Here's what I want. Can I get it?

fhapgood

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Sep 4, 2004
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300+ lumens
not longer than 5*
$65
everything else -- like batteries -- is flexible
 

Derek Dean

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I don't have this, but after reading the sales thread on CPFMP I'm seriously considering it:
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-246/***NEW***-ShiningBeam-S-dsh-mini-Neutral/Detail

Probably very close to 300 lumens out the front (not quite), and from what I read you can actually run the S-Mini for extended periods on high. Most of my reading about the Xeno light shows that you can only use the high modes (even medium on a 14500 lithium-ion cell) for short periods before the light starts getting quite hot (please correct me if I'm wrong :)).

Here is the original sales thread for the S-Mini:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...***-ShiningBeam-S-mini-XP-G-R5-LED-Flashlight
 

aimxplode

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I don't have this, but after reading the sales thread on CPFMP I'm seriously considering it:
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-246/***NEW***-ShiningBeam-S-dsh-mini-Neutral/Detail

Probably very close to 300 lumens out the front (not quite), and from what I read you can actually run the S-Mini for extended periods on high. Most of my reading about the Xeno light shows that you can only use the high modes (even medium on a 14500 lithium-ion cell) for short periods before the light starts getting quite hot (please correct me if I'm wrong :)).

Here is the original sales thread for the S-Mini:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/sh...***-ShiningBeam-S-mini-XP-G-R5-LED-Flashlight

I have neither, but I have ordered with Bryan from Shiningbeam before. Great customer service, would definitely recommend them.
 

EZO

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Vermont, USA
300+ lumens
not longer than 5*
$65
everything else -- like batteries -- is flexible
Five inches? I'm not sure what the asterisk indicates ...

However if it is indeed five inches...how about something like this http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?id=201&s=41&t=LF

I recently obtained the Solarforce L2m with XM-L 820 Lumen drop-in & S7 Tactical Switch mentioned by lightfooted and it quickly became my (for now, anyway) favorite light. This "mini" 6P ("3P") dramatically exceeds fhapgood's requirements at $37.99. It's even shorter at just over 4 inches. Add a 16340 and you are still under budget! It's a bargain.
 
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fhapgood

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The asterisk was supposed to be a double quote. A typo on my part.

What does "DIY combination" mean? That this is a kit? This could be a problem for me, since I am no engineer. How simple would assembly be?
 

LEDninja

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Hamilton Canada
What does "DIY combination" mean? That this is a kit? This could be a problem for me, since I am no engineer. How simple would assembly be?
The Solarforce is a modular light. You buy a body and an LED module. You can get 2AA, 3AAA, 18650/2*CR123 bodies. The LED modules come with different LEDs XRE, XPG, P7, MCE, XML and different modes 1, 3, 5.
Or you can buy the light pre-assembled. I believe the unit in the link by lightfooted is already assembled.
You just unscrew the front bezel, push the module in, and screw the bezel back on. Some body/module combinations require you remove the outer spring from the module before they will fit. For the higher powered modules XPG, P7, MCE, XML it is advisable to wrap the module in aluminum foil to provide an additional heat path from the LED to the body. 2AA won't give you 300 lumens.
The Solarforce is one of the Surefire P60 clones. In theory any P60 style module should fit any P60 style body but in actually not always.
For a list of modules:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?217252-P60-sized-led-drop-ins-(part-3)
For a list of bodies
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?186661-*-P60-Flashlight-List-host

EDIT
The P60 bezels are 1.25" Ø which makes it a lot less pocketable than a 1AA light at 0.8" Ø. But as already mentioned a 1AA sized light (Xeno E03 XML) can not handle the heat with a 14500 Li-ion. It will handle the heat from a 1AA NiCd but give you only 200 lumens.
 
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EZO

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The asterisk was supposed to be a double quote. A typo on my part.

What does "DIY combination" mean? That this is a kit? This could be a problem for me, since I am no engineer. How simple would assembly be?

