Help upgrade my UK Super Q

jtivat

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
2,375
Location
Grand Rapids
This light has ok output but I would like to see if we can get a little more.
The light uses an optic like SureFire's TIR and has a nice spot with no spill. They claim 90 lumens on a single 18650 and only 60 lumens on 2x CR123's which seems weird. Below are some pictures maybe someone can tell what LED they are using and recommend a replacement.

The LED should be very easy to change. Changing the driver would be easy also but not sure if driving it much harder (not that I have any idea how many ma it is at now) would be a good idea. The module is very light weight with very little mass. It makes contact with a metal sleeve but the head and body of the light are plastic. On the plus side in it's stock form the module only gets warm even out of the water after 30 minutes.

IMG-5371.JPG


IMG-5383.JPG


So any idea's???

Thanks
JT
 

jspeybro

Enlightened
Joined
Aug 13, 2009
Messages
586
Location
Belgium
the fact that they claim different outputs for different batteries is probably indicating that the LED is driven directly without a driver. I'm not sure which LED that is (probably one of the older 3W LEDs), but you might want to try to replace it with a Cree XP-E Q5 or R2.
On a single 18650 battery, I think you can still direct drive it. these leds give about 200lumen depending on how hard they are driven.

the ultrafire W200 lights direct drive a XP-E Q5 with 3 AA batteries, so that's 4,5V or 3.6 with regargeables. An 18650 is 4.2V when charged.

The part that holds the led and slides in the metal tube, is that also metal or is that plastic?
Can you show a picture of that part disassembled, or is that not so easy to dissassemble?

I'm a bit worried about heat transfer away from the LED when using an XP-E R2 or Q5.
Maybe first try with the SSC P4 LED which has slightly less output (176lm), but does't produce as much heat as far as I know.

On what is the LED mounted? is it on a star that fits in the holder or is it glued or soldered onto something?

hope that helps,
Johan
 

jtivat

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
2,375
Location
Grand Rapids
the fact that they claim different outputs for different batteries is probably indicating that the LED is driven directly without a driver. I'm not sure which LED that is (probably one of the older 3W LEDs), but you might want to try to replace it with a Cree XP-E Q5 or R2.
On a single 18650 battery, I think you can still direct drive it. these leds give about 200lumen depending on how hard they are driven.

the ultrafire W200 lights direct drive a XP-E Q5 with 3 AA batteries, so that's 4,5V or 3.6 with regargeables. An 18650 is 4.2V when charged.

The part that holds the led and slides in the metal tube, is that also metal or is that plastic? It is metal .
Can you show a picture of that part disassembled, or is that not so easy to dissassemble? The back will come off to show the driver but that is it

I'm a bit worried about heat transfer away from the LED when using an XP-E R2 or Q5.
Maybe first try with the SSC P4 LED which has slightly less output (176lm), but does't produce as much heat as far as I know.

On what is the LED mounted? is it on a star that fits in the holder or is it glued or soldered onto something?The LED looks like it is mounted on a small PC board then to another then to metal

hope that helps,
Johan
 

dom

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
749
Location
Australia Geelong
That looks like an XR-E P4
Best upgrade would be an XR-E R2 as that will
work the same with your optic,but brighter.

Same amount of heat as the original LED.
but more efficient.

Cheers
Dom
 

jtivat

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
2,375
Location
Grand Rapids
That looks like an XR-E P4
Best upgrade would be an XR-E R2 as that will
work the same with your optic,but brighter.

Same amount of heat as the original LED.
but more efficient.

Cheers
Dom

Thanks where can I purchase one of the XR-E R2's?
 

dom

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
749
Location
Australia Geelong
Cutter (AU)
DealExtreme (China) though you'd have to
sweat the emitter off the star.

Not sure of anyone else who sells them.

Cheers
Dom
 

The_Driver

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
1,177
Location
Germany
That looks like an XR-E P4
Best upgrade would be an XR-E R2 as that will
work the same with your optic,but brighter.

Same amount of heat as the original LED.
but more efficient.

Cheers
Dom

It should produce less heat since more of the used energy is converted into light. The efficiency says how much of the energy consumed by the emitter is not turned into (waste-)heat.
 
