IMR Setups

[Mark@LF]

That's good, because it really hurts me to see my customer's properties being destroyed and good people such as yourself losing their hard earned money.

Most of all, I would like to stop any potential dangerous setups whenever I see one.

I am sorry if I have overreacted on this, but safe use of new setups are really important.


Cheers,

Mark

 

[chewy78]

jimhoff

Enlightened
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 28

Re: IMR Setups
Further IMR-E2 remarks....

1-2 min super bright.

3-4 min very bright, head too hot to hold--tailstanding

5-6 min head is burning hot tube is almost too hot to hold dimming a bit more.

6 minutes - head measures 150 degrees with IR therm. Mid-body 125 deg f.

7 min 155* head

8 min 160* head, 135* mid-body

9 min dimming to "M@g-yellow"

batts measure 132* and 3.62 volts each

all 4 IMR 123's still charging 😗


:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:whoopin::whoopin::whoopin:




.

 

[Fusion_m8]

Hi Mark:

Is the HO-M6R safe to use with 6xIMR16340s in the MB20?

**Apologies if this has been asked somewhere in this thread before, but i just couldn't find it.**

 

[AW]

Hi jimhoff,

Thanks for doing this test in the name of science :devil:. Mark didn't put the ' heat warning ' in all IMF lamps for no reason at all. It is for situation like this. Please note running a high power lamp in a small E2D will produce a large amount of heat which the light body will not dissipate adequately unless you are holding it in your hand during the entire burn. If the batteries are allowed to heat up to 60 degree C ( 140F ), you may run the risk of killing the cells. In your case, you are getting very close @132F. Judging from the discoloration of your tail cap spring, your switch is toasted from a ' short '. The bad smell and heat with no light should confirm it. Please see similar shorted switch here. Don't try to use a magnet in the switch to make up for the length or attempt to using the switch again. The hazard is not worth it. Please also follow the safety warning from equipment manufacturers.

Have fun and be safe!

AW

I was warned. I'm not whining.
I turned the light off and put it in my pocket. then i notice my pocket getting warmer. I take the tailcap off and noticed the spring has collapsed again and is very hot.

A couple questions:

how can the tailspring present it's self as a load when the switch is off?

Can I repair/upgrade this tailspring? The switch seems good.

The inside stinks now too 😀 like magic smoke.

Thanks.

 

[Mark@LF]

My thanks to AW for clearing things up. 🙂

Fusion_M8,

Using the HO-M6R on the stock M6 battery holder with 6 x IMR16340 cells will be perfectly fine. Just make sure you rest the batteries after the charge before you use the cells.

But why use HO-M6R when you have the IMR batteries and could use the IMR-M6?

Cheers,

Mark

 

[foxtrot29]

jimhoff

Enlightened
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 28

Re: IMR Setups
Further IMR-E2 remarks....

1-2 min super bright.

3-4 min very bright, head too hot to hold--tailstanding

5-6 min head is burning hot tube is almost too hot to hold dimming a bit more.

6 minutes - head measures 150 degrees with IR therm. Mid-body 125 deg f.

7 min 155* head

8 min 160* head, 135* mid-body

9 min dimming to "M@g-yellow"

batts measure 132* and 3.62 volts each

all 4 IMR 123's still charging 😗


:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:thumbsdow:whoopin::whoopin::whoopin:




.

Well, thanks for sacrificing your clicky in the name of science!

I plan to run the same setup, but for short 1 minute bursts of "WOW!" only... lol As soon as I saw the runtime and lumen value I knew the E2D with the IMR bulb and a clicky would just be a great toy, but not really a useful EDC light. Still amazing that this kind of light can now come from an E2D, even if it is only for a couple of minutes.

 

[lctorana]

Fluke multimeter set to continuity beep demonstrates good switch...

No it doesn't.

Try the ohmmeter function instead - you need less than 0.4 ohms' resistance, and preferably a lot less.

Continuiity beepers beep with anything up to 200 ohms in circuit.

 

[jimhoff]

0.0 ohms on the Fluke 85 zero'ed with shorted leads then test the switch. I think it's just the spring not up to the current. A better spring and a means to attach it are what I am seeking. It *appears* the McClickie might fit and it *appears* the spring might be heavier.

 

[Paul5M]

I’m sorry if I pissed you off.

Am I a “basher”? :shakehead Hell no
Am I a “straight shooter”? You're damn right I am


I like “science” but I don’t like “fiction”.

 

[Nite]

Just ran a MN21 With a pair of AW 18650 IMR in my new turbohead.

It worked because I used an AW soft start, no flash. The cells were also at 4.05 Im gonna try them full charged next.

Mark one problem tho. When trying to use the 700 lumen IMR M3T...the spring was 2-3MM shorter than the SF MN21..I was unable to get a circuit in a FiveMega body until I either switch to a SF lamp, or Had to use MAGNETS AT the tail end to make up for the space to the tailspring.

Normally when using magnets I put them in between the cells (cause theres no button top when I do) and then use a bit of painters tape to make sure they are isolated and insulated and wont move if I drop the light due to the inherent danger of magnets. I hate to have to do this at this power level to make an LF lamp work.

Mark, Solution? stretch the spring a bit?

I had no problem when using an IMR-9

MD how many lumens do you think Im getting from the 37 watt MN21?

also it came with an MN15 I think also. how much is that one>? time to check your guide..

 

[Nite]

wheres John Goncz:devil: when you need him😗:devil:

I wonder where he is and what he is doing today.

