Help, Im sucking at modding Blater JR Electrolumens.& switch question

Paul6ppca

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I put a seoul P4 in a blaster !D Got great focus and it is very bright,my problem is that the switch does not work with the P4,it was fine before the emitter swap Any Ideas on why the switch is not working? As soon as I screw it together it is always on. I'm stumped.I don't think the switch went bad in 10 min. The emitter is epoxied with AA and working so I believe it is isolated.So why is the circuit unable to be shut off with the switch???
Thanks for any help.
 
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Re: Help, Im sucking at modding

Solder is perfect.I think it has to due with a pos ground on this light,mabe Ill see if a star will fit.
 
Re: Help, Im sucking at modding

I emailed Wayne,he was very helpful,but Im having trouble getting this,

"The P4 LED base is not isolated electrically. That is why I anodize the heat sink. It might be that somehow the heat sink has a positive charge to it? If so, the LED would always be on. Usually the base is negative ground and will fry the LED. So, check to see if the base is electrically positive, using a voltage meter."

I used AA to isolate the led,so why would it matter if heat sink is positive?Am I missing something??If I put electrical tape around the heat sink no light.So what would anodizing do? Can I run an additional ground wire and where to?Hopefully someone can help me before I:poof:an led.

With it on ,no off, the beam is nice,no artifacts and pretty good throw.
 
Re: Help, Im sucking at modding

On the 2D blaster I got, the star has contact to the heatsink and body of the light (for heat and negative power connection).

I don't have a solution to your problem, though.
 
Re: Help, Im sucking at modding

Too much pressure on the battery end of the switch can cause it to stick on. Make sure that the switch contacts are not distorted where they enter the switch casing. You can dissemble the switch and straighten the contacts if they have been bent.
Norm
 
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Re: Help, Im sucking at modding

Too much pressure on the battery end of the switch can cause it to stick on. Make sure that the switch contacts are not distorted where they enter the switch casing. You can dissemble the switch and straighten the contacts if they have been bent.
Norm

Ill take a look,I think I will replace the switch.
Last night I put a lux III in place of the P4,same thing constant on.SO I am thinking a switch issue.Ill look into it futher.
 
Re: Help, Im sucking at modding; Blater JR Electrolumens& switch question

Has anyone got pics of the Electrolumens blater series switch?Or guide to ake them apart,Looking at mine I think there is a snap ring and a small allen screw.Anyone done this before????
 
Re: Help, Im sucking at modding; Blater JR Electrolumens& switch question

Has anyone got pics of the Electrolumens blater series switch?Or guide to ake them apart,Looking at mine I think there is a snap ring and a small allen screw.Anyone done this before????

The allen key size I use was a 1.5mm... The momentary switch on mine sticks on sometimes as well. I took it apart & cleaned it up with deoxit... it was badly built up with crude... will get some quick pics up for you.
 
Pics of the switch... after cleaning the cylinder (don't forget the INSIDE of it) & contacts, the switch works fine. Not I will keep it though. It doesn't look like it will handle 3amps. I'll have to test it a bit.
190186703_o.jpg

& here's an exploded view...
190186333_o.jpg


Hope that helps,
AZ
 
The switch is a Judco pushbutton switch available at Digikey.

http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T083/P2037.pdf

its a 2a 14vdc off/on switch spst, part no 508pb-nd for quick connects not wire lead Wayne used a wire lead switch in my Blaster

they have a 10a 14vdc as well. it might be the same form factor but you need to so the measuring. i just happen to have the 2a one on my desk from a elektrolumens 3d mod to a cree q5 i did. in my old green blaster he used a luxeon star so i had no issue with the mod. i'm using a deal extreme amc1735 1000ma driver so the 2a switch was enough.

switch looks different than the pic of the Jr switch above. it should be at digikey tho.
 
Notice how the bottom contact on the switch is bent up causing a gap in the switch case, this is the problem I mentioned above. The contact needs to leave the body of the switch without being bent up.
My switch was bent the other way but caused the same problem.

switchru5.jpg
]

Pics of the switch... after cleaning the cylinder (don't forget the INSIDE of it) & contacts, the switch works fine. Not I will keep it though. It doesn't look like it will handle 3amps. I'll have to test it a bit.
190186703_o.jpg

& here's an exploded view...


Hope that helps,
AZ
 
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