MattK
Flashlight Enthusiast
No but that's the idea of the H>M>L version - since it wouldn't have memory it would be like a single mode every time you used it UNLESS you wanted to access the other levels.
IlluminaTi vs. Maratac AAA
- Thread starter applevision
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No but that's the idea of the H>M>L version - since it wouldn't have memory it would be like a single mode every time you used it UNLESS you wanted to access the other levels.
mcnair55
Flashlight Enthusiast
My recommendation is
LL (a real 1 lumen or less) -M (20 ish) -H (80 ish) in Ti I think would sell on CPF
and
M (20 ish) -H (80 ish) in Aluminum would sell on CPF and online.
I am not sure what age range buy what brightness but I have read here that the older you get the more light you need to see.
From what I have seen these models would handle the entire market (flashaholics and general population).
How would I spend my money? Well I have not bought the IllumniTi because the low is too high. If it is bright enough to hurt my dark adapted eyes then M-L-H is no different to me. Especially if the M-L-H version has a lower low then I would buy that over the L-M-H with a higher low.
What do I own? I have a lot of ITP A3s (30 ish) in all Aluminum except 1 SS. I have not bought the Ti. No point for me. I buy for user interface.
What would I buy? I am looking for a lower low AAA in any material to spend money on.
That said, I wonder if a AAA with LL-L-M-H in Ti would sell? For me- 0.5 lumen, 2-5 lumen, 20-30 lumen and 80-100 lumen.
Good Luck,
Rob
LL (a real 1 lumen or less) -M (20 ish) -H (80 ish) in Ti I think would sell on CPF
and
M (20 ish) -H (80 ish) in Aluminum would sell on CPF and online.
I am not sure what age range buy what brightness but I have read here that the older you get the more light you need to see.
From what I have seen these models would handle the entire market (flashaholics and general population).
How would I spend my money? Well I have not bought the IllumniTi because the low is too high. If it is bright enough to hurt my dark adapted eyes then M-L-H is no different to me. Especially if the M-L-H version has a lower low then I would buy that over the L-M-H with a higher low.
What do I own? I have a lot of ITP A3s (30 ish) in all Aluminum except 1 SS. I have not bought the Ti. No point for me. I buy for user interface.
What would I buy? I am looking for a lower low AAA in any material to spend money on.
That said, I wonder if a AAA with LL-L-M-H in Ti would sell? For me- 0.5 lumen, 2-5 lumen, 20-30 lumen and 80-100 lumen.
Good Luck,
Rob
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Ok, I bought the IlluminaTi, ITP A3 EOS SS and a ITP A3 EOS Titanium at the same time. The A3 SS was flawless from the get go and the A3 Titanium was also flawless but the action was a little stiffer. The IlluminaTi was basically dead on arrival. I tried the head on the other two bodies and got it to flicker a little but still no go. I then cleaned all threads on all 3 lights and relubed them along cleaning all contact points with DeoxIT including the springs. Still nothing. I then tightened the head down on the IlluminaTi and smacked it bezel down on a wooden butcher block. I then tried it again and it has functioned as it should ever since. Evidently something in the head was not making contact and the smack (bezel down) completed the electrical path that was not secure. The threads are nowhere as smooth as the ones on the ITP A3 Titanium but I am sure the will work in with time.
I EDC a Fenix L0D Q4 and like the M>L>H, but I often use low so I think I would be good with L>M>H as well. I would like a lower low than the Fenix, though. For me the H>M>L is the least appealing. Yes, it's nice for the "WOW!" factor showing friends, but that is rare to non-existent for me since none of my friends are flashaholics and they think I'm a bit looney (can't argue with them there). A programmable sequence would be nice but if I was voting for any fancy electronics I would vote for battery protection. I am starting to embrace NiMH rechargeables in a big way and I would love to be able to protect them from over discharge.