DIY of course, means "Do It Yourself". DIY can mean anything from making your own flashlight from scratch to assembling the already available parts you would like to use in your light.

I can understand your confusion here with the way Solarforce describes the L2m as a DIY combination. All it means is that they'll send you the flashlight head, body and switch (host) in one blister package and the XML-T6 P60 type drop-in (bulb as Solarforce calls it or module) in another and all you need to do is insert the drop-in module into the flashlight head and screw it together. Then just install a battery and you are good to go. The Solarforce L2m light I recommended is available as a combination with this particular emitter drop-in module but is also available as a plain host by itself and you could simply buy and insert any other compatible P60 type emitter drop-in module you wish, not necessarily a Solarforce brand or an XML. Most will fit. The beauty of Solarforce lights like this and any others brands that are "lego-able" is that you can swap the individual components for other components such as different lengths or types of battery tubes, tail cap switches or flashlight heads.

No engineering involved other than the knowledge of your battery voltage when selecting which P60 drop-in module you wish to purchase and the ability to unscrew and screw the flashlight components.
 
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jbdan

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I just got a Lumapower Incendio v3+ from Battery Junction it's about 3" and on RCR is really close to pulling 300lms otf to my eyes. On cr123 it's about 180 or so I believe. I got the Neutral tint and it's nice. No strobe or SOS just 4 levels and a simple one handed UI with memory and rear tactical switch. It's South of your $65
 

fhapgood

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The Solarforce flashlight under discussion is often labelled as follows:

"Solarforce L2m with XM-L 820 Lumen drop-in & S7 Tactical Switch"

The lumen rating makes my eyes bug out. 820 lumens!!!! Can this be right?
On a 4" device???? Has the technology really raced ahead that far, that fast??
Or am I missing something? Am I really being promised a light that will
push 820 lumens out the front end???
 

bstrickler

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Tucson, Arizona
The lumen rating makes my eyes bug out. 820 lumens!!!! Can this be right?
On a 4" device???? Has the technology really raced ahead that far, that fast??
Or am I missing something? Am I really being promised a light that will
push 820 lumens out the front end???

Highly doubtful it will put 820 OTF. 820 emitter lumens, maybe. Probably closer to 500 with an IMR, if driven at 2.8 or 3 amps. With an RCR123, don't expect anything. You'll trip the protection circuit in a decent battery (like AW's batteries).

~Brian
 

EZO

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Well, certainly not 820 lumens but this thing packs a punch. It is BRIGHT!...... floody but really throws too. It also has a very pleasing warmish tint. I'm running mine with an S9 switch with the SS tail bezel removed for now and I really like it. Here's a photo. I like how this light fits and feels in the hand, how it fits into a cargo pocket and that it is a veritable pocket rocket running on a 16340.
 
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fhapgood

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> Highly doubtful it will put 820 OTF. 820 emitter lumens, maybe. Probably closer to 500 ...

When you say "With an RCR123, don't expect anything," what's "anything"? I'd be perfectly happy with
300 lumens and delighted with 350. I'd get that, wouldn't I? So far as batteries go I was planning on
using a CR123a. That's the battery Solarforce says to use (The description on their website says "Run
by 1 pc CR123A 3.0v or 3.7v~"). But since I am happy to buy batteries online I can buy anything I like.
Does it matter which I get for this device? And if I stick with a CR123a should I get a 3.0v or a 3.7v???
 

bstrickler

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> Highly doubtful it will put 820 OTF. 820 emitter lumens, maybe. Probably closer to 500 ...

When you say "With an RCR123, don't expect anything," what's "anything"? I'd be perfectly happy with
300 lumens and delighted with 350. I'd get that, wouldn't I? So far as batteries go I was planning on
using a CR123a. That's the battery Solarforce says to use (The description on their website says "Run
by 1 pc CR123A 3.0v or 3.7v~"). But since I am happy to buy batteries online I can buy anything I like.
Does it matter which I get for this device? And if I stick with a CR123a should I get a 3.0v or a 3.7v???

