Help with MTE P7

[rideandshoot]

I have a 5 mode MTE P7 which I purchased for a mountain bike light. It is nearly perfect.

• Its reasonably compact
• Med mode is bright enough and has the battery life I need
• high mode is, well its fantastic if I don't need the run time.

Problem is that it auto cycles occaisionaly when the going gets a little rough. I have already checked to make sure that the internals of the tailcap are tight and clean etc. I also put some tape around the 18650s so the battery fits tighter which helped alot. Is there anyone out there who's modified this light that could give me a suggestion? I REALLY want to make it work because the size and performance are exactly what I want.

 

[rideandshoot]

MTE P7 I'll post this here too

I have a 5 mode MTE P7 which I purchased for a mountain bike light. It is nearly perfect.

• Its reasonably compact
• Med mode is bright enough and has the battery life I need
• high mode is, well its fantastic if I don't need the run time.

Problem is that it auto cycles occaisionaly when the going gets a little rough. I have already checked to make sure that the internals of the tailcap are tight and clean etc. I also put some tape around the 18650s so the battery fits tighter which helped alot. Is there anyone out there who's modified this light that could give me a suggestion? I REALLY want to make it work because the size and performance are exactly what I want.

 

[Wiggle]

I modded mine to run on an external battery pack so the connections are soldered on and don't have this problem. If you don't want to do this to your light, perhaps some kind of spacer would push on the springs harder and reduce this.

 

[old4570]

Yeah , sounds like battery slap , its enough to change modes .

If the batt's a slap fit , just wrap a little Electrical tape around each end till its a slip fit . [ The battery ]

 

[jankj]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

I've read some comments on this. The light probably cycles because the electric connection is temporary broken when you bump the light. The electronics can't tell the difference between you pressing the switch and a temporary broken connection, and will change to the next mode. Could be the battery that is shaken, for instance.

You've probably done this already - but the first thing to do would be to take it apart and clean it. Make sure there is no oxidation on electric contact points. A little scraping with an old knife or a little sanding will clear this.

Other fixes could involve: If the battery has some wiggle room, then wrap some tape or something around it so it doesn't rattle. You can also try spacers between the battery at one or both sides. That could give increased tension in the spring, and could also possibly increase the area that is in direct contact with the battery.

 

[shuffles]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

Stretch the spring that contacts the positive end of the battery; that'll stop the momentary disconnection that makes it switch modes. Between that and the tape around the battery, mine is rock steady now.

 

[pushy]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

I've had a couple do this and fixed the problem by ensuring the electrical path from the head through the body to the tail cap were good. Anodising is not a good conductor so clean the threads and maybe some foil between the head and barrel and barrel and endcap might help.And if you want to make your P7 a throw monster try sticking one of these on the front of the lens. You still get lots of spill but a central beam that throws like a laser. Shed door is about 50 feet away f3.2 ISO200 2sec 55mm lens no ambient light.

 

[rideandshoot]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

Pushy...

I'm very happy with the beam as is because I'm using it on the bars. But thanks for the tip.

There doesn't seem to be any ano on the tail cap but the threads for the reflector end is anodized. Would that matter?

I haven't rmoved the led/cirquit unit. I'm not sure how it's held in there.

The positive side actually connects through a spring which doesn't seem optimal for a button top type battery. I've thought about ordering a flat top type battery but haven't yet.

The last ride was better by the way with tape to size the battery. It only cycled three times.

 

[pushy]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

Pushy...

I'm very happy with the beam as is because I'm using it on the bars. But thanks for the tip.

There doesn't seem to be any ano on the tail cap but the threads for the reflector end is anodized. Would that matter?

I haven't rmoved the led/cirquit unit. I'm not sure how it's held in there.

The positive side actually connects through a spring which doesn't seem optimal for a button top type battery. I've thought about ordering a flat top type battery but haven't yet.

The last ride was better by the way with tape to size the battery. It only cycled three times.

The threads being anodised should be OK but the end of the battery tube should not and should make contact with the led pill unless the pill screws into the top of the battery tube then it dosen't matter.

The positive end spring should not be a problem as long as there is a decent amount of tension between the two springs holding the battery. If not try adding a spacer between the tail cap and the battery such as a small coin or a small wad of al-foil.

Good Luck

 

[joe4702]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

I have the same light and had the same issue of it changing modes when hitting bumps. Two round rare earth magnets on the bottom of the battery solved the problem. I got the magnets at a local arts/crafts store (Michaels). DX also sells them. BTW, I'm not using flat-top batteries - using the grey Trustfire protected.

 

[DM51]

Re: MTE P7 I'll post this here too

I have merged your 2 threads, as cross-posting is not permitted. Please read Rule #9.