadly not to Chinese Al alloys tho. If it matters, buyer beware.

This isn't a dig at China in general but China's metallurgy standards.
 
I have never had any problems with the type of metal my flashlights are made of. They are all made in China, and they work very well for me.

I like the low price of Chinese lights and the rich feature set of Anduril (designed in California, same as my iPhone ;-) ).

Are there any USA made lights that offer Aduril UI?
 
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I have never had any problems with the type of metal my flashlights are made of. They are all made in China, and they work very well for me.

I like the low price of Chinese lights and the rich feature set of Anduril.

Are there any USA made lights that offer Aduril UI?
Exactly. I have many things made in China from chinese alloys. I have no issue with them. I'm not putting them under any duress tho. Heat. Chem. Mechanical or otherwise.
It's just that the nomenclature doesn't directly translate to western US/EU nomenclature, but they use it anyway namely for marketing I would guess. The US/EU is a very large market. Using familiar terms would benefit their marketing vs type/quality actually translating equally.

The marketing can be misleading if it matters to someone. The US does it also. Buyer beware.
Quality control only adds to any potential issues. The fail rates can be a % higher when it may or may not even matter to someone. If it doesn't matter, it doesn't matter. If it does matter, then buyer beware.

China is often able to manufacture metals of quality equal to the rest of the world and do it cheaper. Instead of doing that, for some reason their industry often sends less than, masked as just as good.

As for Anduril I have no idea. I don't have a light that is using that and don't have a need/want for it at the moment.
In a flashlight, I'm much less concerned with alloys it appears than some ppl are.

BTW, I mentioned this earlier, but I have a light that is made from Ti/Al alloy that is very hard. I'm sure that it was made in China as most of this company's products come from there. (at least did at the time) It's an old light that has seen a lot of hard times, daily for years. I use it as a novelty backup now. It is an LED but not very bright.
It didn't claim to be anything other than a Ti/Al alloy and to be stupidly durable. Time has proven it to be true.
 
For anyone looking for a basic scratch-resistant flashlight in aluminum:

Same advice I once gave a young literal Gentleman who discussed a gentleman's EDC gear. He asked if he was missing anything he could add. I mentioned a very small but functional EDC light with a very basic U.I. Something far better than relying on the fancy, traditional lighter he carried for being able to provide light. (Ironically the lighter was not for himself as he's not a smoker. But for social events when interacting with a woman who does, and might need a light.)

My pick was the Maglite Solitaire LED. Specifically the silver version (actually bare aluminum). Small, easy to carry in a breast-pocket of a blazer or vest. Drop-dead simple U.I. that is great for handing off to someone with you in an emergency blackout situation, if you happen to have a more capable flashlight. Useful on a daily basis. Uses a common AAA battery.

Emptying out pockets, it looks as though it belongs with the other somewhat fancy gear a gentleman typically carries. And, if lost, is easy and inexpensive to replace. Plus, bare aluminum doesn't have a finish that fads over time. That bright red Maglite is going to look pink after a few years of daily EDC. Scratches? Sure. But light surface scratches are going to be nearly invisible on bare aluminum. So, it'll look new much longer. Other lights that are bare aluminum without heavy, deep checking should behave the same way.
 
China is often able to manufacture metals of quality equal to the rest of the world and do it cheaper. Instead of doing that, for some reason their industry often sends less than, masked as just as good.
You might be underestimating the delta between what you can save selling a lesser price at the price of a better product in bulk, haha.

China has entire cottage industries of counterfeiting that run on that delta. The scale and depth of that mindset in Chinese business is absolutely wild. In many ways, I think it's understandable if you put yourself more in the mindset of America in the 19th century, when we had a lot of shady things going on as we rapidly expanded.