If it's drawing 2.8 amps from the battery, you'll trip the protection circuit for the battery before it has a chance to light. If it's just running a linear driver (I.E. 7135 driver), then you'll be runing with a lower output, due to the internal resistance of the battery. You will also be driving the battery hard, which kills its lifespan. Don't bother with Trustfire/Ultrafire RCR123's. When I had a batch of those, I was lucky if they lasted anywhere between 2 and 5 minutes in turbo mode on my AA Quark (700mA to the LED on turbo), before tripping the circuit. AW Li-Ion's are the way to go. Only Li-Ion batteries I will buy anymore. The RCR123's will run you about $7/pop before shipping, but if you live in the US, expect about $2-$4 for shipping up to like 8 batteries.

I would get a 3.7V Li-Ion, because if it is a linear regulator, a 3v battery (primary CR123, or one of the specialized RCR123's) will last you maybe 2 minutes, due to the battery's voltage rapidly dropping below the LED's forward voltage.

~Brian
 

EZO

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Vermont, USA
> Highly doubtful it will put 820 OTF. 820 emitter lumens, maybe. Probably closer to 500 ...

When you say "With an RCR123, don't expect anything," what's "anything"? I'd be perfectly happy with
300 lumens and delighted with 350. I'd get that, wouldn't I? So far as batteries go I was planning on
using a CR123a. That's the battery Solarforce says to use (The description on their website says "Run
by 1 pc CR123A 3.0v or 3.7v~"). But since I am happy to buy batteries online I can buy anything I like.
Does it matter which I get for this device? And if I stick with a CR123a should I get a 3.0v or a 3.7v???
If it's drawing 2.8 amps from the battery, you'll trip the protection circuit for the battery before it has a chance to light. If it's just running a linear driver (I.E. 7135 driver), then you'll be runing with a lower output, due to the internal resistance of the battery. You will also be driving the battery hard, which kills its lifespan. Don't bother with Trustfire/Ultrafire RCR123's. When I had a batch of those, I was lucky if they lasted anywhere between 2 and 5 minutes in turbo mode on my AA Quark (700mA to the LED on turbo), before tripping the circuit. AW Li-Ion's are the way to go. Only Li-Ion batteries I will buy anymore. The RCR123's will run you about $7/pop before shipping, but if you live in the US, expect about $2-$4 for shipping up to like 8 batteries.

I would get a 3.7V Li-Ion, because if it is a linear regulator, a 3v battery (primary CR123, or one of the specialized RCR123's) will last you maybe 2 minutes, due to the battery's voltage rapidly dropping below the LED's forward voltage.

~Brian

I appreciate and understand your technical explanation bstrickler but my practical experience has been otherwise.

I have been happily running this light for almost a month now on a (white) Trustfire 16340 880mHa 3.6 volt Li-ion with a recharge every couple of days depending on usage. I don't know what the emitter is throwing OTF but it is BRIGHT! The light has been in daily use sometimes for relatively long intervals and I have had no issues with overall runtimes. I haven't done any testing but I'll make a wild guess and say I could get maybe 30 minutes or perhaps more. The emitter will get hot and I don't want to push it that much....copper foil will be added around the module soon, so perhaps I'll see then about just letting it run 'til protection kicks in.

I don't disagree about AWs. I own some in different sizes but not 16340s at the moment. My experience with Trustfires and blue Ultrafires has been quite positive so far but I buy them knowing what I am buying. It could be that I could lose life expectancy on the Trustfire but so far so good and it was already a well used battery when I started and they are pretty cheap.

Not sure how your calculations jibe with my experience but that's what's happening. Perhaps there are other factors, such as Solarforce's driver design and high amperage switches. (The S7 switch that ships with this light will handle over 5 amps.) I have a basic grasp of these issues but am still learning. When I have time to put a multimeter on this thing perhaps I'll report back with some numbers.
 
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