Help me choose a light....

[bluemoon]

Hello, I'm a bit of a flashaholic and so far have just been a lurker here but thought I would pick your brains a little. It's obvious that you folks are much more aware of what's out there than I am.
Here's what I need. I work a night shift and use a light every day to check inventory out in the steel yard. I have been using a Cyclops 2x123 with a mini xenon and am satisfied with the amount of light that it produces (about 90 lumens) but it was a cheap light and burns bulbs too often for my taste. I already am using rechargeable 123's so I would like to stick with them. I have gotten used to the momentary on switch of my Cyclops and would like keep that feature. A flood to spot adjustment might be nice but not required. Multi-power levels seem like a good idea but some of the lights like the Fenix that I have looked at seem to have a little too much. 2-3 levels are probably ok but sos, strobe etc...I just don't need it and won't use it. I definitly want LED and the new Cree stuff looks mighty appealing. I've been carrying a light on my belt for 10 years so as long as it's not too much bigger than a minimag size it will probably be ok. Any ideas? Oh and one other thing...What in the heck is a reverse clicky?

 

[Jarl]

It's a bit on the bigger side, but how about a fenix TK10? you can use your RCR's with it, and it has 2 good output levels- no strobe, etc.

A reverse clicky makes a connection when you click and release. Soft pressing at this point breaks the connection. Pressing to the click and releasing breaks the connection.

 

[Gunner12]

The Fenix is pretty easy to use and so are the Olights.

Reverse clickie is like this. "Click" - let go - light, soft press = Off, it has momentary off instead of momentary on. Makes multimode easier to use.

If you want AA and forward clickie, the RC-N3 might be good(the only 2 AA forward clickie I can think of off the top of my head).

:welcome:

 

[bluemoon]

Thanks for the reverse clickie explanation. That makes sense since I already have a light like that. I thought about a TK10. It has everything that I want but it is just a little on the big side to pack around all day. I have a feeling that I may end up with something like a Fenix P3D or the Olight equivalent (I forget the model) but I don't want to overlook something that I may not even know about. Is there a difference in RC123's? What is this "flicker" thing I hear about? I appreciate your responses.

 

[Gunner12]

RCR123s have different chemistry and are usually 3.0v or 3.7v. The T10, P3D, and Olight T20 can handle all the different kinds of RCR123s.

The "Flicker" that people refer to might be the PWM of some lights. PWM is how some lights create lower levels. It is done by flickering/strobing the light very quickly so it seems as if the light is dimmer(Minimal 60 hz, I've seen over 3000 hz on some). Some people are sensitive to the lower PWM rates and perceive that as flickering. The T10, P3D, and T20 use lower current for the lower levels, so there is no PWM whatsoever.

The Flickering could also be a result of bad contacts.

The Fenix L2T V2.0 or L1T V2.0 might be a good light for you. AA powered and only two modes.

8% off coupon at Fenix Store is "CPF8".

 

[Xak]

If your using 3.0v 123s then look into the Amilite T5, 3.7v look into the Novatac 120.

I have an Amilite T5 and love it.

http://www.amilite.co.kr/

http://www.lighthound.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=3461

 

[jeffb]

Amilite is a very good choice IMO, bright yet enough spill for practical use.

T5 left, TnC Cr2 SF right

 

[Hitthespot]

The TK10 is probably too big to lug around all day. I would look at one of the Olight T20 versions or the P3D. If I had to lug a light all day at work I would opt for the P2D-Q5. I believe it will work with a 3.7v recharge but you loose the low mode. Do some more research on the rechargable batteries if you choose the Fenix or Olight to make sure they work and work the way you want them to.

Welcome to CPF.

Bill

 

[bluemoon]

Well I had a bit of a mishap last night. I was jogging through the outdoor storage area at work and didn't feel my light bounce out of it's holster. I noticed it gone a few minutes later and retraced my steps and I found it.......had been run over by a 15000 lb. forklift (solid tires of course!) Sooo I need to put my next light purchase on the fast track. In the meantime I have a really crappy chinese knockoff tactical light to get me by. Thanks for the replies so far. You've enlightened me to some things that I probably wouldn't have discovered any other way. Now for some online browsing.....

