Home-made Minimag Tailswitch

[eidolen]

I really like the 3AA MiniMag LED form factor but just hate having to focus the beam every time you use it. I've tried quite a few of the commercially available tailswitches offered for the MiniMag but the quality of the ones I've tried were always a little bit off. Hopefully someone will make a run of some really high quality switches in the near future, (*Hint* Fivemega) but until then I decided to try my hand at it.

The switch and the silicone cover came from Kai domain. The spring is from an old broken Fenix switch. The rest of the parts were just stuff I had laying around.

I was surprised how well it ended up working. It has a nice positive "click" feel to it and looks like it would even be water resistant. I would have rather used a black button than orange but didn't have one with the nipple still intact.

Thanks for looking,
Eidolen

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[rhuck60]

thats pretty nifty looking. I do wish something like that was more commonly available.
I do use the Nite-Ize IQ switch on my 2AA Minimag with a Terralux TLE-5EX Extreme drop-in and have not had any of the serious problems reported by some users.
Thanks for posting yet another neat and well-done mod.

 

[PlayboyJoeShmoe]

Looks trick!

Can't quite see how it all goes together, but KEWL BEANS anyhow!

 

[eidolen]

Thanks Rhuck, I like the Nite-Ize flashing one as well but it won't work at this voltage and I read they lower the output a bit. I might have to tear one apart soon. =P

The cheaper one by them is just awful and though the Terra-Lux one looks ok from the outside, you can tell how cheap it is from the inside. I do like the lanyard attachment point on the Terra-Lux though. If anyone knows of something better that's available for purchase I'd love to know.

Looks trick!

Can't quite see how it all goes together, but KEWL BEANS anyhow!

Sorry for that. I guess I was a few pics short of telling the whole story. I also apologize for the poor lighting in the pictures.

First is the silicone tailcap turned inside out and cut to fit. I had to drill out the aluminum inside quite a bit since it is very thick to cover the travel of the switch.

Second is just a slug made from a part of a hinge pin and some nylon tubing to fill the gap between the silicone button and the top of the switch since it sits on a ridge. The tip of the hinge pin is rounded perfectly to sit down in the cap, the same shape as the drill bit I used. That keeps pressure on the button so it sticks out far enough and doesn't push back into the light.

The side contacts of the switch get soldered to the factory grounding ring and then it goes in next as one piece. It sits on a ridge in the cap as I mentioned earlier which prevents the switch body from travelling when it has pressure from the battery spring.

Next I ground down the inside of a "C" clip so it wouldn't short out on the contact on the back of the switch. The previous pictures didn't show it ground down yet but the one below shows it. The clip fits perfectly under yet another ridge in the cap holding the switch in place from pressure in either direction now. (I am normally not this lucky =P)

Last is a nylon shoulder washer that I filed down so that the top fingers of the factory grounding ring holds it into place. The spring is a perfect friction fit in the center of the washer. I did try to solder the spring to the back of the switch, but the switch disintegrated in almost an instant when I applied my soldering iron to it. The internal spring of the switch is apparently pushing on that contact from the inside making it almost impossible to get enough heat on it to solder without it failing. I might give it another shot later if I can figure out a proper jig to hold it at a lower temp, but it works so good now that I may not.

Cheers,
Eidolen

 

[Bloodnut]

Nice! I'll second the motion for someone to develop a decent clickie for the MM. I upgraded three this month (one was a gift, one for me, and one for a spare just cause I could). I used the RAM switch because it had the best look. While it's okay, I would like somethind a) with a positive click, b) a bit more robust, and c) with a lanyard attachment. It appears that this is asking too much.

 

[eidolen]

Nice! I'll second the motion for someone to develop a decent clickie for the MM. I upgraded three this month (one was a gift, one for me, and one for a spare just cause I could). I used the RAM switch because it had the best look. While it's okay, I would like somethind a) with a positive click, b) a bit more robust, and c) with a lanyard attachment. It appears that this is asking too much.

Hehe, I don't think it's asking too much, once someone realizes that there is a market for something like this. I can understand that your average user would not pay more for a switch than the light itself, but most people here are not average users. The ones being offered now are targeted for mass market unfortunately.

I just wish the incan version of the MiniMag didn't have that big lanyard attachment point and would allow a mod like this. It's even more frustrating that parts from the LED and incan versions aren't compatible.

