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raggie33

*the raggedier*
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Outlets are like a 5 minutes job usually. Well I has to install gang boxes in my home first so it took longer
 

Hooked on Fenix

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Oh, I am definitely blaming the electrician...

We wanted (still want) to get grounded outlets in the living room. It's an 80's house, and for some weird reason there seems to be more things wanting electricity now, and using a grounded socket...

So fair enough. I buy my own outlets, identical to the ones a previous company installed in our house, because I don't want to pay $50 for a $3 dual outlet. Then I contact a company to come install them, sending photos and a quick floor plan sketch, and a description of what I want them to do.

Quick résumé of the E-mails:
"We can install those outlets for you. It will cost round $500".
"Great. When can you come do it?"
"Can you first please send us a picture of your fuse box."
"Okay, sure. Here."
Silence for a week.
"I haven't heard back from you. When can you come install the new outlets?"
"Sorry, we had to check some things based on the picture of your fuse box. You need a new one, with new fuses. We can do it for $2000."
"Thank you, but no, I only want to have the outlets replaced."
"Sorry, we cannot just do the outlets. Current legislations yadda-yadda-yadda..."
"Okay, thank you, bye."

I just want to replace the outlets myself now. Just pull the main breaker to be sure, and switch them out. I know the wiring got ground in them (I have checked visually, and we had an electrical inspection confirm it awhile back...whom interestingly enough did not comment on our fuse box at all, other than it being borderline filled up).
Not sure if your house still has an actual fuse box, but here in the U.S., we use circuit breakers now. They're switches that trip instead of fuses that blow making them more reusable. When the panel is full or near full, the electrician has to make sure the load of all the circuit breakers doesn't exceed the load of the main breaker. It isn't a matter of squeezing in more breakers or fuses into the panel, but a matter of the wire connected to the main breaker being large enough to power everything. If it isn't, the electrician has to change out the whole panel (main breaker comes in the panel) and run new larger wire from the panel to the service. That's when the costs add up.

Unfortunately, when you have anything permitted on your home, it's considered "new construction" and the electrician is required by law to update their work to current code requirements to pass inspection (otherwise the inspector makes them take it all out and start again). Upgrades to current code can be expensive.

Learned that lesson the hard way trying to help a friend put in about two dozen outlets and some lights only to be told by the inspector that they had to be tamper resistant (childproof) outlets and all outdoor lighting had to be high efficiency with photocell and motion sensor (No such product existed at the time. You had to have the "system" inspected). Had to go back and do the job all over again, but with 5x more expensive outlets and way more expensive lighting. This was when the first l.e.d. lighting was just becoming available. Tried to argue with the inspector that it was a remodel, not new construction so we didn't have to update to the newest code requirements. He said since there was a permit for the project, he considered it new construction. Sometimes it pays to know an electrician and not bother with a permit for a simple remodel. Inspectors sometimes make up the rules as they go. Sometimes it pays to have an electrician do it by the book so you don't kill yourself, get sued later by the next homeowner, or burn your house down.
 
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raggie33

*the raggedier*
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Messages
14,098
I'm trying to modify my eletric water heater so that when no water is in tank it kills power to the heater element I'm so sick of replacing them everything are subdivision turns off water for repairs. Wish they would at least warn me before doing so
 

Hooked on Fenix

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I'm trying to modify my eletric water heater so that when no water is in tank it kills power to the heater element I'm so sick of replacing them everything are subdivision turns off water for repairs. Wish they would at least warn me before doing so
I'd avoid anything that would modify the actual tank. It will likely void the U.L. listing and get you in trouble with the insurance company if anything goes wrong later on. Not quite sure what you had in mind to accomplish this. Might be easier to install an on/off switch for the tank next to it and just shut it off when you leave your home. That way, you don't have to worry about damage while you are gone.
 

raggie33

*the raggedier*
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Messages
14,098
That's what I was doing till today and forgot to turn it off lol. Oddly this time element did overheat but didn't fail it only melted the oring so it was leaking .
 
Joined
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I'm trying to modify my eletric water heater so that when no water is in tank it kills power to the heater element I'm so sick of replacing them everything are subdivision turns off water for repairs. Wish they would at least warn me before doing so
Turning the water supply off does not drain your water heater tank. Without water pressure the only way to drain it would be to open the drain on the bottom of the tank.
 

raggie33

*the raggedier*
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Messages
14,098
Trust me it drains maybe I have a leak plus my water heater is higher then many of my faucets
 

raggie33

*the raggedier*
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Messages
14,098
BTW what you say makes sense I'm starting to think I may have a leak but everything they shut my water off I loose a element .
 

Hooked on Fenix

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Gave me another idea I'm going to use a smart outlet adapter it can also monitor wattage and kilowatt daily or weekly it has a timer function and can be controlled by Google home or Alexa
Yes, but the product in the link will let you turn your water heater on and off remotely. No more forgetting. Also has a warning in case it leaks.

Whatever you do, remember screwups are an expense. Preventing future screwups is an investment.
 
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raggie33

*the raggedier*
Joined
Aug 11, 2003
Messages
14,098
Yeah mine will do all that to but I'd have to modify wiring and get a lower wattage element since I think the device is limited to 1500nwatts
 

PaladinNO

Enlightened
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Jun 22, 2017
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Norway
Not sure if your house still has an actual fuse box, but here in the U.S., we use circuit breakers now. They're switches that trip instead of fuses that blow making them more reusable.

This box isn't ours, but is very close to what we have (including how full it is).
I see the terminology mixed so often, I don't know for sure what is called what, but I think this is a fuse box. And a curcuit breaker are the reusable ones with a switch.
1720610990688.png


Didn't consider the part about thicker gague wires needed with more outlets, that makes of course sense. But more outlets would have been optional in this case. And the new outlets I bought is tamper resistent (I HATE those - the plastic tab just snaps off eventually!), which the current ones are not. So even just doing the outlet swap, it still would be more up to code than it is now.
 

Hooked on Fenix

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Messages
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And the new outlets I bought is tamper resistent (I HATE those - the plastic tab just snaps off eventually!), which the current ones are not. So even just doing the outlet swap, it still would be more up to code than it is now.
My two year old (at the time) niece defeated one of those outlets by holding a large metal replica dime and tucking it behind a loose nightlight. Those aren't childproof at all for my family. She learned about electricity very early in life.
 
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