- Mar 12, 2011
- Nova Scotia
Absolutely. I gutted an old PSU to make use of its metal case a couple of months ago. First thing I did was cut all the wires off. Be aware, that the insulation on the wires is PVC and will melt if they get too hot. Don't let that stop you from using them. You've got a big bundle of wire in different sizes that didn't cost you anything. The majority of wires should be 22awg. This is actually larger than the wire I've used (24awg) in my P7 mods. It will be more than sufficient to handle the current required to feed a P7.
Sorry about the late reply, I really appreciate the information. I wanna give a huge thank you to all of you. I've read through this entire thread twice now and I've been learning to solder fixing some electronics that were headed for the trash if I couldn't get them working, I'm feeling more confident and thinking I should add a driver to my first P7. This brings up some questions, I'm hoping to double check what I've read on this thread.
I've got a D-bin and heatsink in the mail along with nimh batteries and I've got spare 3 and 4 D maglites.
1. Would the following driver be appropriate to run on 3-4 nimh batteries as well as alkalines if necessary?
2. If so, is there any way I could use something like a SharkSink D to heatsink it to the body? I'm worried that I can't because it looks like there are wires on both sides.
3. What are the connectors used in the 4th picture on the following thread? Are there any online stores that have these? It looks like there is one type for the separate wires from the switch and another for the two that go to the LED.