How To: McClicky Switch disassembly

Shandstech

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Dec 2, 2008
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24
Switch disassembly:

remove o-ring and boot:
remove switch from tail of light with snap ring pliers or similar:

Using something small, a flat head screwdriver here, gently pry these metal tabs away from plastic. Be careful not to pry too much as it only takes a little bit of movement to release these tabs from the switch assembly. This clip is what holds the spring in place. Note the orientation of the spring as it will need to go back in the same way.


This is what you are left with. The last coil on the bottom of the spring that has the nipple sticking out, will need to be on the metal tab at the bottom of the switch in this picture when re-assembling. More on that later.

Next, go around the edges with something small and flat and pry the two pieces in half making sure not to pry too much on one side at a time or the prongs holding it together might break.



Once they are all the way apart, you will be left with this. Be careful as there is a small spring in there you don't want to lose.

From there you can pry the metal ring off of the plastic and you'll be left with this.

Once the large ring is removed the small ring that is attached to a rod that goes into the actual button just slides out. It will have lubricant on the inside, mine seemed to have an excessive amount so I cleaned some of it off.

at this point I cleaned everything with CRC electrical grade contact cleaner.

after that, reassemble in reverse. Note that the large coil on the bottom of the spring with the nipple coming off is on top of the metal contact.

Other side

then put the spring retaining clip back on and crimp it back into place using needle nose pliers.

Put boot and O-ring back on and you should be good to go.

I hope this helps some of you guys out there. Message me if you have any questions.
Travis
 
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badtziscool

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Very nice! McClicky's are relatively cheap to replace, but the knowledge of how it's built is invaluable. Thanks for the writeup.
 

McGizmo

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Cool! I would point out that you don't need to remove the tapered contact spring unless you feel there is call to do so. You can get to the inner workings without removing it.
 

F89

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Mar 15, 2014
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I'll contribute another thanks for posting this. I had imagined that a plastic part or another would break trying to open the switch.
I was having problems with my mule jumping modes on me, at first replaced the battery which I later tested for charge and was still good to go then I tried the cr123 clicky packs of my two other lights which worked alright so I need not stress about driver issues at that point.
So next with reference to your post I disassembled my McClicky minus removing the contact spring. There was fine rust all over the tiny plunger spring attached to the ratcheting piece that seats under the button (not visible in your photo tutorial) so I gave it a quick soak and pat down (still a bit rusty), everything else was pretty clean so I reassembled it at that point and it works much better although I might swap it out for the spare I purchased with the light.
Weird that cleaning a part that doesn't play a role in conducting electricity helped (as in the spring part and not the metal disk it sits behind), maybe the rebuild and general wipe down kicked it back into line somewhat?
It's quite a new light, little pocket time and never been wet past a quick rinse under fresh water.
Anyway, thanks for showing us that McClickies are serviceable.

Cheers
 
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MikeSalt

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Jan 10, 2007
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Stoke On Trent, Staffordshire, UK
Where can I purchase a replacement switch given that Lighthound doesn't exist anymore? Admittedly a very rare event, but occasionally the switch sticks in the on position. Cycling it back on and off again remedies the problem, but I'd rather try another switch. I have already removed the boot to check that it wasn't pinching or anything daft. Many thanks in advance.

P.S. This event is so rare that it's unlikely that the person that sold me this light was aware of it.
 

MikeSalt

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This should be a sticky.

That's funny because sticking is actually the problem I've been experiencing:




Also, where do you buy the switch boots? Mine if fine at the moment, but I'm aware it's a wearing part. I appreciate that the switch is also a wearing part which is why I'm not upset that it is sticking.
 
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peter yetman

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Mar 23, 2014
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Is this the one? McClicky Switch. Does that one include the drive holes?


That is the one.
It's the baic switch.
If you want to fit it into a Surefire tail, you need a brass adaptor ring (also on Illumn) they make the rings for P series lights.
Picture from Oveready site.


2vlmgxz.jpg


But if you're replacing an existing McClicky, like in a Malkoff it's a straight swap with the basic switch.
P
 

peter yetman

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Btronics has blue ones
http://www.3tronics.co.uk/#!product-page/c1hs9/b99c5dcb-fb21-ad38-c17f-65ddf3a8c743
You could check with James at Btronics if they're the size you need, he's super helpful and may have a different size or colour.
Illumn also supply them as part of their McClicky kit although they seem to be on backorder.
Craig at Illumn may be able to help sort you out.
[email protected]
Also Oveready have them although the shipping makes it pointless although you could buy the McClicky as well from them if they do it without the ring. Give Overready an Email they're showing McClicky parts out of stock, but they're showing the switches and rings, I'm sure they'd sort it for you.
I've got an order coming in from OR shortly when they've done their last BoreBatch. I could add some boots for you if you want and post them on. Due late this month.

Or Malkoff, I'm sure they'd help and you may be able to persuade them to put them in a Jiffy for less postage.
Hope that helps, PM me if you want me to order.
P
 
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