How will my E1e operate with an L1 head?

SpyderHS08

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Aug 27, 2009
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Hello all,

I was wondering how my E1e will operate if I put a lumamax head on it? Will it have dual settings, will it drain quicker/slower? I dont have the lumamax yet or I would have tried this..also is the head that comes on the lumamax the Kx1 head?

Thanks!
 
I remember trying the L1 head on a Vital Gear FB1 body. All I got was the low mode to come on.

About the head, its unique to the L1 (don't think it has a Kx/KL designation)
 
The threads on the head of the L1 are unique to the body of the L1 (and maybe the L2 and A2?) - the L1 head will not physically fit on an E-series body (and E-series heads will not fit on the L1 body).

That said, I'm not sure exactly how the L1 would operate with a body and tailcap not designed for two stages. Under these conditions, the LX2 only operates on high, though all of its electronics are in the head (as opposed to some in the body on the L1). Presumably, if SF keep their design consistent, you'll be able to put an LX1 head on an E1E body and get only the high level. But that's only a guess - we'll have to wait until the LX1 is actually released.
 
The threads on the head of the L1 are unique to the body of the L1 (and maybe the L2 and A2?) - the L1 head will not physically fit on an E-series body (and E-series heads will not fit on the L1 body).

That said, I'm not sure exactly how the L1 would operate with a body and tailcap not designed for two stages. Under these conditions, the LX2 only operates on high, though all of its electronics are in the head (as opposed to some in the body on the L1). Presumably, if SF keep their design consistent, you'll be able to put an LX1 head on an E1E body and get only the high level. But that's only a guess - we'll have to wait until the LX1 is actually released.

The L1 head fits the series bodies but not vice versa.

Read somewhere that the LX1 head will have the electronics housed inside the head. If I recall correctly, its the tail cap resistor that produces the high and low.
 
The LED will be running Direct Drive from the battery since the driver is located in the body.

That said, the L1,L2 head will screw onto any e-series body and work in DD, but other e-series heads cannot screw onto the L1 or L2 bodies. The driver housing in the neck of the L1/L1bodies will not allow it.

The A2 head/body has a different thread all together. If disassambled and the A2 head will fit on an M1 Illuminator body, but of caurse will not work...but they can interchange for modding purposes...FYI

Only the tailcaps are the same on the L1/L2/A2.
 
The L1 head fits the series bodies but not vice versa.
Yes, you are correct.

=Read somewhere that the LX1 head will have the electronics housed inside the head. If I recall correctly, its the tail cap resistor that produces the high and low.


We can only wait and see, but so far it appears to be the case..
 
Direct drive meaning..that it wont perform as well because it will slowly fade as the battery does or how does that work..? Is it going to drain faster because of this or the same, And I wont be able to use the double output function if I put it on the E1e? Is there a tail cap I can purchase that will allow this or no? Once again I am a newb in the flashlight world:mecry:
thx
 
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Direct drive meaning..that it wont perform as well because it will slowly fade as the battery does or how does that work..? Is it going to drain faster because of this or the same, And I wont be able to use the double output function if I put it on the E1e? Is there a tail cap I can purchase that will allow this or no? Once again I am a newb in the flashlight world:mecry:
thx

For a dual mode E1E:

There was something called the McE2S tailcap mod that allowed for dual modes. Its been discontinued and hard to find. (unless you are willing to pay). Good luck finding one.
 
My avatar is a 1st gen L1 head on an E1 body and a two stage McE2S tailcap. It is one of, if not my favorite light, but it is modded with a tough low Vf K2 TFFC that can handle a lot more current than most single die LEDs. Since it is Direct Drive, the performance depends heavily on the battery you put in it and how well it matches the LED specs - especially the forward Voltage (Vf). I have run three different generations of L1's and run various mods of those direct drive on CR123, RCR123 (3.7V) 3.0V RCR123, and IMR123 in addition to larger RCRs t00 (18500 & 18650) The output drops initially on RCR, then sorta levels off for a while, then drops of at the end. Direct drive, the runtime chart looks like the battery's discharge chart. Put a CR123 in it and it will run at a lower level for a much longer time.
For a dual mode E1E:

There was something called the McE2S tailcap mod that allowed for dual modes. Its been discontinued and hard to find. (unless you are willing to pay). Good luck finding one.
 
My avatar is a 1st gen L1 head on an E1 body and a two stage McE2S tailcap. It is one of, if not my favorite light, but it is modded with a tough low Vf K2 TFFC that can handle a lot more current than most single die LEDs. Since it is Direct Drive, the performance depends heavily on the battery you put in it and how well it matches the LED specs - especially the forward Voltage (Vf). I have run three different generations of L1's and run various mods of those direct drive on CR123, RCR123 (3.7V) 3.0V RCR123, and IMR123 in addition to larger RCRs t00 (18500 & 18650) The output drops initially on RCR, then sorta levels off for a while, then drops of at the end. Direct drive, the runtime chart looks like the battery's discharge chart. Put a CR123 in it and it will run at a lower level for a much longer time.

Too bad the Mce2S is no longer made.
 
you know, you COULD have just asked it in your original thread. Or read it more carefully and find that its already answered.

The only other case where a Eseries head can operate with an L1 body is like in my custom light in my signature, where the L1 body has had its Circuitry removed.

Crenshaw
 
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