Help me understand the popularity of the TS10

jon_slider

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It may have the best emitters I've experienced.
glad youre enjoying the LEDs
here are a couple of my 4000K, at about 25 lumens:
IMG_5876.jpg
 

vicv

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that would be about level 15 and level 20.

I do set my ceiling to level 120 and thermal ceiling to 55C

Here is a data dump, I just checked a bakers dozen of different levels for you, on my Red TS10 4000K, w the battery at about 3.8V:
LevelLumens
1​
0.02​
2​
0.04​
3​
0.09​
4​
0.13​
5​
0.14​
6​
0.16​
7​
0.17​
8​
0.19​
9​
0.20​
10​
0.21​
15​
0.39​
20​
0.93​
120​
360​
That's awesome thank you. This kind of data is very helpful
 

vicv

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that would be about level 15 and level 20.

I do set my ceiling to level 120 and thermal ceiling to 55C

Here is a data dump, I just checked a bakers dozen of different levels for you, on my Red TS10 4000K, w the battery at about 3.8V:
LevelLumens
1​
0.02​
2​
0.04​
3​
0.09​
4​
0.13​
5​
0.14​
6​
0.16​
7​
0.17​
8​
0.19​
9​
0.20​
10​
0.21​
15​
0.39​
20​
0.93​
120​
360​
I didn't realize it took until level 20 to reach 1L. That's a lot of low levels
 

RWT1405

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Location
PA
that would be about level 15 and level 20.

I do set my ceiling to level 120 and thermal ceiling to 55C

Here is a data dump, I just checked a bakers dozen of different levels for you, on my Red TS10 4000K, w the battery at about 3.8V:
LevelLumens
1​
0.02​
2​
0.04​
3​
0.09​
4​
0.13​
5​
0.14​
6​
0.16​
7​
0.17​
8​
0.19​
9​
0.20​
10​
0.21​
15​
0.39​
20​
0.93​
120​
360​

20 levels to get from 0.02 to 0.93, what a complete joke!

Nothing but a play toy!

 

vicv

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Mar 22, 2013
Messages
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Location
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20 levels to get from 0.02 to 0.93, what a complete joke!

Nothing but a play toy!


Meh. It's a bunch of options you can choose to use or not use. Those sub lumen modes are useless to me, but if people like them and have the option so what. It's their light. I wouldn't get too worked up over it RW
 

Christoph

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Hagerstown,Md
Is there a glass lens in front of the optics? Mine seems to be showing some scratches after only a few weeks in my pocket.
TIA
C
 

jon_slider

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Messages
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"First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win." lol... haters gonna hate ;-)

Screen Shot 2023-12-07 at 9.52.53 PM.png

Is there a glass lens in front of the optics?
no, but you can buy replacement optics (not listed), here is the email..

caution, not all TS10 are easy to open, and it is possible to cause damage during disassembly, lmk if you need detailed help on optic replacement

do you carry your light in the same pocket with keys, coins, knives, or other metals?
 

RWT1405

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"First they ignore you, then they laugh at you, then they fight you, then you win." lol... haters gonna hate ;-)

View attachment 53841
LOL!

That is funny, I'll give you that

I get it, you want a cheap toy to play with, and that's great, for you

But for people that depend on their flashlights for work, that is nothing more than a toy

But you are correct, Haters gonna Hate

Thanks for the laugh!
 

defloyd77

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Wisconsin
LOL!

That is funny, I'll give you that

I get it, you want a cheap toy to play with, and that's great, for you

But for people that depend on their flashlights for work, that is nothing more than a toy

But you are correct, Haters gonna Hate

Thanks for the laugh!

Yes, I think it's already been established plenty of times this is more of a fun light than a ultra reliable light.

Leave the poor horse alone folks, it's already dead.
 

3_gun

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Messages
635
Anduril is a bit of over kill on a light that really has a useful MAX of 500L or so. On an IF25a those 20 steps are much more meaningful. But being Anduril you can make stepped ramping 3 or 4 instead of 7. The brightest regulated level is L6 in the default settings, I set it as top of the ramp, then shoot for a med & low level of about 120L & 20L, leaving ML as a shortcut. I set a manual on close to the 120 output. So mine works like this; shortcut to about a 2L ML, bottom ramp=20, 2nd step=120, top step 500[ish] & short cut to turbo set to level 120. I know how to play with the other settings (strobe,lightning,etc) but don't. I find set up like this it is a great little light with easy access to the levels I find most useful
 

Mike G

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The TS10 is more like $0.02 per lumen ($28 / 1,400 lumens), on sale more like $0.01 ($17 / 1,400Lm). An MD2 with M61 is $0.25 ($160 / 650Lm)-$0.45 ($180 / 400Lm) per lumen depending on flavour of M61 and whether you count the current sale (a far cry from $5 per lumen, it would cost $2,000+ at that rate).

Difference being the Wurkkos is not a 1,400 lumen flashlight for even a single minute... it's a 100 lumen flashlight (that's $0.17-$0.28 per lumen, sale and no sale, if you're still playing that game). It can give you maybe 250Lm for 5 minutes on a good day. The high output is pure gimmick.

