Homemade 24" scratch built & designed reflector

Sky, He can get you going in the right direction, almost guaranteed to get some kind of results.

Good to see your still painting the sky with your home made beams... ')
Great stuff.
Thanks
X/BillyD..
 
Sky, He can get you going in the right direction, almost guaranteed to get some kind of results.

Good to see your still painting the sky with your home made beams... ')
Great stuff.
Thanks
X/BillyD..

Skydancer:

Thanks for the kind words.

Yes painting them with the 30 inch "Night Hawk" right now, in production.
 
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This is absolutely awesome work! This has inspired me to definitely try this. Thanks for this post. There seems to be lots of info regarding this reflector and bulb. Btw can you explain to me in a little more detail how to cut the angled foam for the reflector? I just want to make sure I don't jump into this without knowing how you did it first. Anyways sorry for being such a bother but, seeing this post has addicted me to it and I'm definitely gonna try and build one.
 
This is absolutely awesome work! This has inspired me to definitely try this. Thanks for this post. There seems to be lots of info regarding this reflector and bulb. Btw can you explain to me in a little more detail how to cut the angled foam for the reflector? I just want to make sure I don't jump into this without knowing how you did it first. Anyways sorry for being such a bother but, seeing this post has addicted me to it and I'm definitely gonna try and build one.


I have, (or had, ink dried in print heads!), a large printer. I made an actual sized profile of the reflector and then set the "jig saw", right on the drawing and set the blade angle at the average for that particular "layer" of Styrofoam. I bought a very long blade for this purpose. :naughty:

Originally I was actually building the 24 LightSward like a Surfboard is made...shaped Styrofoam covered with fiberglass. Instead, I covered the fiberglass with a thin layer of cement, shaped precisely with a "profile Screed), cut from an actual sized plan, glued to a piece of wood. Cut profile and attached center bolt to make a "bearing". This was attached to a "beam" over the screed and "walla" perfect parabolic profile!

I now use the "Mold Method". Similar construction technique. Build a "Negative" of the parabolic shape, (will look like a science project 'Volcano".), (See the 36 inch Gorilla Thread.)Wax it with candle wax only, using a heat gun and a hand held screed and the main screed. Polish and then put fiberglass over this. With a good steel frame, (I just bend a piece of 1/2 inch electrical conduit around a planter 24 inches in diameter.) With this frame in place, and using a good grinder and some wood wedges, carefully separate the reflector base from the mold, (volcano). Now silver it with, I suggest the good Chrome tape. Don't waster your time with any other thing, like paints etc. Here is the website that taught me some of this.:
http://www.greenpowerscience.com/PARABOLICMIRROR.html

Scroll down to the two bottom videos.. I don't know how this will show. Video not as big as when I saw it.


[TABLE="width: 659"]
[TR]
[TD="width: 314, colspan: 5, align: left"]MAKE A PARABOLIC PARABOLOID SHAPE
SOLAR COLLECTOR SOLAR HEAT

PART 1[/TD]
[TD="width: 6"][/TD]
[TD="width: 320, colspan: 4, align: left"]
MAKE A PARABOLIC PARABOLOID SHAPE
SOLAR COLLECTOR SOLAR HEAT

PART 2[/TD]
[/TR]
[/TABLE]
 
Here is an example of making the basic "Volcano" shaped "mold" for making the reflector I used from the 50 inch Monster. The Monster is based on the 60 inch WWII anti-aircraft searchlights.

Basic Cut-out guide for Rigid Foam Frame of concrete covered mold.

Cut-out guide for the Rigid Foam Board sandwich frame. This is the underlying shape of the reflector mold. The rigid board insulation foam is covered by several inches of concrete. This makes the mold light enough to be moved, but heavy enough to allow "Product Release", from the mold.

First, 50inch reflector, rigid foam sandwich layer, cut out

The first Rigid Foam Board layer is roughly profiled with a reciprocating saw, set at average profile angle.


Rigid Foam Sandwich stack for mold core

The sandwich assembly is half complete for the 50 inch Monster Reflector frame mold.