If I were to design one it would be similiar to the Nova-Tac P series. The tail would be cupped slightly with a flush rubber boot as the switch. (To keep the tail standing ability.) The lanyard point would be similiar to this Terra-Lux.

Oh well, maybe one of the capable people on the community will take up the cause.

Cheers,
Eidolen

 

[Krit]

What a cool idea you are? I think kroll switch have a lot of bug on current drop and intermittent turn off. This method is realy make MM still traditional style of Maglite.

 

[Darksky]

Nice job. Very inventive :thumbsup:

 

[Bimmerboy]

That is a REALLY nice tailcap mod! Very sleek... it looks like a stock item! :thumbsup:

The switch specs look decent for the price as well.

Rating: 0.5A 36VDC
Contact Resistance: =100mO max (initial)
Electrically Life: 50,000cycles

That rating figure translates to 5A @ 7.2V (2 X Li-ion usage), and 10A @ 3.6V (single Li-ion usage). Resistance is pretty good too.

Yes, it's a shame the regular MM tail has all that missing metal for the lanyard (which I've never seen ANYONE use), or my problem would've been solved long ago. And it's absolutely maddening the new LED tails won't go on the regular. If anyone wants to have a look at this thread High current Kroll mod attempt - a night of frustration and comes up with a good idea, please post there!

 

[eidolen]

That is a REALLY nice tailcap mod! Very sleek... it looks like a stock item! :thumbsup:

The switch specs look decent for the price as well.

Rating: 0.5A 36VDC
Contact Resistance: =100mO max (initial)
Electrically Life: 50,000cycles

That rating figure translates to 5A @ 7.2V (2 X Li-ion usage), and 10A @ 3.6V (single Li-ion usage). Resistance is pretty good too.

Yes, it's a shame the regular MM tail has all that missing metal for the lanyard (which I've never seen ANYONE use), or my problem would've been solved long ago. And it's absolutely maddening the new LED tails won't go on the regular. If anyone wants to have a look at this thread High current Kroll mod attempt - a night of frustration and comes up with a good idea, please post there!

Thanks Bimmerboy. Glad to know I'm not alone in my quest.:laughing:
I am very pleased with the action and feel of the switch and it would be damn near perfect if it was able to accept solder easier. The fit inside the tailcap is almost scary. With an easily obtainable "C" clip from almost any hardware store, you are able to mount the switch securely which leaves many many options on how to transmit the click pressure to the switch. My way was only one possibility and could think of many other ways it could be done.

As far as as the incan MiniMag tails, if someone could design a system to allow different options similar to NovaTac I think it would be widely received. The 120P is still has sexiest switch of any light I own, but I also love the C and D versions ModaMag offers. I haven't yet tried the Kroll as I never liked the look of it, but will check out the thread you linked and read up a bit.

Cheers,
Eidolen

 

[Bimmerboy]

Oh, you're definitely not alone. There's a bunch of us out here wanting a high current, low resistance Minimag tailcap.

Ya' know, the more I look at that Kai switch, the more I wonder if it can be stuffed into a Kroll. Offhand, I don't see why it can't! Just need to ask three questions:

1. What are the outside diameters of the switch housing, and the button tower (the dimensions at kaidomain seem totally wacked)?

2. In your pictures, it appears there is a metal contact for the negative batt spring on the bottom center. Is that actually what it is, and if so, does that mean both protruding legs are conducting to the inside Minimag wall?

3. Is it a reverse clicky? I hope it's not, but to be honest, I could live with reverse. One of my MM based lights just needs on/off, and on the other one I can still change modes... just have to get used to it backwards. :sick2:

You may have discovered a very suitable switch for the Kroll mod!

 

[eidolen]

Oh, you're definitely not alone. There's a bunch of us out here wanting a high current, low resistance Minimag tailcap.

I've contacted someone to see if they would be interested in designing such a beast. Regardless of response, maybe we should be proactive and do a *Feeler* thread to gauge interest and design goals. If it seems to garner enough interest I'm sure one of the people capable of doing it justice will take it on.

Ya' know, the more I look at that Kai switch, the more I wonder if it can be stuffed into a Kroll. Offhand, I don't see why it can't! Just need to ask three questions:
1. What are the outside diameters of the switch housing, and the button tower (the dimensions at kaidomain seem totally wacked)?

