I'm looking for ways to mod the Magcharger charging capabilities....???

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2nd2none

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I am looking for ways to charge my Magcharger with the batteries still in it. I don't like the dumb(yes it's stupid & lame) charger Mag uses. I like the cradle but know there are problems with hooking up smart chargers to it because of the diode in the MC. Is there any know mods out there I can simply plug a connector in to the MC and use a smart charger??? Or even some other alternative reliable way of charging? I don't feel like taking the batteries in and out. I've been looking on CPF and the internet and not finding anything. The MC seemed to die off in the past few years. I also have Elektrolumens P7 3D led flashlight I would like to be able to mod to, to simply just plug a wire into it would be nice. Any help and info is appreciated, Thanks
 
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LOL, I just had a thread almost identical to this open a few days ago and got zero responses so I feel your pain. I was looking to do the same thing, and encountered the diode problem you mention. You can reference this thread for some pointers:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-MagCharger-Circuit-Can-You-ID-the-Components

Apparently you can bypass the diode, but personally I've never even seen it so I don't know how hard that would be (if it was super tiny). I've also read that if you charge under 1 amp it would be OK.. Again I have no experience with this, so maybe some others who do can chime in and help?

I know it's not much, but I hope I helped some haha.
 
I'm surprised theirs not a whole lot of info on charging it. I am skeptical about bypassing the diode, i don't want it shorting out. I had it apart before, the diode is really small, about the diameter of a pen refill and about 3/8" long attached to a small spring. I am tempted to try bypassing it, but I don't know the consequences would be if it did short out. I may have to buy another charger under 1 amp but I really don't want to waste my money if it doesn't work. The smart charger I have is 1 amp and 2 amp and 4.8v to 10.8v. I also read in those posts that the diode prevents the voltage from being read which may cause it from charging "smart". I'm surprised Maglite didn't already design a smart fast charger.
 
If your handy with electronics and the talk? , how about putting a resistor in parallel with the diode so the smart charger can sense a voltage? , say for a first time experimentation a 1k (1000 ohms) value .

Any markings on the diode? Schottky or a normal one and how is it wired up , in the positive lead series ? for example.

cheers
 
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Hi again 2nd , after playing around with a online calculator i realized that if the information is available for the smart charger , it i guess would need a minimum current to sense voltage , and 1k is a bit low if the battery voltage is around 7v? , in the milliamps 😳.

A 15k value at 7.5v? is only 500ua (microamp) , but for the smart charger that might not be enough , so that bit of info is relatively important .

Also the diode type is important as a Schottky has a drop of around .3v where as a silicon has .6v , that is why i mentioned it , so either way one would need to know that as i would suggest that before the outgoing sense resistor a similar make yet far smaller sized diode be placed in series with and before it , cathode pointing out(the band) back to the smart charger to balance the other diode voltage drop whether it be .6 or .3 volt .

Those silver looking rings , are they isolated from the body? as this method even if it worked would leave a voltage on one of them (the +) but depending on the size value of the resistance needed this would still hopefully be in the micro amps ie: at a bit more than the self discharge or close rate of the battery's if grounded (mag-charger body laying flat on a steel bench for example) maybe .

Overly simple and might not work but this i would try if i had one to play with 😱



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I cannot talk electronic language. If someone gives me directions on what and how to do something I could do it but I'm a moron with this language, half of your post went over my head, but I do know where your going with it. But here is a pic of the ring and diode. The diode says "N4001" on it black in color and one silver painted ring on it, you can see the small hole where it's inserted, the spring side goes in first(the small hole on the right facing up). The ring on the MC does have a plastic spacer to separate it from the other ring and the body of the MC you can only see one in the pic because I am missing one(plastic spacer). The pic is of an old style MC that was run over by my in-law, he donated it to me but unfortunately he threw out the head of it. It could have been sent in under warranty, I'm sure Maglite would probably charge for the missing parts now.
IMG_9618.jpg
 
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Ok thanks for the info so far , i can not talk the moron language so we will have to use another :thinking: :grin2: .

First if one is going to try to pass more than 1 amp through that silicon diode one would have to use a larger one , it looks like a 1 amper max , say a 3 amp just for a example , one could also wire all this up with the Mag in bits then if it works then a proper fitment would be needed (maybe enlarge the diode hole) as it is hard to see the size in the picture .
http://electronics.wikia.com/wiki/Rectifier_diode

It looks like the negative ring (the one still on)is actually part of the body itself , correct?

And negative from the battery pack is just straight to the body?

Diodes are cheap , you'd have a parts shop around somewhere , radio-shack i have the impression is a general one over there , Schottky diodes are a few cents more than silicon , a 3amp for starters either silicon or the other type and a small one (1n9148)that is 500ma or so for the resistor one but both the same type , silicon might be easier for the moment , or pinch/rob them off a tv board or other circuit board , therefore FREE ! , a local tv repair shop would chuck out stuff.