Here the layers have all been stacked and the cement layering will now comence with the help of the "Screed" set to the exact profile of the parabolic shape. Use several inches of cement.

This profiler ensures accurate reflector shape :naughty:.


First couple layers of Joint Compound (silicon based concrete), applied. (Now I just use candle wax covered concrete.)

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Rigid Foam core mold for 50 inch Monster Searchlight, has had first several layers of Cement applied :twothumbs. The next several layers of cement will bring more accuracy to the shape and a smooth glass like surface. If no experience working with cement...get some!:naughty: LOL.

If the dried, finished surface is rough, don't despair, the smooth glass like candle wax layer about to be applied, will smooth' out all the blemishes. I use a heat gun to melt the wax 'into' the cement, buff and a glass like surface is ready for molding the perfect reflector!
 
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Hi again. I talked to my father and he agreed to help me create this. We both have basic shop knowledge and love to do projects. I just recently talked to him about how I want to create the 24inch searchlight but, I was wondering if I could get some plans/tutorials for this? Once I have that we can start. Btw thanks for all the previous information. I guess I'm just I really simple minded person who needs plans or step by step tutorials.:shrug: Sorry about being so bothersome. If not just let me know.
have a good day/night
 
Hi again. I talked to my father and he agreed to help me create this. We both have basic shop knowledge and love to do projects. I just recently talked to him about how I want to create the 24inch searchlight but, I was wondering if I could get some plans/tutorials for this? Once I have that we can start. Btw thanks for all the previous information. I guess I'm just I really simple minded person who needs plans or step by step tutorials.:shrug: Sorry about being so bothersome. If not just let me know.
have a good day/night

I Think about what basically drives the project: What am I most comfortable working with and what are the cost(s) associated with it, (changes often). Example is my first searchlight I used a mound of firmly packed, slightly moist soil, shaped into a parabolic "negative". I precisely 'finished' the mound by placing a rod at the top of the mound and had a "screed", (a piece of wood cut out into the parabolic shape), fastened to the rod so it would 'spin' freely. I slowly spun it around, allowing the edges to scrape away the excess dirt, finally making a perfect dirt mold. I covered it with thin plastic sheets and then paper mache and PVC pipes to act as a frame. after drying, covered with foil. Worked well! Great solar concentrator too.:crazy:

What I'm getting at, is what you like to work with will work. I used the Styrofoam because I had no access to the right kind of dirt, dirt that is easy to shape and stays that way, (I would have used dirt if I had access to it). The Styrofoam is easy to 'roughly' shape and is light and easy to deal with in a condominium setting. The cement that is placed over it works well. :twothumbs

Originally the 24 inch searchlight was built like a surfboard, but I didn't have quite the perfect shape I was after to get a good beam. I used a screed to place a thin layer of cement over the fiberglass to get the desired shape. I put the reflective material on the surface treated cement.

The newest way I start out, is to build a base form of Styrofoam and then 'screed' shape it like the mound of dirt, into a perfect parabolic shape. Cover this with melted candle wax, buffed to a shine and then fiber glass this. Visit the '50 inch Monster' thread to see a good method of making a reflector like this.:huh: I used a different cement back then. I would use actual Portland cement now.

What three dimensional 'sculpting' material(s) are you comfortable working with? There are almost endless possibilities. The critical factor is getting a good copy of the parabolic profile you want, (deep dish, like the 24 inch LightSward, the medium split reflector like the 26 and 30 inch LightSport and NightHawk, or the flatter but longer focus length split reflector 50 inch Monster). You can obtain these by copying my profiles and then "scaling" them to the desired size. I usually print mine full scale and then glue it to a piece of 1/8 inch Medite, or high quality particle board. You can print to scale using multiple 8x11 sheets or just going to a Kinko's type place where they can print large copies. Carefully cut out shape with jigsaw, or band saw, etc. Paint or other sealant to prevent 'warpage'.:thumbsup:

I really should start a 'comprehensive Thread, that examines all the things I've learned making these lights. I have learned what works and what doesn't. Do you have limited space, (I do), or lots of storage and a big yard you can get messy with? A person can actually cut out multiple layers of cardboard and then cover with cement and wax. One big thing is, what kind of light source do you think you might use? HID, HMI, halogen, LED. How many watts, etc. :naughty:

Start looking around at what makes you comfortable, etc.:thinking:

Let me know. I'll start organizing a New Thread about just basic big light construction.😎
 
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Sounds good. I'm thinking of using the Home Depot metal halide 100 watt 9000 lumen. If its possible I would like to go with the easiest cheapest material to shape. Maybe we could brain storm. I'm thinking of sticking to the deep dish 24" reflector. Man that 24" light you made is awesome. Anyways ill let you know if I find more specific ideas. looking forward to the new thread!
see you there.:thanks:
maybe I should use dirt. What kind of dirt?
 
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Sounds good. I'm thinking of using the Home Depot metal halide 100 watt 9000 lumen. If its possible I would like to go with the easiest cheapest material to shape. Maybe we could brain storm. I'm thinking of sticking to the deep dish 24" reflector. Man that 24" light you made is awesome. Anyways ill let you know if I find more specific ideas. looking forward to the new thread!
see you there.:thanks:
maybe I should use dirt. What kind of dirt?

24 inch deep dish reflector is very good match for 100 watt HID 1/2 inch arc chamber. The dirt is best: if a slightly moist, clay, sand, little bit of organic mix often found in older backyards. Basically dirt that packs well, holds shape, doesn't easily fall apart, doesn't "morph" into a settled, shape after short time. Think of the sand castle on the beach and how 'vulnerable' that is...now add clay and maybe some organics, (binding materials), touch of water and ...good molding material.

I used the Home Depot Lithonia 100 watt HID 5850 lumen fixture. I cannibalized the parts into that 24 inch LightSward, before I switched it to 400 watts then back to 100 watts. Lit the lower clouds! Still gotta try the 1,200 watt small arc HMI in it.:thumbsup:

If you live in a home with a dirt patch; of a clay sand mixture, you may be able to just use it to make a "mound" like I did years ago with my first 60 inch searchlight. Maybe with a thin layer of cement. Stack multiple layers of cardboard to form a frame for a thin layer of cement...let harden...then more layers of cement to form final shape. Remember cement is very inexpensive if you get the standard home depot type. I actually want to make a cement reflector itself...or even one out of adobe and back reflective side of many potato chip bags...kind of an environmental statement both ways.

I really like working with fiberglass, now that I know much more about it. I usually buy extra hardener for the resin, since often my shop is cold, even with heat...have to ventilate....but I use sometimes extra hardener to get the resin to 'stiffen' up fast, so I can shape it better. Be careful...I mixed some and left it in the plastic cup, and it reacted fast and got hard, but generated so much heat, it burned my hand and I thought it was going to start that cup on fire!

As you said the light fixture from Home Depot is around $100.00, (sometimes the bulb can only burn in one position, but they sell down the isle, in a different part of the store a 100 watt HID bulb that is compatible with the fixture and fairly inexpensive that is universal burn). The fiberglass, cloth, extra hardener, paint, remember you need a glass like finish; 200 grit or higher # sand paper, and reflective CHROME tape, (I didn't like the way the chrome tape acted when I followed the instructions...using soapy water, etc, and got good results just using the adhesive as is and peeling the backing slowly as I needed it. he does the same in the video)., add cement total is just about another $100.00. Not bad.

The inner part of the mold can be as said earlier, dirt, crumpled newspaper, scraps of what ever doesn't move, Styrofoam, anything that can be settled down, shaped and covered with a thin layer of cement, in a parabolic shape. The sky is the limit. Do you plan to make more than this one or just one alone? If just one...I think a fairly heavy cement layer and melted, polished candle wax is what I now recommend no matter. Then you can make more for your friends and sell them too...keep me in mind...lol. Watch these videos if you haven't already, (especially the one at the bottom left...if it loads the same on your computer..: http://www.greenpowerscience.com/PARABOLICMIRROR.html
I learned from this and then developed my own variation.