An MD2, on the other hand, will keep the train rolling until the battery clocks empty. I can't comment on the TS10's build quality, but whatever it is, I can say that the Malkoff is tougher, too.
 
Last edited:

Monocrom

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Yes, I think it's already been established plenty of times this is more of a fun light than a ultra reliable light.

Leave the poor horse alone folks, it's already dead.
Let's poke it with a stick, and be sure.
Better test to see if the stick is pointy enough, first. :poke:
 

vicv

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The TS10 is more like $0.02 per lumen ($28 / 1,400 lumens), on sale more like $0.01 ($17 / 1,400Lm). An MD2 with M61 is $0.25 ($160 / 650Lm)-$0.45 ($180 / 400Lm) per lumen depending on flavour of M61 and whether you count the current sale (a far cry from $5 per lumen, it would cost $2,000+ at that rate).

Difference being the Wurkkos is not a 1,400 lumen flashlight for even a single minute... it's a 100 lumen flashlight (that's $0.17-$0.28 per lumen, sale and no sale, if you're still playing that game). It can give you maybe 250Lm for 5 minutes on a good day. The high output is pure gimmick.

An MD2, on the other hand, will keep the train rolling until the battery clocks empty. I can't comment on the TS10's build quality, but whatever it is, I can say that the Malkoff is tougher, too.
I'm sure the md2 is a good light. It's based on a bad original design for led, but a good light none the less. But it's a 2 cell tactical light comparing to a tiny AA light. Of course it's more capable.
As for the ts10. The 1400L thing is kinda a gimmick. But not at the same time I've come to realize. This is a very floody light and needs some output to see beyond a few feet. But I took my dog on a pretty decent walk last night with it. Since I've set the thermal limit to 55C, it can sustain over 300L till the cell is dead. That's not bad for lighting up the path in front of you. But here is where turbo comes in. If you hear something 30+ meters away, a quick double tap will send out 1000+ lumens. When you've seen what you want to see, double click brings it right back to 300L. It's not meant to be a sustained output. No one needs over 1000 sustained lumens. I routinely use 150L or less with throwier lights. So the turbo is for a quick burst of light before going back down to a sustained level.
Even at 350 lumens though, it sure does drain that small battery quickly. Only around 1 hour runtime or so I'd say.
If you want a high sustained output, a AA light is the wrong choice.
 

Monocrom

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Sure, no one needs 1,000 sustained lumens.... But damn do we want it! :LOL:
 

Mike G

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I'm sure the md2 is a good light. It's based on a bad original design for led, but a good light none the less. But it's a 2 cell tactical light comparing to a tiny AA light. Of course it's more capable.

If you want a high sustained output, a AA light is the wrong choice.
Tell him that, not me :)

55C at the emitter is hot, in my opinion. Especially on a cheapie Chinese toy light. They set the thermal limit lower at the factory for a reason... I wouldn't run it like that continuously.

It's true that turbo mode doesn't have to last forever, but I'd rather have at least a couple minutes worth of fudge room. You never know. It is possible in this form factor and with good heat sinking, albeit not at 1,000+ lumens I don't think. At least, not if you don't want to roast the emitter.
 

vicv

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Tell him that, not me :)

55C at the emitter is hot, in my opinion. Especially on a cheapie Chinese toy light. They set the thermal limit lower at the factory for a reason... I wouldn't run it like that continuously.

It's true that turbo mode doesn't have to last forever, but I'd rather have at least a couple minutes worth of fudge room. You never know. It is possible in this form factor and with good heat sinking, albeit not at 1,000+ lumens I don't think. At least, not if you don't want to roast the emitter.
Oh it wasn't directed at you, just expanding on it. 55C is hot, but I don't think it's that bad. I usually remove thermal regulation from my lights if I can. When it gets too hot to hold, I turn it down. At least on a light with a good thermal path.
As far as for a cheap Chinese light, the cheap and expensive lights all use the same emitters, and mostly the same driver too. The driver Malkoff uses is like a $1.50 buck driver in the m61s. They're all about the same quality of components and should all handle heat well. As long as there's a good thermal path to the light body. It's why I don't like p60 led dropins.
 

Mike G

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Oh it wasn't directed at you, just expanding on it. 55C is hot, but I don't think it's that bad. I usually remove thermal regulation from my lights if I can. When it gets too hot to hold, I turn it down. At least on a light with a good thermal path.
As far as for a cheap Chinese light, the cheap and expensive lights all use the same emitters, and mostly the same driver too. The driver Malkoff uses is like a $1.50 buck driver in the m61s. They're all about the same quality of components and should all handle heat well. As long as there's a good thermal path to the light body. It's why I don't like p60 led dropins.
This is true, but there's more than just the emitter itself in play. Heat gets around. If you've got something that generates heat, but isn't itself getting hotter, that means the heat is going somewhere - perhaps to something that shouldn't get (too) hot. Raise the emitter temperature, and everything else gets hotter, too. I don't think it's wise, personally. Even if it doesn't cause any immediate problems you're most likely looking at reduced service life.

Malkoffs have excellent heat sinking and thermal path. That keeps the heat away from things that shouldn't get hot.
 
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