Help me understand the popularity of the TS10

vicv

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It can be configured to have as few or as many mode steps as you like. I set the stepped mode to 12 steps, homage to Zebra, except Im not limited to just 3 modes at a time.. I can ramp through all 12 steps easily, just hold the button.

If you only want 3 modes, that is also easy to configure. If you want the max output to be 90 lumens like an AA light, the ceiling can be set to your preference.


there is one more, the Emisar D2, which is really two lights in one.. mine has a Red LED and a DeDomed 519a 4500K, which produces a lovely 3500K beam.
No, I mean, can I easily replace the driver? That way I can run a AA. I presume from the thermal performance that the electronics are not potted.
 

Monocrom

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There are a lot of lights that are cheap, bright, and fun. That vastly out perform this.
I like the novelty that you can't turn the light off. You can dim those AUX emitters. But you literally can't turn them off using the tailcap switch. The ultimate flashaholic's flashlight! It never turns off, unless the battery is dead!

At night, put the light on its side, bezel facing towards you; you can find it easily if needed. Works best with the red LED AUX model. Plus, they're cheap. Why not?
 

vicv

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I like the novelty that you can't turn the light off. You can dim those AUX emitters. But you literally can't turn them off using the tailcap switch. The ultimate flashaholic's flashlight! It never turns off, unless the battery is dead!

At night, put the light on its side, bezel facing towards you; you can find it easily if needed. Works best with the red LED AUX model. Plus, they're cheap. Why not?
That is kind of neat
 

jon_slider

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can I easily replace the driver?
youre missing the point of Anduril.. if you dont appreciate that, stick with your Convoy.

> I presume from the thermal performance that the electronics are not potted.

potting does not increase thermal performance, its job is to protect a light from drops.

You can dim those AUX emitters. But you literally can't turn them off
actually you can.. just clic 7 times to cycle through the 4 Aux options, dim, bright, blink, off

and, the Aux mode can be set separately for Lockout.. I set bright Aux for lockout, so I can use it to see the paper roll in the bathroom. I set Unlocked to Dim Aux, so I can find the light on the nightstand.

The Titanium models have RGB Aux, so If I want Red Aux, I can.. If I want Green Aux, I can have that too..
 

vicv

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youre missing the point of Anduril.. if you dont appreciate that, stick with your Convoy.

> I presume from the thermal performance that the electronics are not potted.

potting does not increase thermal performance, its job is to protect a light from drops.


actually you can.. just clic 7 times to cycle through the 4 Aux options, dim, bright, blink, off

and, the Aux mode can be set separately for Lockout.. I set bright Aux for lockout, so I can use it to see the paper roll in the bathroom. I set Unlocked to Dim Aux, so I can find the light on the nightstand.

The Titanium models have RGB Aux, so If I want Red Aux, I can.. If I want Green Aux, I can have that too..
Wrong word. I meant the driver pull and mcbcp don't seem to have a thermal path to the body. It's not that I'm against anduril. I just like having the option of using a AA. But I can see that that would cause issues with the auxiliary LEDs. They seem cheap enough. I might order one. But they don't have any good stock right now. At least not the AliExpress store.
 

Monocrom

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just clic 7 times to cycle through the 4 Aux options, dim, bright, blink, off

and, the Aux mode can be set separately for Lockout.. I set bright Aux for lockout, so I can use it to see the paper roll in the bathroom. I set Unlocked to Dim Aux, so I can find the light on the nightstand.

The Titanium models have RGB Aux, so If I want Red Aux, I can.. If I want Green Aux, I can have that too..
I'll be honest.... Did not know that the AUX lights could be switched off like that. In fairness, I just twist until they switch off. Twist back to turn them on. I do like that the light remembers my settings.
 

jon_slider

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I just like having the option of using a AA.
What Im realizing from this discussion, is that I place Anduril UI as my top priority. Other lights can do AA/14500, for example the excellent regulated and NoPWM driver in the Skilhunt M150 and H150.

There is only one Anduril light that can use AA. It is the Sofirn SP10 Pro. I personally do not care for the host because it is a bit large. And most of all I cannot abide the switch button, which cannot be located by feel, I have to actually LOOK at the light, to find the button.. If Im in the dark, that gets old really fast.

I just twist until they switch off.
I do not recommed physical lockout on the TS10, because of the dual body tubes, the switch remains powered. IF the switch button gets pressed while the head is loose, Anduril will do a Factory Reset and any customised preferences will be reset to Factory default. That means Turbo will be reenabled, and Im absolutely against using Turbo. All the Aux settings will also go back to factory default. They turn on in Bright mode, which Im against, because of the high battery drain.

but, as long as you dont press the button while the head is unscrewed, yes, that does work to turn off the Aux.

Anduril is a very complex UI. It is best suited to the sort of person that is willing to read the manual so they have an overview of what it is capable of..

But, I realize not everyone is like me, and many people will just dive in, start experimenting, and then post questions that arise from not having read the manual.

Im here to help.. let me know if you have any Anduril questions ;-) .. Im going snowboarding, will be back online apres ski.
 

vicv

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What Im realizing from this discussion, is that I place Anduril UI as my top priority. Other lights can do AA/14500, for example the excellent regulated and NoPWM driver in the Skilhunt M150 and H150.

There is only one Anduril light that can use AA. It is the Sofirn SP10 Pro. I personally do not care for the host because it is a bit large. And most of all I cannot abide the switch button, which cannot be located by feel, I have to actually LOOK at the light, to find the button.. If Im in the dark, that gets old really fast.