I think an aluminum version of the IlluminaTi would be great! I don't have any titanium lights but from what I have read I think I would prefer the smoother threads of the aluminum. I think the superior keyring attachment of the IlluminaTi style would be a big selling point. I don't like to carry any light heavier than a Photon Freedom Micro on my keys, yet the weak looking keyring attachment on the Maratac was a turnoff to me. Like I said, I can be a little looney. 😀 Add in the better PWM rate and it would be a winner!
My ideal lumen levels would be L (maybe 3-5 ish), M (25-30), H (90 or higher). I like the high to be as high as possible, while giving 20-30 minutes runtime and not cooking the light.
@Dan FO - I'm a big proponent of percussive maintenance too! :twothumbs It's amazing how often it's actually useful.
I think an aluminum version of the IlluminaTi would be great! I don't have any titanium lights but from what I have read I think I would prefer the smoother threads of the aluminum. I think the superior keyring attachment of the IlluminaTi style would be a big selling point. I don't like to carry any light heavier than a Photon Freedom Micro on my keys, yet the weak looking keyring attachment on the Maratac was a turnoff to me. Like I said, I can be a little looney. 😀 Add in the better PWM rate and it would be a winner!
My ideal lumen levels would be L (maybe 3-5 ish), M (25-30), H (90 or higher). I like the high to be as high as possible, while giving 20-30 minutes runtime and not cooking the light.
@Dan FO - I'm a big proponent of percussive maintenance too! :twothumbs It's amazing how often it's actually useful.
sol-leks
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Aug 10, 2008
- Messages
- 1,695
I think I've had some success loosening up the threading on my illuminati with help from the lovely ppl at cpf.
I cleaned the threads with a q tip and an isopropyl wipe.
I took out the battery and worked the threads for a while.
I lastly discovered that without a battery the threads worked pretty smoothly but once the battery was in it was tough again, so it occurred to me that maybe the spring was...not springy enough. So i used the battery to try and work the spring, and I think it def helped. So if anyone is having similar problems maybe this will help, I'm no expert but I don't see how it could do any harm.
Basically, when breaking in your illuminati, don't forget to work the spring too.
I cleaned the threads with a q tip and an isopropyl wipe.
I took out the battery and worked the threads for a while.
I lastly discovered that without a battery the threads worked pretty smoothly but once the battery was in it was tough again, so it occurred to me that maybe the spring was...not springy enough. So i used the battery to try and work the spring, and I think it def helped. So if anyone is having similar problems maybe this will help, I'm no expert but I don't see how it could do any harm.
Basically, when breaking in your illuminati, don't forget to work the spring too.
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Hooked on Fenix
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2007
- Messages
- 3,729
In my opinion, the brightness settings are fine where they are at. Leave them alone. 3 lumens is a decent usable low. It's about as bright as my old Gerber Infinity Ultra that is still used today as a tent light and reading light. The medium at 30 lumens hits the sweet spot for the XP-G for efficiency at nearly 160 lumens/watt (this sweet spot is between 60-80 mAh or 25-35 lumens). That would be the most used as well as the most efficient level. The high is about as bright as you can get while still getting over an hour on lithiums, and not cooking the l.e.d. too much.
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Beacon of Light
Flashlight Enthusiast
- Joined
- Dec 9, 2005
- Messages
- 2,087
I like this guy! We think alike! I was hoping someone would make a dedicated low level light. I do already have my Jetbeat Jet I Pro set to 2lumen/ 5 lumen / 7 lumen (not low enough though) that basically functions for that type of light and the LF2XT in a similar fashion. I would like to see a 3 level light: .02lumen dark side of the moon mode / .2 moon mode/ 2 lumen low mode. I might be the only customer of such a light though.
AKWolf
Newly Enlightened
Very nice comparison applevision ! What I really want though is an "Aluminati" configuration instead of Ti...:devil:
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Anyone else here feel that this light in Al or SS, with current UI and 1XAA would be one heck of an EDC.
MattK
Flashlight Enthusiast
or 1 x CR123a....