The sliver/white band is the cathode end and is the represented line across the triangle in da quality drawing 😛 , look up/search diodes.

In the manual/specs for the smart-charger it might mention how much current is drawn to measure voltage , i'd guess it might be as low as 100ua maybe even lower , one would need to find out due to the resistance value would want to be calculated at a worst discharged battery voltage then use that + the ua the charger needs and in a calculator a value would pop out .

Or just try a 1k first just to see if the setup charges correctly , i assume you do have a multimeter? first then go from there , as this high resistance thing is all about limiting the current at the ring for shorting concerns and current if it does short , thats all.

Appy playing about 2nd2none :naughty:

ps-Actually just looking at the picture again before i clicked send , your picture is not clear which is the earth ring even though the diode is orientated the correct way for a "positive" .
 
I don't much time right now to post a longer post at the moment(lunch break) The hole for the diode is about 3/32"( I'm guessing) And your right the ring for the diode is the positive ring the other ring does make contact with the body so there for is the negative ring. I don't recall seeing any real informative specs for the charger, I'll need to look for the manual if I can find it...? It's made by Powerizer and says Model# H01501020-US-1, Input 100-240 VAC, 50-60 Hz 2.0 A, Output 4.8-10.8 VDC 1 or 1.95 A. I'm sure this does not help I'll try yo find the manual later but I don't recall it saying anything about what voltage/amps it needs to read in order to charge... I couldn't find the instructions but here is a link of the charger and there is a PDF file on the bottom of the instructions, I could only make sense of 3/4 of it- http://www.batteryspace.com/multi-c...any48v-108vnimhnicdbatterypacks-ullisted.aspx
 
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Ok ' i will take a peek later .

But for now , i think just to see if the S/charger will fire up and charge i would try this ,

Battery pack only on the bench , get a older style resistor(1k 1/4 watt) and a 2 or 3 amp diode and solder them up as the diagram , then attach the S/charger and setup to the battery pack observing the correct polarity and see what happens , and if anything does , measure the final charged/terminated voltage , use the 1amp setting for starters.
1k is brown black red gold or silver.

If your actually going to a shop to get resistors , get a 1k 5k 10k 15k for later experiments , as i mentioned before just one is about 5 cents , packs of 5 are cheaper still

A 1.5a charge should charge them up from flat in around 2.5 hours which i gather would be far quicker than the standard setup.
@1a around 4 hours .

ps- that did not take long , in the specs sheet it is not listed , i was expecting a big sheet and reading alot , so one would just have to try from the lowest resistance (1k) , see if it starts? , then if it does just go higher until it wont start ,< from flat! :thumbsup:



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Here some reading
In general http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nickel-metal_hydride_battery

A different breed/manufacturer from the Mag/c one but enough information to see the charge rates
http://www.batteryspace.com/prod-specs/MH-12D3500.pdf (its small) i hope they don't mind 😗 , as until i saw this i was concerned about over a 1a charge but it looks like a 1.75a is or should be ok and that is very close to your s/chargers maximum .

I did not know 1/2 D's existed , but when is a 1/2 D not a half D? , when it is 3500MA AND NOT 5000MA :huh:

So fully charged a v+ of 1.4v to 1.45v x 5 = 7 to 7.2v should be seen but with that particular silicon diode around .6 v might be missing?

Flat it says is deemed 1volt per cell , 5 cells x 1= 7500264 🙂
 
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Doodling a bit Mainly for others to look at , a example of what could be done if the correct thing can be found yet? , a Bjt or similar bidirectional device with a very low "on" resistance ie: .01 ohms therefore hardly any heat if rated at 1-2 amp , if such a thing exists in SMD .

So , no battery flow in the reverse direction until a predetermined voltage is detected , in this Mc case 6-7v , the zener/resistor sets that value with some circuit juggling , then that v+ switches on the small transistor or whatever which in turn switches on the Bjt or whatever and allows bidirectional current to flow , only when there is a 6-7v input , and once that is disconnected setup to disconnect the battery completely from the + ring .

The resistance and capacitance at the front end is for ESD/RF false turn on protection , diodes in series have always annoyed meself for so long i am sure that by todays tech this stuff should be available and neutralize the voltage drop issue and other associated characteristics .

And if it ever fails out in the bush , one just puts in a diode again for emergency work .

Quality schematic aye!

Just a basic doodle .



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And on a small circuit board , a channel could be cut where the hole is and it slide down inside it? , depending on small it can be shrunk .

Ps- yes i see the small transistor output is in the wrong place , i doodle quick whilst its there , and worry about the accuracy far far later 🙂
 
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I have these diodes on my shopping list, I'm in the boone docks so it'll be about a week or so until I get them...
 
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2nd2none said:
I have these diodes on my shopping list, I'm in the boone docks so it'll be about a week or so until I get them...
Click to expand...

Same here to a degree , one reason i keep a few old tv and others circuit boards handy as i can not just walk into a shop just up the road.

And when/if i get close to a shop i need a list 😀
 
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