I wanna build a Mag (C cell) lumen monster!! Please help!

[fire-stick]

I'd like to build a very powerfull 2C or 3C maglite..

I'm open to comments so please help.

Thanks

 

[Cydonia]

LED or incandescent?

 

[Nitro]

LED
2C Tri or Quad SSC P4

Incan
2C 5761
3C WA1185

 

[fire-stick]

I'd like to build an incan maglite.

Is the 3C WA 1185 prone to instaflash?

Also what is the 5761?

 

[021411]

I'm guessing it's the Philips 5761 bulb. It puts out 765 lumens according the specs I saw.

 

[Nitro]

I wouldn't worry about blowing a WA1185 if you don't do resistence fixes.

If you go with a 3C, get 3 AW C cells, and a WA1185 bulb.
If you go with a 2C, get 2 AW C cells, and a Philips 5761 bulb.

Also, either way get this.

 

[fire-stick]

NITRO- What is " resistence fixes"?

Is is very hard to change the switch out?

What's the advantages of going with the smart driver?

What about an ROP bulb with 2 li-ion C's would this compare to a WA1185?

 

[FILIPPO]

NITRO-
What about an ROP bulb with 2 li-ion C's would this compare to a WA1185?

WA1185 is really brighter than the ROP...

 

[Timson]

When we refer to resistance fixes - we mean removing the inherent resistance found in a standard maglite.

This is usaully done by ditching the PR base bulb set-up and replacing with one of KIU's high temp bi-pin bulb holders. (Eliminates a lot of contacts and subsequently reduces the resistance)

Resistance can be reduced in the switch itself by polishing all the contacts and applying pro-gold contact enhancer.

finally resistance can be further reduced by soldering a hefty piece of wire or copper braid from one end of the tailcap spring to the other end of the spring. (shortening the current path)


The switch can be removed easily, but unless you're loking to run 100W+ you should be OK with the standard switch
A good Mag 85 is running at around 37W. (3.4A)


Running a 'smart driver' will eliminate instaflash problems by regulating max output voltage.
Do a search for 'HOTDRIVER' for info.


ROP with 2C Li-Ions is a very impressive light, but the Mag85 with 3C Li-Ions is better still (about 25% brighter and about as white as an incan light can be)
If running a Mag 85 in this configuration I'd be inclined to run it 'regulated' - especially if using any of the resistance fixes mentioned above.


Tim.

 

[Nitro]

NITRO- What is " resistence fixes"?

Is is very hard to change the switch out?

What's the advantages of going with the smart driver?

What about an ROP bulb with 2 li-ion C's would this compare to a WA1185?

Timson explained it well. I would just add with a smart driver you can run the 5761 bulb in a 2C package, which is almost as bright (on paper) as the WA1185.

The 5761 has a more compact filament, so the beam is nicer (no need for a MOP). However, you're only looking at ~30min runtime with 2 AW's C cells. However the AW Smart Driver can be dimmed to 60% and 30% giving you more runtime.

Using AW's Smart Driver you'll have low resistance in the switch, and regulation. So you'll get the best of both worlds. I would run this driver in, BOTH the 2C-5761 and the 3C-1185. As of now, these two lights are the brightest Incan mods in those form factors with good runtime that I know of.

 

[Aircraft800]

The 5761 has a more compact filament, so the beam is nicer (no need for a MOP). However, you're only looking at ~30min runtime with 2 AW's C cells. However the AW Smart Driver can be dimmed to 60% and 30% giving you more runtime.

Using AW's Smart Driver you'll have low resistance in the switch, and regulation. So you'll get the best of both worlds. I would run this driver in, BOTH the 2C-5761 and the 3C-1185. As of now, these two lights are the brightest Incan mods in those form factors with good runtime that I know of.

The AW switch/smart driver is out? I thought it was still being machined? Thread please.

 

[Nitro]

The AW switch/smart driver is out? I thought it was still being machined? Thread please.

It's not out yet, but it's expected soon.

Read all about it.

 

[LuxLuthor]

I'm still puzzled by using 2 AW C's with a 5761 Philips bulb that draws 5.6A at 7.2V when the C's have a PTC shutoff at 5A. Maybe I'm misinformed on something. I plan on using 3300 mAh Emoli's, which don't catch fire or blow up.

 

[Pyzon]

I also want to put together a 2C or 3C incan monster light (maybe both ?!!) and plan to use emoli's and am curious how you all deal with the length and width of these cells. Would you start with a 3C or 4C host and cut off the tube and rethread ?
Also, a pal of mine has popped a ROP high bulb on fresh cells so AW's new device is a good solution I hope.

Thanks for any hints or suggestions.

Pyzon

 

[Raoul_Duke]

I'm still puzzled by using 2 AW C's with a 5761 Philips bulb that draws 5.6A at 7.2V when the C's have a PTC shutoff at 5A. Maybe I'm misinformed on something. I plan on using 3300 mAh Emoli's, which don't catch fire or blow up.

"Icantsee" tried the 5761 on 2 emolis in a 3C and it instaflashed.

Rop high was ok, so I guess Rop low should be good also.
I dont think he had resistance fixed anything - Hmmm ~ cant remember ~ ?

So I think the 5761 needs AW's soft start if using emoli's & that will be the best bet for 3C 9 thats what I planned on anyways)

The 2C with all the AW trimmings is a nice small option.......................

But I think the 3C on Emolis would run consistantly brighter, if although a shorter runtime, if that makes any sense; as even though the emolis are longer, and have less current capacity than AW's 'C's, They can deliver double or actually eight times the current than the 5671 needs.

I like Emolis as the safer option, but they are a bit of a pain to get in my C mags, ( although It can be done)

 

[Nitro]

I'm really getting tired of this Capacity or Current trade off. Why can't somebody make a battery that has both High Capacity and High Current?

Those Emolis look like solid performers, but their Size and Capacity make them a difficult option for me. Too bad they weren't the same size as C's. Then I'd consider using them in a 2C. But I can't justify (yet) to go to a 3C with ~30min runtime, when the 1185 and AW's will give an hour runtime.

 

[LuxLuthor]

Yeah, it's frustrating to always have to deal with the tradeoffs. I'm pretty much resigned to using Emolis in D Mags with 1" PVC to hold them and take up the space.

 

[Raoul_Duke]

Everything is a trade off.

The Emolis are sweet for multiple cells, with a heavy current draw, I went with them mainly because they were the only thing I could find with high voltage / high current draw (I pull 10A on them, but they will do about 40A)

I have 4 in my 6C mag with 64623, and I plan to stick 5 in my 7C mag;

But for 2C and 3C mags Aw's cells are the best way to go, as you dont have a lamp with high enough current draw in that voltage that requires Emoli's

 

[icantsee]

Raoul_duke; My 3 C had both switch and tailspring resistance mods.

Lex; I had seen emoli specs at 3000 mah..Mine tested 2900 and I've seen data on the RC sites showing 2900 as well. Was the 3300 mah a typo or have you sourced an improved cell?

Nitro; I'm very interest in AW's smart driver. I read in his info thread that Vin=Vout. That didn't sound like a regulation circuit. Did I miss something in the translation?

Inquiring minds want to know! I love this board!
John

 

[LuxLuthor]

Lux; I had seen emoli specs at 3000 mah..Mine tested 2900 and I've seen data on the RC sites showing 2900 as well. Was the 3300 mah a typo or have you sourced an improved cell?

Typo. Sorry, I meant 3000mAh for Emoli. A123 are only 2300mAh