While I'm sure they probably could produce a correct alloy (or any other stock material), for what it's worth, I haven't seen a lot of examples of China TRULY being able to produce top-tier quality products in terms of finished goods. There's a reason the most advanced manufacturing STILL is in places like the U.S., Germany, Switzerland, and Japan - despite the very high costs. Institutional knowledge and workplace skill are very real things, not to mention people seem to make better stuff when they aren't living in dorms in the factory, with suicide nets outside the window, hahahaha.

Companies outsource to China to cut costs, so I'm never really surprised when things from China aren't super refined. It's par for the course. On the upside, if we ignore labor abuses, it's kind of insane you can get some impressive lights from China for under $20.

As you mentioned, for most use cases, the quality is "good enough" for the purposes. Most people just need a flashlight to stand up to their keys in their pocket, or a drop onto the carpet, so I can see why cost can be a major factor in buying decisions. I don't fault people for that, per se.

More on topic, I've yet to try an Emisar because I had been looking at one a bit back, but that model ended up having an issue with the software which required buying some stuff to reflash it with. That's just not the kind of thing that draws me to flashlights, haha. They always came across to me as "hot rods," which - while fun for a minute - tend to be really impractical and finicky. Every high lumen Chinese light I've owned has tended to get quite hot, so I never saw the point in buying them to "chase the lumens" if I was just going to have to reconfigure it to be a lower output light. I more appreciate companies that put out lights with lower, more stable (and honest) outputs - and I love eneloops, so lower, stable outputs are kind of my zone, haha.
 
I love eneloops, so lower, stable outputs
The Emisar D3AA works on Eneloops. The light has a new generation Boost Driver, with some of the highest efficiency ratings of any light I know of. The outputs are fully regulated, very stable at 250 lumens or less, with NoPWM. It also has some of the lowest firefly outputs of any light I know of.. Lower than Zebras and Lower than HDS.

Here is a review with full details.

It does not need a firmware update. You do not have to reconfigure it to be a lower output light. It works fine, right out of the box. And you get to pick the LEDs you want.

It also has RGB Aux lights that can serve the nightstand locator function of Tritiums. You can choose which color you want the Aux to display. And it has an illuminated button, so you dont have to feel around in the dark, unless you want to. The Aux and Button lights can be turned off if you like.

Here is one of mine:
NqTQoDd.jpg


Anduril has Low Voltage Protection, Thermal Protection, Low Battery warnings, and manual and automatic Battery Voltage check. There are also shortcuts to Moonlight and Maximum, plus optional Last Mode Memory.

The worst thing I can say about the D3AA is that I dont care for the pocket clip.

I invite you to ask any questions about features you might want in a light, to learn whether a D3AAl can fulfill your wish list.
 
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I'm much less concerned with alloys it appears than some ppl are.
You're not alone, as I also consider it; however I already have a favorite for flashlights, and between my own structural body parts, car, engine connecting rods, and most recent employer for 6 years, I'm pretty biased so I'll stay on the sidelines here;-)
I'll just say Al & Ti are both 'wonder metals', and they often need each other to be at their best. Note that some 6061 contains Ti for example, and of course there's the more obvious reference to the 'workhorse' Ti alloy 6Al4V.

I have no significant knowledge of metallugy, only of the systems/equipment/processes used to produce high-end hard alloy Al extrusions. I know almost nothing about the metals themselves.

This can be a 'fun' (and handy) tool. BTW: Do we care about thermal or electrical conductivity with flashlights?;-)

 
The Emisar D3AA works on Eneloops. The light has a new generation Boost Driver with regulated outputs that are very stable at 250 lumens or less, and with NoPWM. It also has some of the lowest firefly outputs of any light I know of.. Lower than Zebras and Lower than HDS.
I have an original Jetbeam RRT01 that has an output that isn't even usable. I can turn the ring just to the point where the emitter barely glows. It is fun to just lay in bed and barely turn it on and look at the faint glow!
 