Woods Walker
The Wood is cut, The Bacon is cooked, Now it’s tim
Sure, why not. :twothumbs The iTP 3-mode EOS you sold me is great but don't own a twisty 1XAA and this might be nice with my other AA gear inside the pack like the GPS and headlamp. I find the 2 ish lumen lows good but that is just me. I would dislike more than 3 modes on a twisty. Thinking that would get old real fast.
applevision
Flashlight Enthusiast
Ohhh nice!
While we open that can, could I ask: what about the CR2 battery size? Not to get too OT, but that seems like a very efficient little package that is underutilized. I never even bought that NiteCore model but it makes me think... Battery gurus, are these efficient, pound for pound, or are the CR123s the way to go? /Off-topic...
MattK
Flashlight Enthusiast
Yah, I like CR2's also - I wish there was a CR1/2AA size - that would be an amazing micro flashlight power source. CR2's are almost as fat as CR123A's but are ~7mm shorter. CR2 Energy density is about the same as CR123A - maybe slightly lower.
CR1/3N are also interesting but simply don't have enough capacity. This is why many traditional keychain lights use 2 x CR2032 - great power density in a compact size.
CR1/3N are also interesting but simply don't have enough capacity. This is why many traditional keychain lights use 2 x CR2032 - great power density in a compact size.
kaichu dento
Flashaholic
That is exactly what my perfect AAA would be too, although I think I'd like closer to .02 > .2 > 5 > 50!
I would buy one of these too, but would definitely prefer 4 level as described above. Add one more level anywhere in the realm of 15-50 lumens and I could see myself carrying it all the time!
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lightcacher
Newly Enlightened
I have a Maratac AAA stainless steel and I don't see that the IlluminaTi offers any significant advantages over what I already have. When the cost is figured in, the Maratac still outshines it.
Hi Matt,
I'm excited about the possibility of an aluminum version as I am not a real fan of Titanium lights. One thing I would love to see as an option would be a small, reliable, mechanical clicky.
The LiteFlux has a small switch but it is not mechanical which makes it harder to use and there is no satisfying click. The Preon has a mechanical switch but it is huge and at least initially, does not seem very reliable.
To summarize, I love the current Maratac. I'm looking for my next light to be:
1) Small like the Maratac
2) L/M/H
3) Aluminum
4) Clicky (I know this will add some length)
I hope you can consider adding a clicky option.
Thanks,
Robert
I'm excited about the possibility of an aluminum version as I am not a real fan of Titanium lights. One thing I would love to see as an option would be a small, reliable, mechanical clicky.
The LiteFlux has a small switch but it is not mechanical which makes it harder to use and there is no satisfying click. The Preon has a mechanical switch but it is huge and at least initially, does not seem very reliable.
To summarize, I love the current Maratac. I'm looking for my next light to be:
1) Small like the Maratac
2) L/M/H
3) Aluminum
4) Clicky (I know this will add some length)
I hope you can consider adding a clicky option.
Thanks,
Robert
MattK
Flashlight Enthusiast
EngrPaul has written a detailed review:
XP-G R5 1xAAA Titanium Flashlights: IlluminaTi vs. Preon
lightcacher - 25-30% brighter, lighter, stonger material, longer runtime, superior design (keychain, tailstanding, etc) seem to add up to, "significant advantages," to me. YMMV.
We've toyed with the idea of a tailcap switch - frankly I'd be more inclined towards a momentary for a light of this size - it would be much smaller and more reliable and the nature of a light this size is you need it for a few seconds or maybe a few minutes - for a few seconds you have momentary, if you need it for extended runs it is easy enough to give it a twist.
XP-G R5 1xAAA Titanium Flashlights: IlluminaTi vs. Preon
lightcacher - 25-30% brighter, lighter, stonger material, longer runtime, superior design (keychain, tailstanding, etc) seem to add up to, "significant advantages," to me. YMMV.
We've toyed with the idea of a tailcap switch - frankly I'd be more inclined towards a momentary for a light of this size - it would be much smaller and more reliable and the nature of a light this size is you need it for a few seconds or maybe a few minutes - for a few seconds you have momentary, if you need it for extended runs it is easy enough to give it a twist.
