I am suddenly not pleased at all with Surefire.

[AMRaider]

Oh guys, this thread is beyond funny. Grown up men fighting about bondwires and P4 or Q2 and whatnot.

It simply does not matter. The light does what it should do. It fulfills its mission. Why should anyone worry about minor details of a few bins up and down?
This is a CPF-specific tendency and it is ridiculous. It is far beyond reasonable.

Remember back then ... LuxIII ... T-bin vs. U-bin ... discussions about "best bin". 6 months later the Cree came and shattered all that important discussion and transformed it into what it should have been from the beginning ... nothing. Dust.

Same here.


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Another note: while I agree that the runtime issue sucks indeed, and that SF once provided runtime graphs and no longer does, which also sucks, this is a different topic and considered off-topic in this thread which is about ... hm ... :nana: ... bondwires.
So let's leave the runtimes out of here and let's talk more about bondwires. 😀


bernie

On second thought, Bernie is right. It would be cooler if my Crees has 4 wires instead of 3, but the fact remains: They work as intended.

 

[1996alnl]

Hey sgt LED how does your E2L perform?
Output and tint,i was considering getting a E2L because of the 60 lumen output and only 152mA draw.

But now i'm having second thoughts as there's no way of knowing if i'm getting an updated emitter, but if yours is working good then i would consider getting one.

 

[RobertM]

FWIW, I just checked my E1B and it has 4 wires.
I think you guys are getting way too worked up over nothing too :laughing: My SureFires are bright and do what I expected them to do. If runtime is going to be a big issue for me, I'll check CPF first to verify SureFire's numbers.

 

[jchoo]

My single stage E2DL (#A01754) has only 3 bond wires. :shrug:

 

[Fooboy]

See signature.

Both lights have 4 wires for what its worth.

 

[kramer5150]

Ah.. good to know. I'm going to have to check all my LEDs now :green:.

there are also P4 BINs with 4 wires... heres mine FWIW.

 

[jzmtl]

How about this point: The higher the bin on your LED the brighter it will be at a constant current (or should be). Thus, assuming the current supplied is the same to two different binned Surefires, the one with the "dimmer" bin will also have a much more desirable low. Although the M20 is my new best friend, low can be too bright at times, just like the low on many fenix's. This is in part due to the use of a higher bin at the same current..

Just another angle for the OP to consider (And enjoy not screwing up your night-adapted eyes because 5 vs 10 lumens is a Huge difference)

That's a messed up logic, luxeon would give you even lower low, but would you want that?

there are also P4 BINs with 4 wires... heres mine FWIW.

Unless you ordered specifically for P4 chances are it's not. Manufacturers generally order for "P4 or higher", as LED getting more efficient P4 are becoming rare, so chances are you have a Q2 or such. You also have a silver backed cree so it's relatively recent.

 

[maxa beam]

That's a messed up logic, luxeon would give you even lower low, but would you want that?



Unless you ordered specifically for P4 chances are it's not. Manufacturers generally order for "P4 or higher", as LED getting more efficient P4 are becoming rare, so chances are you have a Q2 or such. You also have a silver backed cree so it's relatively recent.

Is "Luxeon" a bin of Crees?

Did I miss something?

 

[NightTime]

A friend who is also a EE graduate once bought a lightwave 4000 because it was advertised to have a runtime of over a month (over 800 hours). He still doesn't have the faintest and when I asked him, he was completely satisfied with it.

A guy I used to work with bought a flashlight like this one Here to work with. It was the LED type. Technically you can't change the batteries in it. It's very dim, but off course it last very long. The guy couldn't understand why I paid 60$ for my flashlight (an L1D). So after a few months, just to be kind and as the guy was still using his light (sure it was running below 50%) I said: "so your still having light coming out of this thing? Geez your batteries are good!" 😗

His answer...
Oh! Here in Canada (he's chinese) when you read specs in the flyers, you can really trust them. The flashlight was said to be good for 100 000 hours...

🙄

 

[Federal LG]

Horrible tints? Please, link me to percentile rates or a small study at least.

My first L1 has an horrible tint.
It´s really, really grenish on low mode. :shakehead

My actual L1 is still greenish, but less greenish than the first one (better!). I really like it now!
And it has a 4 wire LED inside the TIR optics.

