IMR Setups

[Owen]

Please quit trying to mommy someone who obviously knows what they are doing, and is trying to put out valuable information.
It's bad enough we can't get a current draw rating from the manufacturer, plus all the resulting BS about the tailcaps and battery suitability being spread around, already.
No need to treat everyone who goes to the trouble of buying these specialty cells and lamps as if they're too stupid to function on a basic level.

 

[jimhoff]

I kinda liked it actually. Light is cold now and it's dark out. I'll see about a iphone beamshot overnight....

 

[naked2]

Well jimhoff, you convinced me! :devil: I just ordered a IMR-E2!

 

[jimhoff]

iPhone won't lock exp or white bal:

15' to grill, 45' to tree

55' to car

80' to tree

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Please quit trying to mommy someone who obviously knows what they are doing, and is trying to put out valuable information.
It's bad enough we can't get a current draw rating from the manufacturer, plus all the resulting BS about the tailcaps and battery suitability being spread around, already.
No need to treat everyone who goes to the trouble of buying these specialty cells and lamps as if they're too stupid to function on a basic level.

We got the info from jimhuff's testing. I am suggesting that he does not repeat the test. He noted 132F for the cells after removing them froim the flashlight. Specs for the IMR note that 140F is the max that the batteries should be subjected to. jimhuff has 24 CPF posts and may not have a lot of experience using LiIon cells, or he may have experience, but a word of caution is not a bad thing. I have experience with LiIon, but not IMR's. I would not repeat the test again after the first run unless I knew that I could keep the cells cooler during long runtimes. Yes, I was also sort of miffed that we could not get the current draws for the new IMR LA's. We need all the info we can get.

Bill

 

[william lafferty]

I just got the LF IMR M3 bulb rated at 500 lumens. Recommended use is 2 x 3.7 v. LiMN rechargable batteries.

I mounted the light in an M6 with an M3 head, powered by 2 x IMR 18650 batteries. Amperage as measured at the tailcap was 2.23amps.

Then I put the M3 head and the IMR M3 bulb in a two-123 cell Leef body (M head and C tail)powered by 2 x IMR 123's. Amperage measured at the tailcap was 2.25amps.

This setup doesnt seem very impressive in the M6 body, but it's fairly interesting in the 2 x IMR123 size body.

 

[william lafferty]

a word of caution is not a bad thing.

Bill

Totally agree. The most experienced handler of dangerous materials can make a mistake. We're here to help each other

 

[mdocod]

wow, only ~2.25A?

The EO-M3T rated at 450 lumen draws more than that, something isn't right here.... either with your lamp, or with your measuring equipment... is this on fresh cells?

Eric

 

[william lafferty]

Hello Eric,

Just checked the cells. The IMR 123's were 100% on the ZTS tester, but the IMR18650's were only 80% on one cell and no reading on the other. (Not sure how that happened). Will recharge and try again.

bill

 

[Paul5M]

Overhyped? :whoopin:

 

[jimhoff]

I'm glad I got mine. I'm going for the IMR-M6 deal for my M3T. Haven't seen any hype but my own....

 

[william lafferty]

wow, only ~2.25A?

The EO-M3T rated at 450 lumen draws more than that, something isn't right here.... either with your lamp, or with your measuring equipment... is this on fresh cells?

Eric

Eric,

I recharged all the cells and they work fine in both lights. Now that both 18650's are working, the 2 x IMR18650 is much brighter. But now I cant get an amp reading at the tail of either light. Obviously, I am doing something wrong, but I have no idea what it is.

If you would be willing to take a proper reading on this bulb, Eric, I will be glad to send it to you with pre-paid return postage.

bill

 

[mdocod]

Eric,

I recharged all the cells and they work fine in both lights. Now that both 18650's are working, the 2 x IMR18650 is much brighter. But now I cant get an amp reading at the tail of either light. Obviously, I am doing something wrong, but I have no idea what it is.

