I'm pretty sure I have discovered a new Hotwire bulb

[missionaryman]

With the help of NorthernLights (thanks very much for ordering and delivering to Aus for me) and AWR's Hotrater I have discovered a new superbulb that I don't think anyone has used before.

Testing it in my regulated (9.5v) M-64 set up it is definitely brighter than the 1164 and costs about the same - best of all you can get it any time you want from a good online bulb retailer.

From AWR's Hotrater, dropping it into the same light that produces 1000 Torch lumen using the WA1164 you get 2000 lumen - that's right, double the 1164's output in a the same light.

Here are some pics I took, sorry these are about the worst beamshots I've done but it illustrates the point adequately:

This is the Host, a bored out 2D running 8 Titanium Powermax 1800's + an axillary cell that fit's neatly in the tailcap - a 4/5 Sub C 1900mah fitted with a Hotdriver set to 9.5v; you need this much juice as this bulb draws 7+ amps.

Here is a beamshot with the 1164 - 1000 Lumen:

Here is a beamshot with the new bulb - 2000 Lumen:

The new bulb is:

Osram 64430, 6v 35w 2000hr 650L, when driven at 9.6v that rises to almost 3000 B-Lumen or 2000 T-Lumen

 

[Glen C]

Well done Missionaryman and Northern Lights

 

[waynejitsu]

Please Pm where I can get this bulb and info on it.
thanks!!!

 

[LuxLuthor]

Nice score! Did you find a cheaper source than this $13 price?

 

[missionaryman]

Nice score! Did you find a cheaper source than this $13 price?

No sorry, in fact that was the only place I think we (NorthernLights) & I could find them and I can't even get any info on them at the Osram website.The other alternative is the Westinghouse 04424 which will give 1500 T-Lumen in the same set up drawing the same amps.Both the Westinghouse and the Osram are larger than the WA1164 and give a floodier beam. The light is very white though, whiter than the 1164 which is very white.

 

[LuxLuthor]

OK, I'll pick up a few. It is weird why some Osram bulbs on not listed on their website like the 64625 or 64275.

How did you guys find that bulb if it is not listed on either Osram or Bulb Connection? Very clever with the 4/5 Sub-C in tailcap. I think I'll make a pack and shrinkwrap it since I got that battery tab welder. What did you use to bore out the 2D ? I'm getting a selection of Brake Cylinder Hones that fit in your drill, and grind down with the three stones shown in these pix.

 

[FILIPPO]

wow!!!! I have some questions...

1)can I run this bulb in a mag3D with FM battery older(3d>9AA) + 1dummy cell?

2)does this bulb fit in a FM MOP reflector?

 

[Glen C]

Missionaryman, are you bringing this to the next meet?

 

[LuxLuthor]

I know you likely cannot push it quite this hard, but it's funny to see how it comes out in his Hotrater. I have 3 coming.

 

[missionaryman]

OK, I'll pick up a few. It is weird why some Osram bulbs on not listed on their website like the 64625 or 64275.

How did you guys find that bulb if it is not listed on either Osram or Bulb Connection? Very clever with the 4/5 Sub-C in tailcap. I think I'll make a pack and shrinkwrap it since I got that battery tab welder. What did you use to bore out the 2D ? I'm getting a selection of Brake Cylinder Hones that fit in your drill, and grind down with the three stones shown in these pix.

Thanks - the 8AA's just weren't getting anywhere near 9.6v even with the 1164
I got MirageMan to do it for me, your method will work, Proteaus did the same thing with his M4 to fit 18650's. Here's the tip - use a spray lubricant

 

[missionaryman]

wow!!!! I have some questions...

1)can I run this bulb in a mag3D with FM battery older(3d>9AA) + 1dummy cell?

2)does this bulb fit in a FM MOP reflector?

Flippo - you ca run this set up but I would tend to go for 9AA's of the high current variety with a Hotdriver as there won't be enough voltage from 8 and the initial burst will probably blow the bulb from 9

It will fit into any reflector with a 12mm opening. I used a countersinking bit in my drill press and reamed it from the outside till it was just big enough

 

[missionaryman]

I know you likely cannot push it quite this hard, but it's funny to see how it comes out in his Hotrater. I have 3 coming.

I'm pushing it to 9.45v at the bulb pins and I think it could handle the little bit extra. But mine is soft-start regulated

 

[missionaryman]

Missionaryman, are you bringing this to the next meet?

I'll probably not be at the next meet, got way too much on with 2 boys and a wife who rarely see me. And yous keep having them so far away from the western suburbs, I think we need some more low income flashaholics in Sydney so the meets aren't always so far from me.

 

[TorchBoy]

I know you likely cannot push it quite this hard, but it's funny to see how it comes out in his Hotrater.

You have learned. Bravo. :twothumbs

 

[Glen C]

I'll probably not be at the next meet, got way too much on with 2 boys and a wife who rarely see me. And yous keep having them so far away from the western suburbs, I think we need some more low income flashaholics in Sydney so the meets aren't always so far from me.