Sincerely, I never liked this "mistery thing" about Surefire LEDs.
C´mon... If you´re using just "premium bins", what´s the problem to tell us clearly which one each light has ??

Well... there is a lot of brands that says it, clearly.
Fenix, Tiablo, Dereelight, Lumapower...

What´s the big deal ??

Unless...

 

[Marduke]

Is "Luxeon" a bin of Crees?

Did I miss something?

That statement really speaks volumes about everything you have said in this thread and any other.

 

[maxa beam]

That statement really speaks volumes about everything you have said in this thread and any other.

This statement really speaks volumes about how well you process what you read.

I was implying, sarcastically, we're talking about Crees and not Luxeons.

 

[Marduke]

This statement really speaks volumes about how well you process what you read.

I was implying, sarcastically, we're talking about Crees and not Luxeons.

Sure ya were.... :shakehead

 

[maxa beam]

Sure ya were.... :shakehead

Yeah, sure, I was

Are you trying to sound like a giant troll or what.

 

[Sgt. LED]

Hey sgt LED how does your E2L perform?
Output and tint,i was considering getting a E2L because of the 60 lumen output and only 152mA draw.

But now i'm having second thoughts as there's no way of knowing if i'm getting an updated emitter, but if yours is working good then i would consider getting one.

I am a forgiving fellow for the most part:

My emitter is yellow backed for what it's worth.
There is a scratch inside along 1 side of the optic which does not effect the beam.
There is a fingerprint on the lens between it and the optic, no way to clean it.
Low mode is a tint shift to greenish which doesn't bother me any.
LED and optic are not quite aligned, nasty inside but just fine outdoors again this doesn't bother me.
2 output levels are nice, a low low and an ok regular brightness. I got it for the low runtime.
It has good throw but it would do a little better if the led was dircectly under the optic.

I am not sure if I should send it to Surefire when it breaks or just send it to Milky now.

 

[Federal LG]

I am a forgiving fellow for the most part:

My emitter is yellow backed for what it's worth.
There is a scratch inside along 1 side of the optic which does not effect the beam.
There is a fingerprint on the lens between it and the optic, no way to clean it.
Low mode is a tint shift to greenish which doesn't bother me any.
LED and optic are not quite aligned, nasty inside but just fine outdoors again this doesn't bother me.
2 output levels are nice, a low low and an ok regular brightness. I got it for the low runtime.
It has good throw but it would do a little better if the led was dircectly under the optic.

I am not sure if I should send it to Surefire when it breaks or just send it to Milky now.

I became really disapointed because we´re not talking about a 30 dollars light, but we´re talking about a 160 dollars light, that is known as "the best" ilumination tool ever!

In my opinion, it just can´t have things like fingerprints, scratchs, non-aligned LEDs, etc...

But that´s just my opinion.

 

[ampdude]

So then bond wires mean nothing... ?

If you want the latest binned emitter, a sure bet is to use lights that accept drop-ins. Otherwise you're probably not going to get an R3.

 

[ja10]

I am a forgiving fellow for the most part:

My emitter is yellow backed for what it's worth.
There is a scratch inside along 1 side of the optic which does not effect the beam.
There is a fingerprint on the lens between it and the optic, no way to clean it.
Low mode is a tint shift to greenish which doesn't bother me any.
LED and optic are not quite aligned, nasty inside but just fine outdoors again this doesn't bother me.
2 output levels are nice, a low low and an ok regular brightness. I got it for the low runtime.
It has good throw but it would do a little better if the led was dircectly under the optic.

I am not sure if I should send it to Surefire when it breaks or just send it to Milky now.

Have you contacted SureFire and given them that list? The way you describe it is very reasonable. These lights are production, and a couple minor annoyances are to be expected. However, with all of this and the lower bin LED, it might be worth asking them if you have any options. They might just swap it out of you.

 

[woodrow]

Oh for the good old days of SF HO incans.... if you did not like a particular bulb....just wait 30 or so hours (barring the occasional insta flash) and the problem would solve its self. I love leds and digital cameras.... but sometimes I miss the simple days of incans and film.

 

[Burgess]

Very interesting thread here.



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