I do not recommed physical lockout on the TS10, because of the dual body tubes, the switch remains powered. IF the switch button gets pressed while the head is loose, Anduril will do a Factory Reset and any customised preferences will be reset to Factory default. That means Turbo will be reenabled, and Im absolutely against using Turbo. All the Aux settings will also go back to factory default. They turn on in Bright mode, which Im against, because of the high battery drain.

but, as long as you dont press the button while the head is unscrewed, yes, that does work to turn off the Aux.

Anduril is a very complex UI. It is best suited to the sort of person that is willing to read the manual so they have an overview of what it is capable of..

But, I realize not everyone is like me, and many people will just dive in, start experimenting, and then post questions that arise from not having read the manual.

Im here to help.. let me know if you have any Anduril questions ;-) .. Im going snowboarding, will be back online apres ski.
Oh we know you place anduril as the highest priority Jon. Lol. (All in fun. I'm glad you like it) as I said, I might give One a try. They just don't have any good options right now I presume they sold a lot with the black Friday sales. No neutral admitters available. No fun colors. No orange auxiliary.
 

RWT1405

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The TS10 is popular as a light that is used at indoor distances, where I usually use about 20 lumens.
Then why make it a BS "1400 lumen" flashlight?

What a joke!

The floody beam works great to see things at arms reach.
Make it a maximum 130 lumen flashlight then

Most of your comments suggest your usage application is neither indoors, nor at arms reach, which is where the TS10 really shines.

I agree it is ridiculous to expect to use it at 1400 lumens.. thats just for marketing..
Then stop with the marketing BS

If they want to be accepted as a "quality" flashlight, then start acting like one

Again, this (in my most humble opinion) should be a maximum 130 lumen flashlight

The TS10 is a great little light for walking through the house in the dark of night, without waking anybody up.

The TS10 has one of the lowest firefly outputs of any light I own, including HDS.

My TS10 can sustain 200 lumens, just like my HDS.

The TS10 is definitely not the light to use as a weapon mounted light, for spotting coyotes on the back 40. And I do not like the stock pocket clip, I change that item.. consider it a custom modification.. lol

otoh, it is a very small and lightweight package. Works great for brief EDC uses, such as:

reading the ingredients on food packaging..

finding something I dropped on the floor, that rolled under the couch..

illuminating my way to the bathroom,

looking into the battery tube of another host in my hands,

illuminating the mcpcb Im reflowing and soldering back into another host,

finding things in the trunk, or on the floor of my car,

looking for my lost shaker of salt in my backpack,

finding the noodles in my food pantry,

finding the Torx driver in my tool bag, etc
Please explain to me which of these activities require more then 130 lumens?

Actually, which require more than about 15 lumens?

Suggest you buy an Aluminium TS10 from Amazon, and try it, indoors, for yourself. If you still cant see the appeal of a small indoor EDC.. just return it to Whole Foods for refund, and buy yourself some cookies and icecream instead ;-)

I could see the appeal, if it wasn't just another gimmicky, BS flashlight

"1400 lumen", what BS

Sorry if I find it hard to get around all the gimmicks and BS with this flashlight

I guess I agree with vicv
 

Ocelot808

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I like the novelty that you can't turn the light off. You can dim those AUX emitters. But you literally can't turn them off using the tailcap switch. The ultimate flashaholic's flashlight! It never turns off, unless the battery is dead!

At night, put the light on its side, bezel facing towards you; you can find it easily if needed. Works best with the red LED AUX model. Plus, they're cheap. Why not?
Of course you can program the aux leds to OFF. Just 7C from Off to cycle aux hi-lo-blinking-off.
You can also enter 5C momentary mode which bypasses all aux LED settings. Or twist the tail 1/4 turn for a hard physical lockout which zeroes any circuit parasitic drain.

....and cheaper than a tank of gas ⛽️

$30 (!!) For the Titanium-Copper or Blue Ti with battery til Nov 29th w discount code WKBF25 on the Wurkkos site. 4000K or 6000K 90CRI.

KR4 + TS-10
 

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M@elstrom

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Good morning. Not here to ruffle feathers, but I'm genuinely curious why everyone is obsessed with this thing.
It's a great looking light, I'll give it that. But that's about it.
I don't like multiple emitters. It just makes a floody mess.


The Wurkkos TS10 to be fair wasn't even on my radar but after seeing this thread my interest has piqued... I really appreciate Multi-Spectrum output lights and to find one in such a small EDC format is rather compelling, so thanks now there's another light on my shopping list 🤣

Wrong word. I meant the driver pull and mcbcp don't seem to have a thermal path to the body. It's not that I'm against anduril. I just like having the option of using a AA.

A very fair consideration, dual fuel personally has a higher priority than a UI... this creates mixed emotions now 🤔

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kerneldrop

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I saw on FB the bezel threads are identical to a S3....so one can put a single reflector should they want.
 

vicv

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I guess my biggest problem with this light is the thermal management. Beyond the fact that 1400 lm is ridiculous and such a small light and I would never use turbo, it tells me the light is badly built. I know it's only $20 but still. The fact that it goes from 1400 lm to 120 lm in less than 10 seconds is unacceptable. That tells me that the LED and the driver are insulated from the body. There's no way that it would kick down that quickly, if the body was able to pull heat away . Or it's a timed step down and it's part of the programming and nothing to do a thermal at all. And another is the safety concern which no one seems to be addressing. No one should be pulling 8+ amps from a non-high drain 14500.
One of these days one of those cells are going to blow up. That's over 8C.

I had a convoy S2 plus with a triple XPLHI. With a Samsung 20r cell, it would've probably been three times brighter than this and pulling 18 A on high with the H 17 get driver. And it got mighty toasty mighty fast. But it never dropped over 90% of its output in less than 10 seconds.
 

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