Sorry Missionaryman, I thought you were near Ryde. We may have to find a dark geographic centre

 

[Northern Lights]

Well, I did not get my 2D bored yet!! So I built a boring machine and it is working, been getting the bugs out of it on some old mag bodies. Soon I will have my 2dm64 and 2dm64430 up and running.
But my pet project is to build one in a 3D or 4C (C will take a chargin jack) with safe lithium A123system 3.3 V, 2300mAh, 26650 batteries taken from a DeWalt pack. If the 63440 does not handle the voltage, 9.9 volts, I can easily soft start and add enough residual resistance with an NTC to cut the voltage. AW's new driver will handle this very well with any of the options. The 63440 is about twice as bright as a 1164 and uses twice the amps, so AW's C cannot handle the 7+ amp draw for teh 63440 unless you start using parallel packs.
These batteries can be charged in series, no worry about balancing, safe lithium chemistry. Dewalt 36v pack uses www.a123Sytems.com
The 63440 is a G6.5 base. I make G4 to bipin sockets with mill-max connectors and it is a cinch to adapt a G6.5 with another model connector. I think I will soon offer my surplus G4s, I had to order materials in quantity just to make my own sockets so I have a bunch of extras.

 

[Northern Lights]

I know you likely cannot push it quite this hard, but it's funny to see how it comes out in his Hotrater. I have 3 coming.

This is more like what I get, at 9.9V I get about 2200+:

 

[LuxLuthor]

This is more like what I get, at 9.9V I get about 2200+:

Careful, you'll have Torchy-Boy ripping on you now for such a flagrant violation of his lofty ideals for that claim. (They seem to have run out of shrimps on the Bar-Bee, down under, so he has been learning what T-Lum's means.)

How did you find this bulb when it was not listed at Osram or Bulb Connect?

 

[Northern Lights]

Careful, you'll have Torchy-Boy ripping on you now for such a flagrant violation of his lofty ideals for that claim. (They seem to have run out of shrimps on the Bar-Bee, down under, so he has been learning what T-Lum's means.)

How did you find this bulb when it was not listed at Osram or Bulb Connect?

That is nothing, you realize this is the second bulb that out does the 1164 missionaryman has located in two months! Westinghouse 04424 was back ordered and he found the 63440 before our package came. I returned the 04424s. I do not know what his secret is, but he is gifted in thinking outside of the paradigm. I know he was keying in on the 2000 hour bulb life to find candidates. Bulb life is the path to a good candidate.
I keep looking to the RC guys to find possible battery combinations to incorporate into incan mods.
I notice in CPF that many confuse t-lumens with b-lumens or do not realize there is a difference. We all have seen posts about astounding outputs which are no more than bulb-lumens under the most ideal conditions. I like the hotrator because to some extent it takes into account real world resistance and battery sag. A half a volt at the bulb can make about 100 torch-lumens difference in out put on such things as the 63440, 1111, 5761 and 1185. Unless great care is taken in modding the swithces, sockets and tail cap you do not get that ideal out put because of native resitance in the circuit. Putting in a pr to bipin socket and reflector and a couple of batteries into a flashlight is not a sucessful mod, the output is impressive to the uninitiated but unless the other issues are taken care of there are a lot of lumens missing in action. I wince at claims, e.g.; 1185 with "over 1000 lumens out put"! What does that mean exactly? Stuff like that was so confusing when I first started playing with mods until I realized there were good technical discussions and very hopeful discussions residing in the forums.
There are other factors to consider too, that being what is the end goal, lumens or application. LL I believe you and I covered in another discussion that for instance the 5761 probably does not reach its full efficiency and brightness in a 2C configuration but if carrying a 2C size light is the consideration than the 5761 is probably the brightest combination for that host.
I think the 5761 had something to do with leading missionaryman down the road he travelled in a quest that brought him here to this light. You too have a great collection and know by direct and infered comparison from so much experience that if missionaryman says he sees double the out put then there is double the out put. The number crunching is just another support to the observer's report. Well, done to my friend missionaryman.

 

[missionaryman]

Thanks NL for the support & for your help in ordering and everything else, you're a top bloke.

I have mucked around with heaps of incan mods and have found this combination to be one of my favorites because it gives you a Hi/Lo option, keep an 1164 in the tailcap for low beam (1000 Lumens!).
Before this bulb I think 2000 TL at sub 12v was not a possibility.

It's not however a noticeable 100% increase in brightness to the eye for 3 reasons.
1. The eye is not a light meter and sees relatively so it looks brighter but not amazingly brighter, it does however get paper burning faster than the 1164
2. Voltage sag, even with "high current" Titanium Powermax cells the voltage sage at the bulb drops it to 9.4v so there's potentially another 200 Lumens in it.
3. The larger filament = a floodier beam so there's more light but over a greater area, there is however a tighter spot than say a 64623

My ideal set up for this light engine would be 9 x 4/3 A in a bored out 3.5D with a Hotdriver HP (re-rated to 9.6v you have about 70 watts), these cells are normally around 4000mah and will hold voltage under high currents. You'd get about 30mins regulated run time or nearly an hour with the 1164. Now that's almost practical, you'd just need to carry an oven mitt with you.