How to destroy a cree

VidPro

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I had a light (coast david15) that had no real way to stuff a cree EMITTER thing into it because its SQUARE. cant stuff a square thing in a round hole.
so frustrated with "nothing to lose" i just soldered the thing on.

i got the cree emitter Bloody hot, screwed up many times (as usual), and it survived, i am not positive of any LONG term damage, but its working good, and transfering heat to the body of the light.
i was expecting that by the time i got done, silicoln would be bubbling through a cracked glass dome , and smoke would be rolling off the board.

thermal significance, while Lead makes for one suckey thermal transfer device, some say that ANY metal is better than plastic or thermal epoxies.

Thanks to the person who posted the fact that you MUST remove the conductor strip off the bottom of the emitter. they showed a pic of thier mod, if i had not seen that, i might have screwed up.
it wasnt so easy to remove all of the connecting strip there, but i only had to remove ONE, because the base was going to be the negative connection.

is it possible to modify a coast David15, yes, but its a pain in the buttox.
 
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kenster

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I don`t know what a coast david 15 light is and it really doesn`t matter. I LOVE your post! :rock: Just dive in and do it! :clap: EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!:goodjob: Pictures next time so dummies like me can learn more, please.:grin2:


Ken
 

VidPro

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i would have taken pics, but nobody knows or cares about the coast david 15, whatever that is :) so it would not have a lot of purpose showing me ruining it, i mean improving it.
no real flashaholic would buy the thing, it uses optics, and is (was) about as dull as a hot single led model.
 

LumenHound

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I had to solder a XR-E emitter onto a copper riser to get the emitter up to the correct focal point and thought for sure I'd toast the emitter.

I checked the info from the Cree PDF about maximum temp for reflow surface mount soldering and found that the melting point of 63/37 electronic solder was low enough that it might work if I was careful. I had purchased 3 emitters so I thought what the heck. I'll give it a go.
The copper and emitter base were pre-tinned and a tiny bit of acid based flux was applied to the emitter base.

I put the emitter into a vise upside down and applied heat to the copper riser with a 100 watt soldering gun. The gun was used instead of an iron because I wanted the copper to get up to the 361 degree F solder melting point as fast as possible. The flux smoked and the solder from pre-tinning did it's thing.

I immediately hit the copper riser with a steady stream of canned compressed air to cool it down quickly.

It worked out well and the emitter performs flawlessly.

lr10xreflupic02qc7.jpg
 

daywalker

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@ Vidpro,

i am sure interested in the david15, but more the german LEDLenser David15 in Stainless Steel. I don't know how similar they are in their construction.
I have recently modded a LedLenser V6 that has a optic in also. And like LedLenser says thet there is a lightchip in with the power of 1,25Watt.
I exchanged the emitter with a SSC P4 and that was an easy but big improvement for the light.
I have some friends who wanted to buy the light immediatly from me. The original retail price for the light here in germany is about 55€. I have paid less than that, thanks to CPF and now i have a light that has cost me less than the original with a much better result.
It is just to bad that i did not take pictures before the mod.
 

VidPro

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LumenHound said:
I had to solder a XR-E emitter onto a copper riser to get the emitter up to the correct focal point and thought for sure I'd toast the emitter.

did you raise it to get it further into a reflector?
did you have to trim the reflector also?
 

VidPro

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daywalker said:
@ Vidpro,

i am sure interested in the david15, but more the german LEDLenser David15 in Stainless Steel. I don't know how similar they are in their construction.
I have recently modded a LedLenser V6 that has a optic in also. And like LedLenser says thet there is a lightchip in with the power of 1,25Watt.
I exchanged the emitter with a SSC P4 and that was an easy but big improvement for the light.
I have some friends who wanted to buy the light immediatly from me. The original retail price for the light here in germany is about 55€. I have paid less than that, thanks to CPF and now i have a light that has cost me less than the original with a much better result.
It is just to bad that i did not take pictures before the mod.

