High CRI in Dinotte 400L?

[cm_mtb]

It looks to me like there are two SSC P4's in my 400L. I'm wondering if it would be possible to pull out the "pure" white LEDs and replace them with the high CRI P4.

The specs on Seoul's website appear more or less identical, although I admit I don't know what some of the numbers are referring to. Does that mean that I could swap LEDs without having to make changes to the other electronics? Also, the 400L uses an optic, so are the different P4's the same dimensionally?

If the LED swap I described is possible, would it be as simple as removing the current LEDs and soldering in the new ones?

edit: this is a P4, right?

edit #2: Alternatively, what about using a neutral XP-G and a different optic... are there any optics or reflectors that I could drop into the 400L? Two XP-G's could potentially be a lot brighter than two high CRI P4's.

 

[cm_mtb]

Anyone?

 

[BrianMc]

I assume you pulled up the spec sheets on the Seoul site and confirmed your LED looks the same?

You can list the specs here for both and ask for clarification about what the differences mean.

Have you searched in CPF for P4 threads (they will be older)? I am not sure about the soldering as to whether thermal paste under the thermal pad is enough or if the leads and the thermal pad need to be soldered.

If just the leads, it is a swap out. Hone your soldering skills and have at it.

As to swapping in an XP-G you WILL need different optics. Also the Vf of two XP-Gs at the drive current versus two P4's need to be considered, also the XP-G's are soldered onto their stars. Is there room for a 10 mm round MCPCB where the P$ was (not likely). If not you are talking gutting the light. Maybe just sell it after you build what you want.

 

[cm_mtb]

I assume you pulled up the spec sheets on the Seoul site and confirmed your LED looks the same?

I did. The P4 is pretty distinctive, too, and I didn't see anything else like it in the CPF LED Index.

You can list the specs here for both and ask for clarification about what the differences mean.

I assume I have the older P4 since my light is almost 2 years old. Comparing the older pure white to the latest high CRI P4, the two differences appear to be in the view angle and the forward voltage. The view angle for the old pure white is 127 deg, and 124 deg for the high CRI. The forward voltage for the old pure white is 3.25V, and 3.3V for the high CRI. The forward current is the same, though. Are either of these differences significant?

Have you searched in CPF for P4 threads (they will be older)? I am not sure about the soldering as to whether thermal paste under the thermal pad is enough or if the leads and the thermal pad need to be soldered.

I've done some search work, but am unsure what exactly to search for. Can you please elaborate on what you mean in the second sentence? I'm confused as to what you mean by soldering the thermal pad... I'm not completely sure what a thermal pad is. Is it part of the LED or a separate component?

As to swapping in an XP-G you WILL need different optics. Also the Vf of two XP-Gs at the drive current versus two P4's need to be considered, also the XP-G's are soldered onto their stars. Is there room for a 10 mm round MCPCB where the P$ was (not likely). If not you are talking gutting the light. Maybe just sell it after you build what you want.

Alright, I figured it would fairly complicated. It's not worth it to me to completely gut the light; I'm just looking for a reasonably simple way to get rid of the purple tint.

Thanks for your help, and sorry for all the noob questions.

 

[BrianMc]

I did. The P4 is pretty distinctive, too, and I didn't see anything else like it in the CPF LED Index.

Works for me.

I assume I have the older P4 since my light is almost 2 years old. Comparing the older pure white to the latest high CRI P4, the two differences appear to be in the view angle and the forward voltage. The view angle for the old pure white is 127 deg, and 124 deg for the high CRI. The forward voltage for the old pure white is 3.25V, and 3.3V for the high CRI. The forward current is the same, though. Are either of these differences significant?

No. Individual LEDs can vary more than that. The specs are a mean. Production gets tighter over time.

I've done some search work, but am unsure what exactly to search for. Can you please elaborate on what you mean in the second sentence? I'm confused as to what you mean by soldering the thermal pad... I'm not completely sure what a thermal pad is. Is it part of the LED or a separate component?

On some LEDs you dont' have the legs sticking out, but + & - electrical contact pads on the bottone between those, is a thermal pad with vias to the LED junction to move heat out of the LED. With separate legs for soldering to circuit boards, I'm guessing that the P4 can get away with thermal paste like my Red Luxeon, but it is moving way more heat. The Specs sheet or application literature should tell you or older threads in the LED section from when the P4 was the latest thing. Before I started here. If it has to be soldered to get the heat out, it wil be in one or both places. Maybe someone reading this can save you some time and post.

Alright, I figured it would fairly complicated. It's not worth it to me to completely gut the light; I'm just looking for a reasonably simple way to get rid of the purple tint. Thanks for your help, and sorry for all the noob questions.

A straight swap would do it. If all you need do is solder the two leads, a little soldering practice and you can do it. DI you look on MTBR to see if someone else modded this light?

Yeah, purple's not too good. I am not far from a noob, and hoped someone else would help you. :welcome:

 

[cm_mtb]

Works for me.



No. Individual LEDs can vary more than that. The specs are a mean. Production gets tighter over time.

Great. Thanks!



On some LEDs you dont' have the legs sticking out, but + & - electrical contact pads on the bottone between those, is a thermal pad with vias to the LED junction to move heat out of the LED. With separate legs for soldering to circuit boards, I'm guessing that the P4 can get away with thermal paste like my Red Luxeon, but it is moving way more heat. The Specs sheet or application literature should tell you or older threads in the LED section from when the P4 was the latest thing. Before I started here. If it has to be soldered to get the heat out, it wil be in one or both places. Maybe someone reading this can save you some time and post.

Ok, I understand now. In this thread, wasBlinded used a combination of ceramic epoxy and thermal compound in pace of a thermal pad which was in his Stenlight before he modded it to a P4. So it looks like the P4 does need some type of termal pad or paste under the led.




A straight swap would do it. If all you need do is solder the two leads, a little soldering practice and you can do it. DI you look on MTBR to see if someone else modded this light?

I have searched MTBR and was unable to find any 400l mods.

Yeah, purple's not too good. I am not far from a noob, and hoped someone else would help you. :welcome:

Thanks!