How to identify a H51?

[CalgaryGuy]

I purchased a Zebralight H51 (200 lumen). When comparing the light, it's about the same as my wife's PT EOS (70 lumen). I also compared it to a SF L1 (65 lumen) and they all appear to be about the same. I've also compared to a 4Sevens Quark AA (105 lumen) and the Quark AA is much brighter.

Only the box indicates it's a H51, no where on the light indicates what Zebralight version I got. How do I know if they send me the correct light and why is it runs about 70 lumens? I've tried to swap the battery already and it's still the same. All done with a ceilling bounce test.

 

[Bolster]

I for one, would gladly pay a little extra to get some sort of model identification and build date on my Zebralights. Hope they're listening.

 

[JA(me)S]

CalgaryGuy,

Are you able to access all modes - and is there a visible difference among them?

-Jas.

 

[Glock27]

RMA it. Then you get to wait a couple months.

G27

 

[srfreddy]

RMA it. Then you get to wait a couple months.

G27

Uh... whats up with that attitude? A good dealer should turn a light around much faster. Can you switch modes?

 

[nekomane]

What kind of batteries are you using?
The light is not that bright on alkalines. Have you tried Eneloops?
Also, the floody beam may make the light look less bright in comparison to others.

Images of H51:

 

[cave dave]

The EOS and L1 both use optics so more of their light is focused into the spot. If you want to compare lumens you need to do a bounce test, not just compare the spots. A comparison of the entire beam outside in the dark is also more useful than a comparison against a wall in the daylight. Some lights like the ZL won't throw as far but will light up a much bigger area.

Also the ZL max level seems to be sensitive to the cleanliness of the battery tube contacts so clean those. Also double click while on Max to make sure you are really on Max.

 

[Potato42]

Also double click while on Max to make sure you are really on Max.

When I first got my H60w into high mode, I was a little underwhelmed with the performance until I remembered to double click it into the real high mode.

 

[CalgaryGuy]

Thanks for the reply everyone.

Bolster - Yeah, I don't mind paying a little bit more and get proper light identification.

JA(me)S - I can easily access the default 3 modes, one very dim, one mid and one high.

Glock27 - I'm hoping not to have to RMA as I don't want to have to wait for a few more weeks.

nekomane - I don't have any Eneloops but I run with Duracell PreCharged NiMH 2000mAh. I believe they are the Duracell equivalent of Eneloops. I also tried with Duracell NiMH 2650mAh. Both gives out about 70 lumens.

nekomane - The picture looks about the same as my H51 but I believe mine has an extra groove near the tail cap to install the removable pocket clip.

cave dave - I do a bounce test off a white ceiling, from about 3 feet. Both hot spot and side spill are within the edge of the ceiling.

cave dave – Thanks for recommending the battery cleaning, I just clean the positive side of the light and there were a lot of black stuffs. Not sure how this got passed manufacturing… I should’ve seen it, the same thing happened to a few Fenix LD01 that I purchased last year.

Potato42 – Tried it but it doesn’t seem to make a difference, still around the same lumen.

Currently charging the batteries as I’ve being playing around with it for a little while now. Hopefully the cleaning Cave Dave suggests would make a difference.

 

[CalgaryGuy]

The battery finished charging and I'm using it right off the charger. The H51 now is much brighter. It's slightly brighter than the 4Sevens Quark AA when doing a ceiling bounce test.

I also notice that the light is warm after 1 minute on high. When I was playing around with it earlier, I had it on high for 30 minutes and barely feel the heat from the light.

Thanks Dave, you saved me a few painful week of waiting for the RMA.

 

[Lite_me]

When I first got my H60w into high mode, I was a little underwhelmed with the performance until I remembered to double click it into the real high mode.

Potato42 – Tried it but it doesn’t seem to make a difference, still around the same lumen.

If this is the case, then your batteries are under performing. You should see a noticeable difference between the lowest high and the default high 200 lumen output. Invest in some true Eneloops just to be sure. That's all I'll run in my ZLs and they most definitely perform the best with them.

Also, make sure the tailcap is tight. This can be a troublesome on some samples. The light doesn't seem to flicker, it just won't reach total brightness.

Edit: I was replying as you posted.

 

[pblanch]

I noticed the problem wit the tailcap as well. Couldnt understand why it was not as bright and was starting to flicker.

Screwed it that 1/10 of a rotation and was fine again. Thankfully I have been watching this forum or I may not have known.

 

[CalgaryGuy]

Lite_me - After cleaning the positive contact on the H51, I now see quite a differnce between the two high modes. I'm going to pass on the Enloops for the time being as I have plenty of Duracell PreCharged NiMH 2000mAh.

pblanch - Played around with the tail cap, it doesn't seem to make a difference. Possibly this batch doesn't have the tail cap issue.