yes it was the stainless one, that was the OTHER misteak i made when i bought it, i was trying to get small and lite weight, and the stainless one is built like a tank.

of course i tossed out the curcuit junk entirely :) dont need that stuff unless there is going to be some levels or something. and put a li-ion in there , and 2 small 10ohm resisters parelleled (5ohms) so it would run close to full power.

the ring that holds the curcuit board in , had to be tossed too, to make up for the extra cree height , because the cree was no longer resessed into the heat sink.

ahh a few parts here and there tossed out willy nilly :) beats loosing parts. Ya know like, hey where does this go, and hey there is a few extra screws :)
 

HKT

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VidPro,
I've David 15 and during modding also.

First I tried with cree and changed optic to McR reflector, it bright but the reflector does not match with cree ( I should buy McR-XR)

I'd like to show you how I put cree in this light.
Just clip out the four corner of the emitter, it can isolate the connection between top and bottom.
4ic163b.jpg


By the way, I already changed to Seoul P4 to fit with my current reflctor, and I change the converter to Minipro..
But something strage, light doesn't bright as expected (cree is better), might be some problem about minipro wiring...( I will post this question )

And I think cree does not match with David 15's optic, you better order McR16-XR from sandwiche shoppe and size down to around 15.5 , it shoud be better.
 

LumenHound

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Yes to both. The original emitter was a Lux lll.
VidPro said:
did you raise it to get it further into a reflector?
did you have to trim the reflector also?
 

HKT

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Newuser01 said:
I have blown up pictures in this thread and here. If any1 is interested in looking.
Have a question for HKT.

Did SSC did not work with stock optic at all?

Thanks.

Never try yet.
I have no SSC now.:)
 

VidPro

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HKT said:
VidPro,
I've David 15 and during modding also.

I'd like to show you how I put cree in this light.
Just clip out the four corner of the emitter, it can isolate the connection between top and bottom.

.

i thought about doing that, but its soooo small a part already, and trying to wire it up after that, you did an amasing job of gettin that in there.

my cree in the david15 seems to be as good as what was there, the beam pattern is a bit SQUARE, which indicates that it is "tuned" fairly close. i did not have to put in a lifter or seperator type thing, but i did toss in some sheet Glow in the dark, instead of the rubber waterprooofing gromet
 
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HKT

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VidPro said:
i thought about doing that, but its soooo small a part already, and trying to wire it up after that, you did an amasing job of gettin that in there.

my cree in the david15 seems to be as good as what was there, the beam pattern is a bit SQUARE, which indicates that it is "tuned" fairly close. i did not have to put in a lifter or seperator type thing, but i did toss in some sheet Glow in the dark, instead of the rubber waterprooofing gromet

Can you show the beam shot of cree with stock optic. interesting about this.
mine cannot use now.

This david 15 has many available space , I think enough for star thickness also because spring is quite long.

By the way, because I don't have cree reflector, so I decided to change to Seoul driven by minipro, but some problem occurred I think.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1890552#post1890552
 

VidPro

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HKT said:
Can you show the beam shot of cree with stock optic. interesting about this.
mine cannot use now.

This david 15 has many available space , I think enough for star thickness also because spring is quite long.

By the way, because I don't have cree reflector, so I decided to change to Seoul driven by minipro, but some problem occurred I think.
http://candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?p=1890552#post1890552

dont have pics of it yet.
but at 15 feet it makes a 7 foot square beam, with a 3.5foot area in the center of that , that is brighter.
BUT
i do have a possilbe solution to your problem.
thanks to your great picture, LOOK closely at your die, it looks like it is died, there is some bad look inside the dome?
its hard to tell (forsure), but what if the silicoln in there has air in it or something?

test the optic again by putting it on top of a different live cree, and align it manually, and see why there could be a problem?

if you have a computer flatbed scanner, you can get a pretty good look at the emitter with it.
 
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