Last edited:

dom

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
749
Location
Australia Geelong
Hi Mate
You are right.
Extra bonus for the OP if he does use another
driver to boost the current a little.

Then he could have the same amount
of heat as original and much brighter :)

Cheers
Dom
 

The_Driver

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jan 6, 2010
Messages
1,177
Location
Germany
Hi Mate
You are right.
Extra bonus for the OP if he does use another
driver to boost the current a little.

Then he could have the same amount
of heat as original and much brighter :)

Cheers
Dom

Hi,
I disagree with you. I don't think it's always a wise idea to add more current every time an led becomes more efficient since the batteries aren't getting any bigger. I think runtime and efficiency (the harder the led is driven the less efficient it gets) a very important factors when building/modding a flashlight.
 

dom

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
749
Location
Australia Geelong
Don't have to disagree with me - just tell
the OP, as he was the one mentioning a driver upgrade.

No need for TOO much extra current,i agree.
The OP should see how he likes the better LED before deciding if he wants a new driver.

Cheers
Dom
 

jtivat

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
2,375
Location
Grand Rapids
Thanks guys new LED on it's way and we will see how it looks. Not sure how hard it is being driven so not sure what to upgrade it to.
 

jtivat

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
2,375
Location
Grand Rapids
Cutter (AU)
DealExtreme (China) though you'd have to
sweat the emitter off the star.

Not sure of anyone else who sells them.

Cheers
Dom

OK I have the new one how do I "sweat it off the star"

Also there are no wires coming off the new one where do I make contact?

Thanks
 

dom

Enlightened
Joined
Dec 22, 2006
Messages
749
Location
Australia Geelong
Hold the LED at about 45deg angle by the metal ring with some pointy nose pliers. Don't touch the glass dome as these can
sometimes fall off easily.

Use a small blowtorch to gently heat the base of the star in the middle -the LED should slip off. You may have to shake it
to help it come off.

To get the original LED off ,you may be able to hold the rectangular part of the LED with pliers and twist it off.
Maybe have to lever it off if it won't twist.

Mark the + position before taking it off.

You'll need some thermal glue to stick on the new LED -Arctic Alumina would best (from PhotonFanatic) - or you may be able
to get something from an electronic shop.
Or Fujik glue from DX
Whatever glue you get -make sure it isn't conductive

Clean the top contacts on the new LED
with flux and tin them.
Glue the new LED in place and bridge some solder from the blobs on the module
to the LED contacts.

No solder should contact the ring on the LED.
IF you have some plumbers(teflon) tape
you can wrap a bit around the LED metal
ring before any soldering is done to prevent solder contact.

The first post in this thread has pics which will give you an idea of
soldering in you new LED
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=189628

Cheers
Dom
 
Last edited:

jtivat

Flashlight Enthusiast
Joined
Jun 14, 2002
Messages
2,375
Location
Grand Rapids
Hold the LED at about 45deg angle by the metal ring with some pointy nose pliers. Don't touch the glass dome as these can
sometimes fall off easily.

Use a small blowtorch to gently heat the base of the star in the middle -the LED should slip off. You may have to shake it
to help it come off.

To get the original LED off ,you may be able to hold the rectangular part of the LED with pliers and twist it off.
Maybe have to lever it off if it won't twist.

Mark the + position before taking it off.

You'll need some thermal glue to stick on the new LED -Arctic Alumina would best (from PhotonFanatic) - or you may be able
to get something from an electronic shop.
Or Fujik glue from DX
Whatever glue you get -make sure it isn't conductive

Clean the top contacts on the new LED
with flux and tin them.
Glue the new LED in place and bridge some solder from the blobs on the module
to the LED contacts.

No solder should contact the ring on the LED.
IF you have some plumbers(teflon) tape
you can wrap a bit around the LED metal
ring before any soldering is done to prevent solder contact.

The first post in this thread has pics which will give you an idea of
soldering in you new LED
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=189628

Cheers
Dom

Awesome thanks!
 

beekeeper5

Newly Enlightened
Joined
Jul 18, 2010
Messages
161
Are you able to take a picture of the Super Q lens? I wonder if it's the same type of lens that UK Q40 eLED Plus uses.
 
Top