I have an original Jetbeam RRT01
That is one of my grail lights, congratulations! Here is one of mine, with upgraded LED and Sapphire lens:
L3wNmrX.jpg

I have the Titanium version in my pocket as we speak.
Nothing beats the intuitive simplicity of the RRT-01 Rotary UI.
It also has an outstanding pocket clip.

Notably lacking in the RRT-01 are LVP and High CRI, both of which the D3AA has. The D3AA also has low modes as dim as the RRT-01.

Anduril is the closest UI I know of, to the Rotary UI. My love of the RRT-01 smooth ramping UI, is at the core of what makes me like Anduril so much.
 
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The Emisar D3AA works on Eneloops. The light has a new generation Boost Driver, with some of the highest efficiency ratings of any light I know of. The outputs are fully regulated, very stable at 250 lumens or less, with NoPWM. It also has some of the lowest firefly outputs of any light I know of.. Lower than Zebras and Lower than HDS.

Here is a review with full details.

It does not need a firmware update. You do not have to reconfigure it to be a lower output light. It works fine, right out of the box. And you get to pick the LEDs you want.

It also has RGB Aux lights that can serve the nightstand locator function of Tritiums. You can choose which color you want the Aux to display. And it has an illuminated button, so you dont have to feel around in the dark, unless you want to. The Aux and Button lights can be turned off if you like.

Here is one of mine:
View attachment 67937

Anduril has Low Voltage Protection, Thermal Protection, Low Battery warnings, and manual and automatic Battery Voltage check. There are also shortcuts to Moonlight and Maximum, plus optional Last Mode Memory.

The worst thing I can say about the D3AA is that I dont care for the pocket clip.

I invite you to ask any questions about features you might want in a light, to learn whether a D3AAl can fulfill your wish list.
Yeah, this one kind of intrigues me, except I'm just not a fan of Anduril. If he made like a 3 or 4 mode version, I'd probably buy it in 6 minutes, haha.

I'm also half waiting for a little more time to go by on that one, too. When I was looking into it, the first batch had some o-ring issues, and I'd found some complaints about sharp edges, so I might see if a V2 comes out, or a next model. I don't think he offers non-Anduril lights, but maybe he'll end up doing something like Convoy where you can buy either/or (12 or 4 groups).

Is this the one that has that interesting new regulation that someone from like a forum made...or something? Is this that one?
That's kind of neat, and I have high hopes for the efficiency, but I'm definitely not an early adopter for things (I don't like surprises in things that cost me money, haha).

I've also found that I tend to be shockingly biased for hand torches to have a mechanical tailswitch (which seems like a chicken and egg conundrum for me an Malkoff, haha). I have a Skilhunt M150, and I barely use it because of the sideswitch, while the Skilhunt E2A is one I REALLY love (simple UI with a tailswitch). I own a few E2A's, and I've given them to people, too. That's one of the best Chinese AA lights I've ever used, especially considering the price.
 
If he made like a 3 or 4 mode version,
The D3AA ships with a 7 mode configuration, that can be changed to 3 or 4 modes if you like. Yes, the D3AA driver was designed by a BLF forum member named thefreeman.

The initial O ring problem was resolved with a deeper O ring groove, and a thicker O ring. There have been no O ring problems, nor any other early adopter issues since that change was made, early on. All presently shipping D3AA have the new O ring setup.

I share your preference for tailswitches, which is why I often carry my Wurkkos TS10, instead of my D3AA. Here they are side by side:
sDvTDMD.jpg

The TS10 ships with 5 stepped modes by default. However, the TS10 does not have the broad LED selection of the D3AA. My TS10 has been customised to use Nichia LEDs. Also the TS10 does not work on Eneloop.

otoh, the D3AA is not available in the MAO Ceramic finish that you see on my TS10. MAO is even harder than Anodising, and has a better handfeel imo. The MAO TS10 is presently in stock, for under $25 shipped, with battery included.

There is no denying that Anduril has a learning curve if you want to change any of the default settings. I will be happy to help if you decide to try an Anduril light..
 
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