From side contact to side contact - 11.3mm (.445")
Body, thin side - 10.09mm (.397")
Bottom to top of tower - 8.26mm (.325")
Bottom to switch top "OFF" - 9.75mm (.384")
Bottom to switch top "ON" - 10.43mm (.410")

2. In your pictures, it appears there is a metal contact for the negative batt spring on the bottom center. Is that actually what it is, and if so, does that mean both protruding legs are conducting to the inside Minimag wall?

Yes

3. Is it a reverse clicky? I hope it's not, but to be honest, I could live with reverse. One of my MM based lights just needs on/off, and on the other one I can still

change modes... just have to get used to it backwards. :sick2:

I'm afraid my ignorance on "Clickie" design has been exposed.

I believe it would be considered a reverse clickie, but.. when the light is on a soft press will turn it off momentarily. Unfortunately a momentary press when off achieves nada. My clickie terminology may be weak but I hope that explains the operation.

You may have discovered a very suitable switch for the Kroll mod!

That would be great if it did work out. I would reccomend benching it with a 2A load to make sure heat is not a factor as it was when trying to solder on a contact spring. Maybe I can set something up to do that if all the other info I gave is in-line to your needs. I'll also try and take some pics of the failed switch later so you can see what happened.

Cheers,
Eidolen

 

[Bimmerboy]

I've contacted someone to see if they would be interested in designing such a beast. Regardless of response, maybe we should be proactive and do a *Feeler* thread to gauge interest and design goals. If it seems to garner enough interest I'm sure one of the people capable of doing it justice will take it on.

To even equal the job you did with the LED MM tailswitch (hats off to you once again for your creativity!), I hope the "someone" happens to be an acquaintence with a home machine shop, and a real penchant for personal satisfaction through carving metal, as startup costs for a quality project can be prohibitive. I should clarify "a bunch of us". Yes, there are a number of hardcore flashaholics out here who would give their non-dominant side teste for the kind of switches we're talking about, but it's no mass market by any stretch. This is why our quest has been a tortured one :hairpull:

Not to sound negative... just relaying some realities facing such a project. It's been requested and talked about for years, but hasn't come to fruition. Given the right combination of design goals vs. manufacturing costs though, I fully believe this could be achieved.

From side contact to side contact - 11.3mm (.445")
Body, thin side - 10.09mm (.397")
Bottom to top of tower - 8.26mm (.325")
Bottom to switch top "OFF" - 9.75mm (.384")
Bottom to switch top "ON" - 10.43mm (.410")

Awesome info... thanks!

Yes

Excellent. This switch is presently looking better and better.

I'm afraid my ignorance on "Clickie" design has been exposed.

I believe it would be considered a reverse clickie, but.. when the light is on a soft press will turn it off momentarily. Unfortunately a momentary press when off achieves nada. My clickie terminology may be weak but I hope that explains the operation.

Spot on!

Oppositely, a forward clicky gives true momentary action when lightly pressed from off position, and also gives the ability to do intermittent presses while on to change modes with a multi-level "sammie".

That would be great if it did work out. I would reccomend benching it with a 2A load to make sure heat is not a factor as it was when trying to solder on a contact spring. Maybe I can set something up to do that if all the other info I gave is in-line to your needs.

Heat concerns due to current should be orders of magnitude less than soldering temps here. Nontheless, if/when I try this solution, I'll give it some back-o-the-finger and bare lips testing.

I'll also try and take some pics of the failed switch later so you can see what happened.

Looking forward to the pics, Eid!. The more info the better!

 

[eidolen]

Sorry for the delay. Have many things going on at once as usual. =P

If you look at the contact pad that came off you can see some melted plastic in the center. It was a very small diameter stem that fits inside the spring. I wasn't being extremely careful on that attempt to solder on the spring, but wasn't being sloppy either and only applied heat for maybe 2-3 seconds. I do believe it could be done if all precautions were observed but you would definitely want to have some backup switches just in case.

As far as someone taking up the cause to build a better switch, I've seen more than a handful of people on these forums that are tooled up and talented enough to take on the task. Of course it would need to be something they would find interesting enough to do as I really don't believe most of those people do it only to make a profit. They make custom offerings because they had a need themselves and thought others might feel the same.

I guess we can only hope that one of these people will get fed up with what can currently be bought off the shelf and bless us all with a wonderful alternative.

Hope the pics help,
Eidolen