Help! possible reasons my AW rechargeables wont work in my sure fire G-3???

SAVAGESAM

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Ok, I got my rechargeables in and......nothing. I put the 123s in and light works fine. I checked everything I could think of. I need help from those in the know. TIA
 

SAVAGESAM

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Which cells did you get, what size, what voltage are they reading, and what lamp assembly are you using.
AW protected li-ion, 17500, no idea, and a Bug out gear Cree Q-5 LED. I waited over 24 hours after charging to let them settle.
 

mdocod

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What charger did you use to charge the cells?

Please purchase a DMM so you can take voltage readings of the cells to make sure that they are properly charged.

No reason to rest LiCo cells that are about to run a regulated LED module, it doesn't do anything.

Did you buy your AW cells brand new from AW (or another reseller)... As in- do they have button tops?

You are aware that LED modules should not be used in polymer body flashlights for extended runs as the heat build-up can damage the LED right?

Eric
 

SAVAGESAM

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This is what I have in my light http://store.bugoutgearusa.com/crq5drmo.html and yes I have read that extended runs can cause damage but it works perfectly fine when I switch to primaries and I use my light for short intervals. Where can I purchase a $6.00 DMM? And I bought the four 17500s AWs directly from AW out of Hong Kong.
 

AW

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Please check all the contact points - the outer spring on the LED module and the tail cap spring. I have read many occasions that these two areas not making a complete circuit when using 17500s.

AW
 

mdocod

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Sorry about all the questions, I'm trying to narrow down where the problem is and get the easy stuff out of the way. As AW has said, contact problems are very likely at this point.

You can get a DMM from harbor freight for about $6.

I have heard of more people running into contact problems with after-market drop-ins when used in G2 and G3 lights than in metal body lights. The DMM can also assist you in trying to locate any such problems.

Eric
 

SAVAGESAM

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There is no spring on the module, just a small dab of solder (sp?) on the bottom. Any ideas as to why the primaries would work and the AWs not work?
 

mdocod

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that could be the problem, most LED modules out there have at least a center spring... For testing purposes, it's also handy to have a couple spare small earth magnets to make stacks of cells temporarily longer to see if it fixes a problem. (you can get a set from radio-shack).

Eric
 

AW

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The slight difference in cell length ( 2 x P17500 vs 3 x CR123A ) may push the module out a bit making the ground path from metal reflector to body ( metal connecting strip ) not in complete contact.
 

divine

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The BOG drop-in is very unforgiving. I don't really like how it feels with the stock twisty tailcap.

They put a half a blob of solder as the positive contact, with 2 resistors, a cap and a diode surrounding it on four sides. I don't think you could fit a magnet onto the + contact without shorting something out.

I'm pretty sure I read that someone added some solder to theirs and they thought it helped, but I don't really think it would help. It can use a positive spring.

I put two 18500's in my FM 2x18500 body with a twisty tailcap, bog drop-in, and 6P head... and it doesn't light up either. The FM body has something to stop the batteries from coming out the head, though and that could be stopping it, too.
 

SAVAGESAM

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Exactly what the above post says. If i added a spring it would more than likely short the board out. I'll order a P91 lamp when the funds permit it. It just bums me out to have spent that money on a BOG drop in and not be able to use it.
 

mdocod

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You can't run a P91 on a pair of 17500s, unsafe configuration, and the PCB would probably require double-tapping to light it up anyways.

IMO, just get a module with a spring on the bottom! Cost about the same or less than a P91 unless you "spring" for something really fancy:

http://www.lumensfactory.com/cart.php?cat_id=2&sub_cat_id=7

try the selected tint 3.6-13V module.

Or try the 11836 from DX, for $12 it's hard to beat.

Eric
 

mdocod

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I think any of his "L" or "LL" modules are considered fine for use in the G2 and G3. The standard module produces a lot of heat, he does not recommend running it in a polymer body light.
 

SAVAGESAM

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OK guys I've given up on my AW 17500s in my S.F. G-3, will they work in a S.F. 9P ?

For some reason (I think it's the B.O.G. drop in) I can't get my AW 17500s to work in my SureFire G-3. I've already spent the money and am wondering if I go buy a SureFire 9P will they work in it? I'm going to Lowes or the Rat shack today to buy a DMM. Thanks in advance for your advice.
 

kramer5150

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Re: OK guys I've given up on my AW 17500s in my S.F. G-3, will they work in a S.F. 9P

You need a pair of 17500s to work in the G3 or 9P... assuming the cell OD is no grater than 17.5mm. You'll also need a light module capable of handling 8.4 Volts for use in either light.

FYI...
3xCR123 is 3x34mm=102mm length, 9V
2x17500 is 2x50mm=100mm length, 8.4V

So length wise there should be minimal difference between the two setups.

Are you sure you are charging the cells completely? Does the G3 work with 3 fresh primaries?
IIRC some protected cells have a current limiting/protection feature and de-activate the cell to protect against shorts and excessive current draw. If you are using a high current draw lamp it might be tripping the protection circuit.
 
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