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Paul5M, it is over with. Mark apologized for his upsettness. Please do not continue it, particularly with such an attitude. You are now "baiting" Mark.

Bill

 

[DM51]

Paul5M... that attitude will get you nowhere. Your post is aggressive, confrontational and unpleasant. Please edit it and tone it down.

 

[mdocod]

Hi Nite,

An MN21 over-driven on LiMn cells should be achieving 700-800 torch lumens fresh from the charger.

 

[Nite]

Hi Nite,

An MN21 over-driven on LiMn cells should be achieving 700-800 torch lumens fresh from the charger.

thanks..this things blazing!

It seems way brighter than the 680 of an FM1794, but this a 2.5" diameter dish.

I wanna try the 1000 lumen IMR bulb from LF but right now im not getting contact without magnets in this turbohead configuration.

I also bought Non contact IR thermometer just to keep an eye on things, I also made sure its F and C

I spent alot on cells, softstart, new head, lamp, just to go bit brighter than what I have now..with less runtime. However it seems quite impressive and is now my brightest light. Im glad I can order more bodies from florida for myself and have both configurations ready when I walk out the door,.

If im going to walk my dog id bring an FM1794 driven by two LiCo with FM HS for super flood. Also soft start equipped. However in that case id have a SF 6P or FM body with two 16340 driving a P91 should i need it, added an off color cigar "LEEF" holder. i think its natural color.

I bet the LF lamp will work better in a 6P body with 2x16340 and a twisty.

I wonder if the Fivemega body is too long for that spring on an LF LA. I wish the main positive spring was a bit longer right now.

 

[divine]

I don’t care what power source you use. If you apply 7.4V, you’ll get 2.3A, period!

Not all batteries can put out 2.3 amps, and all batteries will dip in voltage when you put a big load on them. Did you ever notice how a car's headlights will dim when you start the car?

I can give you a watch battery setup that will be 7.4 volts and it will be about the size of one CR123 cell, I would like to see how someone can run a 7.4 volt, 2.3 amp setup with that battery setup.

IMR 18650s will handle a 2.3 amp draw much better than 16340's. Just like Mark says, bigger batteries.

The Battery Forum has lots of useful information.

 

[mdocod]

Analogy time!

16340 cell:
2 gallon tank, filled with air to 100PSI, 25' of 3/8" line, all 3/8" fittings.

18650 cell:
6 gallon tank, filled with air to 100PSI, 25' of 1/2" line, all 1/2" fittings.

Both tanks are filled to 100PSI (lets call it ~4.10V from the charger), but...

Which one runs a tool at the end of the line better?

Replace *tool* with *bulb* and it all becomes perfectly clear.

Eric

 

[Mark@LF]

Paul5M,

My post was not pointing at anybody and you have decided to take it personally. Your post is very aggressive indeed, probably the most aggressive thread that I have to put up with since I got on CPF. If you have some questions you would like to be answered, ask it in a well mannered way and I will do my best to help you it like I have always been over the years.

1. Who and when did anybody told you I melt my clicky on a 17 watt (IMR-9) lamp? I did say clickies were melt, but did I say which model of lamp I am using? And most of all how I managed to melt it?

When you are testing a product you have to test it in the most extreme conditions. I was using the IMR-M6 (10.8V, 3A) lamp and was using 3 sets of 3xIMR18650 testing it in a role on a custom 3x18650 body. The body got extremely hot, it killed the batteries and the clicky as a result. Therefore, I made it my responsiblity to warn users about this, it is much easier and reassuring to rule the clicky out for the entire line, so nobody will have the slightest chance to kill batteries or clickies. Many users depend their life on the torch in their line of work.

2. The IMR-9 was designed to be 7V 2.4A. Feeding it with 7.4V and higher should increase the current draw, not decrease it.

Naturally, one will now notice that he must put the resistence of the parts in between in mind when using a multimeter to check current draw, right?

That is exactly what I wanted to say when everybody is deadhard on "it is 2.3A on the meter" so the lamp is drawing 2.3A without considering any resistence issues, so I said on the other post that the designed current was not 2.3A. I wanted someone to come out and remind people that there are resistence in between, that's all. And it went out of hand up till this point.

I hope it will clear up on things as I am trying my best to explain it as calm as possible after your aggressive comment and questioning.


Mark

 

[Bullzeyebill]

Mark, sometimes you have just got to ignore what some people say, and try not to respond to them, particularly when they are so rude in their comments.

Bill

 

[cenz]

2. The IMR-9 was designed to be 7V 2.4A. Feeding it with 7.4V and higher should increase the current draw, not decrease it.

Naturally, one will now notice that he must put the resistence of the parts in between in mind when using a multimeter to check current draw, right?

That is exactly what I wanted to say when everybody is deadhard on "it is 2.3A on the meter" so the lamp is drawing 2.3A without considering any resistence issues, so I said on the other post that the designed current was not 2.3A. I wanted someone to come out and remind people that there are resistence in between, that's all. And it went out of hand up till this point.

I hope it will clear up on things as I am trying my best to explain it as calm as possible after your aggressive comment and questioning.


Mark

Hi Mark,

About resistence of multi-meter, I have a super cheap multimeter that it measured N62 is 3.25~3.45A @ a pair 4.17v IMR18650s. Then I changed to another "normal-price" multi-meter which measured a highter current 3.6~3.7A, is it a factor of "quality"?

Thanks