Storage of the mold can be an issue if you have limited space. Start by building the mold on a thick piece of plywood for example, so that it can be moved easily. I have little planter wheels under mine...it weighs 200 pounds! I always save the "screeds" because they take up practically no space.

Cheers
 
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Hello. Thank you very much for this info. I'm going to start experimenting with what molds best. I don't know about the dirt in our area though. It seems pretty weak in terms of structural integrity. Anyways I have a 35 watt hid from a ryobi spotlight and let's just face it, this things reflector does everything but keep the beam tight. This thing shines a flood of light scattering like 50 to 100 feet wide at a few hundred feet away. So I saw your cyclops mod and was wondering what model that is? I'm thinking I could purchase the cyclops and put the bulb from the ryobi into it. It's a 35 watt short arc hid 4300k. The ballast is pretty small to. Just let me know if you can. I think it would be awesome to start with something like this then when I build the reflectors it will be nice to compare. Btw do you contact the faa before using the cyclops as well?
have a good day/night
 
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Hello. Thank you very much for this info. I'm going to start experimenting with what molds best. I don't know about the dirt in our area though. It seems pretty weak in terms of structural integrity. Anyways I have a 35 watt hid from a ryobi spotlight and let's just face it, this things reflector does everything but keep the beam tight. This thing shines a flood of light scattering like 50 to 100 feet wide at a few hundred feet away. So I saw your cyclops mod and was wondering what model that is? I'm thinking I could purchase the cyclops and put the bulb from the ryobi into it. It's a 35 watt short arc hid 4300k. The ballast is pretty small to. Just let me know if you can. I think it would be awesome to start with something like this then when I build the reflectors it will be nice to compare. Btw do you contact the faa before using the cyclops as well?
have a good day/night

Cyclops, or anything resembling them make great conversion hosts. Many stores sell them for well under $50.00! Great way to get started. I need to rebuild mine, as when the battery died, I took parts of it to make the "Mini-LightSward" test light with 1,200 watts HMI. See Seattle area get-together 2011:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?322604-Seattle-Area-Get-Together-Note
Here is the Mini LightSward with 1,200 watt HMI short arc with high volume air cooling system!

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The 1,200 watt HMI short arc Mini LightSward

The Mini LightSward with 1,200 watt HMI double ended short arc high intensity light using a 7.5 inch Cyclops reflector with high volume cooling system, UV and Ozone collector and pleasing light guidance system.
😎

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The Mini LightSward and Gorilla compare

The Mini LightSward and Gorilla compare light output of their 1,200 watt HMI 4,000 watt incandescent equivalent beams. The Gorilla design to the right is more efficient and brighter, but the Mini LightSward is small and easier to transport, with less light wash.


Both 1,200 watt HMI lights: KK Light compares to Gorilla

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Both 1,200 watt HMI lights: KK Light compares it's better focused beam to Gorilla's brighter but faster spreading beam.

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Four bright lights shine the night away: 1,200 watt HMI Mini LightSward, 1,200 watt HMI 36 inch Gorilla, 2,200 watt Xenon Tank Light, (Death Ray), and 1,000 watt projector bulb on baby? Sorry IgNITEor I forgot...I'll update.


I used to contact the FAA, but they really didn't ever seem too concerned about anything under 4,000 watts or under 2,000 watts super focused like the tank light...even then not too concerned. A 60 inch carbon arc WWII antiaircraft light is bright, but often from an airplane over a mile away, not too annoying, because the beam has spread enough and is visible to not be too annoying.

Responsibility is the key here. Don't shine directly onto aircraft and if you are operating a panning mechanism, the pilot should be able to 'judge' the 'sweep' of the beam and know when to avoid or anticipate the 'light spike' and briefly turn away or 'blink'. Usually it won't be anymore than what an approaching automobile at night looks like, hopefully with light beams on low.