 

[Gunner12]

Yikes.

If you want the light soon, the US stores like Fenix Store, Lighthound, Batteryjunction, PTS..... and the faster Chinese shippers like Dereelight, should all get to you within a week or two. Then if you buy DX stuff, it would take longer.

Which cheap lights are them? Maybe you will be able to buy current gen LEDs for them and modify them to a decent loner/beater light.

 

[Fird]

Dereelight with multi-voltage unit = sweet!

 

[bluemoon]

Well I haven't totally made up my mind yet but I was thinking of a P3D until I saw the Olight T20 Tactical. I really like the idea of "last level used" memory and the tactical tailswitch. I think it will be the ideal setup for my style of use and it is the same dimensions as my old one so it won't feel any bigger on my belt. I will need to get a couple more RCR123's though because I lost two of them with the light. But I still have two good ones left and the charger so for about $85 I should be good to go. I'll have to think on it a little more but I think that's what I'm gonna do.....unless someone has a better idea. Oh and my cheapo lights aren't worth modding. I might even do a torture test after I replace them.:devil:

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

I carry an L1D Q5 on my belt each day. It can be configured to come on BRIGHT or dim with a click. I usually have it set to come on bright, but then I carry at LEAST two other lights each day.

I LIKE the 1aa stuff as I always carry a bunch of Low Self Discharge NimH in my truck so a fresh cell is easily available.

The L1D Q5 is the best of all the 1AA stuff I've tried and that's quite a few lights!

A 3.7V RCR makes a P2D have only turbo. It also shortens runtime.

Good luck!

 

[Vikas Sontakke]

Well I had a bit of a mishap last night. I was jogging through the outdoor storage area at work and didn't feel my light bounce out of it's holster. I noticed it gone a few minutes later and retraced my steps and I found it.......had been run over by a 15000 lb. forklift (solid tires of course!) Sooo I need to put my next light purchase on the fast track.

This brings up a good point. Is there any light which would have survived that mishap?

- Vikas

 

[Jarl]

fenix T1 would've. Been tested to withstand 21,000lb's of pressure (on the head).

It's likely the TK10 won't be as good though, because it's not got the stainless bezel ring.

 

[Alero]

Surefire G2L? At least they would replace it if you get it destroyed!

It's very bright, lightweight, has momentary, is nearly indestructable, runs on your rechargeables, and isn't too expensive. Oh, and the Nitrolon doesn't freeze my hands in the cold. And it takes a P60 drop-in so it's hella easy to upgrade if you ever want it to be brighter.

I'd probably also give Lighthound.com an email or a call and ask if he's got any good cheap P60 mules on sale.

 

[bluemoon]

The injuries to my light weren't as bad as you might think in that it wasn't mashed flat or anything. In fact the body still looked pretty good but the head was sort of oval shaped and the lens and reflector were broken. The head could also not be uncrewed or the tail cap. I used to use AA maglights and would go through them at a rate of about one or two a year so I have a good parts supply of old ones in my locker. I decided to do a torture test on one of my mags that had just about given up the ghost and ran over it 27 times with the front tire of a 13000 lb lift truck before it started to bend and flatten a little. I was impressed. I think what got my light the other night might have been the uneven and rough part of the lot where it landed. Potholes and broken concrete so the pressure of the forklift probably wasn't distributed evenly plus the fact that most likely whoever was driving the thing had a full load of steel which would have made the total weight of the lift about 20-25000 lbs. That's a lot of pressure for anything to take.

 

[Gunner12]

The Fenix T1 could survive 20000 lb of direct force before is stopped working. The T10 should be similar.

Maybe that should be next

 

[bluemoon]

Well I just ordered a light from Battery Junction. I got the Olight T20 Military. It just seemed like the one to get. I think I'll be happy with it....I hope. I want to thank you all for all of your suggestions and help with this choice. After I get it I'll tell you all about it, if your'e interested in that sort of thing. And if anyone wants to mail me their T1 I'll be happy to give it the "forklift test" and see who has the toughest light