Help wiring DX driver sku 15880

[Codswallop]

Hello all, as per the title, I ordered a this driver from DX;
http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15880

and received this;
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/408/picturebl1011.jpg Chip at top left is marked J1HL.
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/8752/picture012yd.jpg.

Have searched the forum and I believe they are two different versions of the same. Probem is I don't have a Scooby Doo where to make the led and battery/switch connections. Ideally I would like to connect with a common ground as per my earlier thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=254412, but if that is not possible I should be able to work around with a different switch. Any enlightenment would be most welcome. Cheers.

 

[Fichtenelch]

+ on the r/h top corner and - is at the bottom l/h corner, both are marked (refering to your first picture, since your second picture shows the battery side of the driver).
if you don't connect the led to ground on the pcb, then the modes won't work in most cases.

 

[T0RN4D0]

You have both marked lol :]

Interesting tho that the driver looks completely different than the one on dx... :]

 

[Codswallop]

Thanks for the replies, but what I meant is where exactly do the wires go?. There is no solder pad by the + just the leg of a chip, also the - has only a blob of solder above it and a hole below. In addition which of the stars and pads on the back do the battery wires connect to?.

 

[gunga]

I got the same circuit, I thought -ve was bottom left and +ve was the centre?

I have not hooked mine up yet.

 

[Black Rose]

Interesting tho that the driver looks completely different than the one on dx... :]

That happens all the time with DX & KD drivers.

The drivers change but the photos on the sites do not.

I have some sku 3256 coming. The listing says they are based on a C310 chip, but the latest ones shipping are now based on the AX2002 chip.

 

[The Dane]

Here you go:

Sorry for the crappy drawings but im no Paint Shop shark:shrug:

 

[Codswallop]

Here you go:

Sorry for the crappy drawings but im no Paint Shop shark:shrug:

You are an absolute star TD, thank you very much and to all who replied.

 

[Paul Baldwin]

I havent received one of those drivers yet but it looks the same on the backside to this one. http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10243

1- 2-mode: Low(10%)/High(100%)
2- 3-mode: Low(5%)/Mid(30%)/High(100%)
3- 3-mode: Low(5%)/High(100%)/Slow Strobe(2Hz, 2 times per second)
4- 5-mode: Low(5%)/Mid(30%)/High(100%)/Fast Strobe/SOS
Note:
1- Face to the front, connect to the five stars clockwise one after one, then you will get 2 modes - 3 modes - 3 modes- 5 modes

If that's the case it loks like a really good idea 🙂

Paul.

 

[Codswallop]

I havent received one of those drivers yet but it looks the same on the backside to this one. http://www.kaidomain.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProductId=10243

1- 2-mode: Low(10%)/High(100%)
2- 3-mode: Low(5%)/Mid(30%)/High(100%)
3- 3-mode: Low(5%)/High(100%)/Slow Strobe(2Hz, 2 times per second)
4- 5-mode: Low(5%)/Mid(30%)/High(100%)/Fast Strobe/SOS
Note:
1- Face to the front, connect to the five stars clockwise one after one, then you will get 2 modes - 3 modes - 3 modes- 5 modes

If that's the case it loks like a really good idea 🙂

Paul.

Sounds interesting Paul, they certainly seem the same but I'm not sure exactly what you mean regarding the stars. Can you give some more details?

 

[Paul Baldwin]

It looks like each individual star is an individual output. You pick which mode you want and solder your led - to the corresponding star. That's how I'd try it out anyway.

 

[Codswallop]

Aha! I see what you mean. Scope for experiment then!. Cheers.

 

[Paul Baldwin]

Maybe someone else can confirm this I'm no expert lol

 

[Justin Case]

Looks like those stars connect to various I/O port pins on the ATMEL mode controller IC. Put your DMM on a star and then on the various ATMEL IC pins to trace it out.

 

[T0RN4D0]

Judging by the pics tho, 2 of the stars are directly underneath the big chip. So maybe its just a thing of connecting the stars together, to activate certain modes. Modes seem useful.

 

[Justin Case]

Pin 5 of the "big chip" (the ATMEL Tiny13A controller) looks like a trace goes to it, presumably connected to one of those stars under the controller IC. ICs often have traces that run under them.

 

[Paul Baldwin]

Judging by the pics tho, 2 of the stars are directly underneath the big chip. So maybe its just a thing of connecting the stars together, to activate certain modes. Modes seem useful.

Looking at it again that does make more sense. Using a jumper wire in the holes provided and a blob of solder between no2 and no3 stars.
Maybe it should read 1- Face to the front, connect the five stars clockwise one after another, then you will get 2 modes - 3 modes - 3 modes- 5 modes?
Guess I'm better with proper english than pigeon english lol 😱

 

[carbine15]

Grounding the far right star to the batt neg- ring will give you two modes.. Low 10% and high 100%. This is what I was looking for so I stopped experimenting. I hope this helps.

 

[Black Rose]

I need to take another look at that 3-mode driver I got from KD.

I didn't ground it to any of the stars, so maybe that's why it's only operating as a single mode instead of a 3-mode :shrug:

 

[Justin Case]

The star on the far left (closest to the first "N" in NANJG) is already connected to ground. I would think being a Chinese driver, this star is #4 (the Chinese read right to left, instead of the Western left to right). Thus, the default configuration should be a 5-mode driver.

Not sure why Black Rose gets single mode in this configuration. Did you solder LED+ and LED- to the right spots on the component side of the driver?

To get 2-mode, connect the right-most star (closest to the "A" in "112A"), call it star #1, to ground. To get 3-mode, connect the two right-most stars (#1 and #2) to ground. To get 4-mode, connect the three right-most stars (#1, #2, and #3) to ground.