Lasers are the big evil, because even a small handheld laser can be very annoying even dangerous...no warning when laser beam approaches.
 
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Thanks for the info! I ordered a cyclops colossus and am gonna work on it when it's received. Ill post the project progression. It probably won't be a long but focusing will be the most time consuming of efforts. Hope it'll turnout well.:naughty:
Any nice beam shots of yours?
have a nice day/night
 
Thanks for the info! I ordered a cyclops colossus and am gonna work on it when it's received. Ill post the project progression. It probably won't be a long but focusing will be the most time consuming of efforts. Hope it'll turnout well.:naughty:
Any nice beam shots of yours?
have a nice day/night

I only have some Cyclops beam shots at the beginning of this thread and throughout many of the other threads when I used it for comparison purposes.
 
Thank you everyone for suggestions, and keep them coming!

After careful review and consideration I don't think the ALSACORP Killer Chrome product line is suitable for my searchlight projects, especially the 24 inch LightSward, my flagship light! . It provided a wonderful base coat for upper layers of a different product more suitable for this project. I went to a local hardware store and found a more suitable spray chrome that makes a wonderful backing for what I will have to cover with....uhhggg...the chrome tape which provides a superior reflective surface. The hardware store chrome will make a good backing and fill for the gaps in the tape. I think with a nice 'pie slice' placement of the tape, a professional and appealing appearance will be met. :candle: 😀


Top part inexpensive 'Bright Chrome', hardware store paint and bottom portion, 'dull ALSACORP chrome paint'.
Comparison of ALSACORP 'dull' chrome to hardware bright chrome paint on upper portion of reflector.





Inexpensive hardware store Chrome Paint is almost good enough but will will have to have chrome tape applied. The gaps in the pie slices of chrome tape will be nicely 'filled' by the underlying chrome paint.

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Hand reflection in hardware store paint placed 'over' the "unsuitable" ALSACORP dull chrome paint.

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DON'T USE ALSACORP Killer Chrome PRODUCTS for searchlights. Use Local Hardware or Auto parts store Chrome paint instead.
 
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hey guys, i am a newbe and not english, so dont look at my mistakes! 😀
recently i found this interesting thread. i began to build parabolic mirrors one year ago and have lot of experience.
@lightsward , i had built a similar parabolic mirror with styropor and ( in german ) gips.
you find my works on: www.cover-art.tk
and on youtube: www.youtube.com/coverarttk

now i am working by an parabolic dish with a diameter of 1,60 m. it is an positive shape of a negative which material is styropor and gips.th
is positive consists of carbon fibers and in a fwe months i will upload some videos, how i made this.

greetings
 
hey guys, i am a newbe and not english, so dont look at my mistakes! 😀
recently i found this interesting thread. i began to build parabolic mirrors one year ago and have lot of experience.
@lightsward , i had built a similar parabolic mirror with styropor and ( in german ) gips.
you find my works on: www.cover-art.tk
and on youtube: www.youtube.com/coverarttk

now i am working by an parabolic dish with a diameter of 1,60 m. it is an positive shape of a negative which material is styropor and gips.th
is positive consists of carbon fibers and in a fwe months i will upload some videos, how i made this.

greetings

Welcome. Nice job on reflector. It reminds me of my 50 inch Monster searchlight. Look at this 2 x 4 burning about half way down page.:thumbsup:. :

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-inch-Reflector-quot-Monster-Light-quot/page4
 
Haven't spent too much time with this old baby, lately. I plan to try the 1,200 watt HMI soon. I may rebuild part of the 24 inch LightSward or build another one from scratch and make it more like the other Nighthawk types.

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Getting ready to make some changes...1,200 watt HMI

Some old beam shots of the 30 inch NightHawk I've made four of.
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Beam shot of the Night Hawk. The LightSward may have a different looking beam, hotter center.

What the LightSward may look like when I redo the water shield.
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THE NEW LIGHTSWARD when finished should look something like my 30 inch Nighthawk pictured here.
 
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