Help!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Daman

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Joined
May 8, 2005
Messages
3
Neeeeeed help, im trying to mod the leadlight 105, iv tooken the button off but i am confused, do i make the hole at the laser end or the battery/cell end?????
anny help would be brilliant!!!! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/help.gif
 

SuperBert

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Joined
Dec 4, 2004
Messages
233
the laser end... its best to take the entire unit out with vise grips or a bench vise, then do it that way
 

Timson

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Joined
Mar 5, 2004
Messages
526
Location
Leeds - England
Be carefull.........

I took mine apart with disasterous effect.
As I pulled the diode assembly out of the tube it ripped the switch and one of the surface mount resistors off the circuit board. Also pulled the battery contact spring and its mounting lug off the circuit board too - Absolute carnage. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/mad.gif

I think this happened because the green plastic bit that goes around the circuit and over the switch got stuck in the tube and caused everything to get ripped off as they were pulled past it.

Can't see any way I could have avoided this. Did it exactly as per instructions on the "how to mod your leadlight to 45mw" thread. Guess I was just unlucky with the fit in the tube.

Tim.
 

AJ_Dual

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Joined
May 7, 2005
Messages
691
Location
SE WI
If all you're interested at this point is trying a pot-mod, I would drill the hole first. If you still want to attempt a full disassembly for later stage mods, or you still can't reach the pot, the hole won't interfere. As long as you're careful, you've nothing to lose by drilling the hole first.

Many units already have the hole under the switch from the factory. Perhaps it's a modification for making final quality control adjustments. Or, if you take a more cynical view, perhaps it's an attempt at making the pointer more attractive to the wholesale modders. Maybe it was even done at their request.

Take an appropriate sized drill bit, and by hand, _not_ with a drill, carefully ream a small hole in the plastic that's under the button. As SuperBert said, place the hole towards the laser aperture end of the oval. The pot might be at a slight angle inside, and a bit further towards the laser end.

Wrap the micro-screwdriver you use with a thin layer of tape. If you don't, you can directly short the diode at full voltage because the metal case is part of the circuit. It might be very bright at first, but it will shorten the life of the laser significantly.
 

dudio

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Joined
May 11, 2005
Messages
5
AJ would you know how the pot lip be reput on? i have also made a seperate post about this. thanks
 

AJ_Dual

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Joined
May 7, 2005
Messages
691
Location
SE WI
The pot is really tiny, and I don't think that it's easily repairable. It's probably stamped out, glued, or micro welded by some huge machine in a Chinese factory that turns them out by the millions.

If you haven't already, I'd disassemble the pointer for better access to the driver circuit board, you've got nothing to lose at this point, other than whatever residual resale value the pointer has to those interested in bare modules, or the experimenters who might want to buy a broken pointer.

Then I'd go to Radio Shack, or your local electronic parts store equivalent (By your English, I'm guessing you are not in the U.S.?), and bypass the broken pot with another one.

I've not disassembled my own Leadlights, but the pot is probably single gain, single turn, being used with only two terminals as a variable resistor, correct? (Can any Leadlight guru's better aquainted with the driver PCB confirm or deny?)

Also, what pot specification would be a good match to replace the one on the Leadlight PCB?

Anyway, aside from getting the right pot, you should be able to wire the replacement pot where the old one was, or just piggyback it onto the broken pot's leads, and leave the wires for the new pot hanging out through the switch hole, (Make the hole with a drill bit by hand, if you're pointer doesn't already have the hole underneath the switch cap.) You will probably also need to bypass the micro switch with some wires the same way as the pot, and mount it externally as well.

If it works, it will be rather awkward, compared to an intact pointer, but a pointer with an externally adjustable pot and a remote power switch would probably seem pretty useful to some of the laser fans here...
 
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