I just received a Malkoff MD10...

[Bullzeyebill]

Try measuring lux at a distance further than 1 meter, such as 6 meters, and use the inverse square law to adjust for lux at one meter. Some reflectors need more distance to focus the spot for an accurate measurement of lux.

Bill

 

[kelmo]

Good morning neighbor to the north.

My room is not big enough nor is my hand steady enough to do the test at 6 meters! Justin Case ran his test at 1 meter so I tried to use the same testing parameters. The beams from the M3 heads were quite uniform and did not have donut holes so I think I got an accurate ball park figure.

kelmo

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Good morning neighbor to the south. You no doubt have it right. It is those flashlights that show a donut hole at close range that I test further back.

Bill

 

[Justin Case]

OK Justin Case here are the details;

I used an EXTECH HD450 meter in a dark room with the lights held 1 meter above the sensor.

M3 w/MD10 tower ~10,000 lux

M6 with a M3 head and a neutral white Veleno Designs M3 tower 5,700 lux

I don't have the technical means to measure tailcap current but Malkoff's website indicates a 650 mA draw @ 9 volts and I imagine the Veleno Designs towers would pull the same current.


kelmo

Thanks. Good agreement with what I measured for a Veleno M3 tower. At 9.0V, I measured 0.41A draw. If the Veleno and Malkoff driver efficiencies are comparable, an 0.65A draw would suggest 1.5A drive current to the XP-G. That probably explains the difference in hot spot performance.

 

[cland72]

Bump - does anyone have outdoor beam shots?

 

[Lodogg2221]

Ill second that....beamshots PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE!

Oh, and while we are at it, would you all get the MD10 or a custom single mode D36 from Nailbender?
Having a hard time deciding....mostly because the D36 isnt a drop in, and I dont want to goof up the light.

 

[kelmo]

Isn't a D36 for a 6P type light?

 

[chewy78]

no its 10 mm bigger for like a wolf eyes m90 rattlesnake light that runs of of like 4 cr 123s or 2- 18650 cells.

 

[Lodogg2221]

Isn't a D36 for a 6P type light?

In addition to what Kelmo said, it can also be used in the head of the M3, if you can get it apart to remove the original reflector....
As it turns out, Ive got an MD10 on the way...couldnt resist.
If for some reason I dont like it, Im sure I can get rid of it...but if its anywhere close to the output of the higher output bulbs, Im pretty sure it will be a keeper.

Now I cant do beamshots....well, I could, but they would be of the ridiculous amateur type. I dont even have anywhere close to go for long distance shots, nor do I know how to set up my camera so all shots would be on the same exposure, etc.

 

[Rat6P]

Any chance of some beam shots outside?

:bow:
I dont care about shots being amateur.
If you pop one or two others in the mix for some reference they can still be helpful.

 

[Lodogg2221]

Any chance of some beam shots outside?

:bow:
I dont care about shots being amateur.
If you pop one or two others in the mix for some reference they can still be helpful.

Well, Ive not done them before, but I will try to give it a shot tonight.
Trying to find a good spot to do them....want something with some distance, but need some reference points along the way...trees, buildings, etc....and not too many neighbors close to complain either.
If I cant tonight, Ill find somewhere tomorrow and just do some short range stuff.
Also have to get my camera figured out....I think I need to take it off of auto settings and just make it do the same balance/exposure for each shot, but Ive never done that before either.

 

[Lodogg2221]

Well, I got some, but they are truly awful.
I didnt bring my tri-pod, so very few are in focus.

Ill find a spot closer to home and try again tomorrow night, with my tripod.

I will say I was fairly impressed with the output of the MD10, considering its rated lower than the LF 380 lumen Incan, because to me, it seemed to light up a lot more, and throw a bit further.
I took shots of all my SF lights, and a couple P60 type drop ins, so for none of them to look good stinks. Took a long time, and it was COLD!

Oh well, what fun is it if I get it right the first time? LOL!

 

[Rat6P]

Your trying is what is appreciated!

I understand that beam shots can be a pain to get right. I am no good at them either.

For me beam shots don't really have to look like they have been done by a professional.
They don't even have to give an accurate representation (by itself) of the light in question.
It can be really hard to take a photo that actually shows what your eyes see.
As long as there are a few other lights to compare in the photos and the end result gives some sort of indication as to the difference in performance between the lights. That is what is important to me.
I usually have some of the lights that are being compared (in this case i have a LF 380Lumens DI). Hence I can extrapolate from the pictures and my own observations and have some idea of what the light in question may perform like.

Anyway don't catch a cold on my account.
And if you don't feel inclined to take them, don't.
I think your description of the MD10 v the LF 380 has partially convinced me

 

[Owen]

Also have to get my camera figured out....I think I need to take it off of auto settings and just make it do the same balance/exposure for each shot, but Ive never done that before either.

See if it has a "museum" mode.
Lumens Factory quotes bulb lumens vs. OTF for Malkoff, so less can be more...
I'm used to a 380 lumen HO-M3T from LF, so am hoping that the MD60 I'm waiting for makes a noticeable difference in output, and has good tint. I'll be really happy if it's up there with a MN16 on Li-ions.

 

[Lodogg2221]

Rat6P, that explains why the LF 380 lumen doesnt seem too much different than the Surefire MN11....or my 9AN Commander.
BTW, I had a ton of lights, all of mine actually....well, maybe not a ton, but I had the following:
8AX Commander, 9AN Commander, G2/P60, G2 KX4, G2 generic LED, G2X, E1B, LX2, 660 weaponlight with Solarforce, 4Sevens 123X2 tactical/cool, and of course both M3s with MD10, LF E0m3(whichever is 380lumens), MN10 and MN11.
Will try to do it tonight, weather permitting.
If the shots werent so blurry, Id be set, but you cant see the hotspots very well, so while you can see different tints and somewhat brightness levels, they dont tell very much at all....

Owen, it does. Ill try that tonight, with the tripod. Ill have to hold the lights by hand, but thats easy....holding the camera steady enough with no flash, at night is VERY hard to do.

 

[Illum]

beamshot shots should always be done using a camera on a tripod, the hard part is the varying sensitivity with color balance. If the camera shifts way over to the blue end [as it often does for LEDs] its difficult to fathom the exact intensity without some sort of benchmark. This is especially difficult without a camera capable of fully manual operations.

 

[beach honda]

Considering this module for my incoming M3. Thoughts? Or should I run the Incan setup on rechargeables for a bit?

 

[Mark-60]

I've got the MD10 in my M3 and it's almost identical to my LX2 in brightness and beam shape. I'll try do do some beam shots soon.

-Mark.

 

[beach honda]

I just ordered one of these for my M3. Anyone have beamshots? More opinions of this module also welcomed ...so :bump:

 

[kelmo]

I currently have mine in a M3 bezel mated to an M4 body.