If you would be willing to take a proper reading on this bulb, Eric, I will be glad to send it to you with pre-paid return postage.

bill

Don't worry about it, I'm sure others will be getting these bulbs who own a multi-meter, and I may even go ahead and order a couple to play with at some point here.

[edit in] I just read over in another IMR thread that others are getting the same ~2.3A reading, you are not alone.

Eric

 

[Mark@LF]

Okay, I am pi**ed off, I just deleted the entire reply which I was gonna post and I am going to write it again in a calm manner.

1. I will post the specs a bit later, I do not want any more speculations.

2. Stop pointing a finger at me for not posting the lamp current draws and such for the IMR Series, NO other companies post detailed lamps specs except for us. And I am getting bashed at by not doing it for one series?

3. Why don't I do it? I have said before, because I don't want you guys to "try" weird setups and hurt yourself or break your assets (light, tailcap, batteries, etc). AND people think it was BS.

So I am not gonna care anymore, you can have your fun.


Have a nice day,

Mark

 

[Nite]

I just bought two IR non contact thermometers, ones a keychain model, others a big one with laser

I foresee some problems when summer comes and people who are comfortable with these setups in the winter, encounter high heat and humidity away from home.. summertime.

Remember the only two LiCo explosions i know of during charging was two "experts" using hobby grade chargers, on the wrong settings.

When I try a 1000 Lumen bulb with 3xIMR16340 cell # one will be a dummy, in a 12P.

I need some type of Larger body for 3x18650....

 

[jimhoff]

I was warned. I'm not whining.

Playing with my E2D with the new IMR-E2 bulb and IMR-16340 batts. A couple times the light wasn't lighting and would make the "rattle" when I moved it. Because of the construction of the E2D and maybe the shorter terminal nub on the LA, there has to be good spring tension to make a circuit--otherwise, a rattle and no light.

I turned the light off and put it in my pocket. then i notice my pocket getting warmer. I take the tailcap off and noticed the spring has collapsed again and is very hot.

A couple questions:

how can the tailspring present it's self as a load when the switch is off?

Can I repair/upgrade this tailspring? The switch seems good.

The inside stinks now too 😀 like magic smoke.

Thanks.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Looks like your spring has lost its spring due to the heat, has collapsed, and the switching mechanism is compromised. Probably more damage you can not see.

Billl

 

[jimhoff]

Fluke multimeter set to continuity beep demonstrates good switch. I know there's a mystery and I could have put it in my pocket while on, but the light had a warm tailcap and not a hot head.

Anyway, the spring was brittle and broke off. I believe I can attach a magnet to make the battery meet the clickie with the spring gone....

 

[Mark@LF]

And there goes our first clicky.

I am sure you have read the information posted by AW about holding the light at all times to keep the heat in check. Also, my info posted about keeping the heat in check. Also info about the spring losing tension.

This is exactly why I got angry because I saw it coming. You were lucky nothing happened to the batteries leaving them rattling like that.

Can anyone in class tell me what happened when the batteries rattle and what it did to the tailswitch? :wave: (no reward for answering it correctly)

Let me tell you, you basically already wrote the batteries off the moment you used an IR therm and found the mid-body is 125 deg f. Read what AW and me both said. Keep the temperature in check and turn off the light when you feel is too hot (you "FEEL" meaning that your hands should be holding it). Simple instructions that is somehow so hard to follow.

"3-4 min very bright, head too hot to hold--tailstanding"
Should've stopped right here and nothing would happen. Why are you tailstanding it when the indications of overheating is so evident?
I guess there are things you must sacrifice in the name of science, eh?

My last 2 advice for you:
1. Don't try to "upgrade/repair" it by yourself, call SF and get a replacement.
2. Don't use a magnet to "fix" the contact, it is really dangerous.

Safety first!


Mark

 

[jimhoff]

Yes it's science.

I don't at all fault the products and I understand you not wanting them abused and the results posted. Yes all LF/AW warnings were readily apparent and understood by me as evidenced in my earlier postings.

I don't plan on any more cook-offs. Maybe my experiment will prevent other tragedies.

Now, class, rattling batteries? Tailcap spring hot while clickie off?