I have a hard time telling it from a well driven incandescent to be honest. I mean I’m still stubborn so I keep using my incans, but it’s very nice. A 95 cri led is nice
A couple years back a fellow put together a group buy of Malkoff drop in modules with SST emitters. I'd never heard of any SST since I was a little kid and SST was a company that made toy cars.
Intrigued by the idea of an LED that puts out around 25 lumens I got in on the action. A Brinkmann maxfire sat on my nightstand table largely unused since it had a special (and hard to find) bulb.
The Malkoff M61N4L arrived and when installed in the maxfire it was not easy to tell it wasn't a light bulb. The beam from that LED had a light bulb-esque shape to it. Glad I bought that module. If I recall it has a 4000 kelvin tint. And I'm sure in side by side white wall tests the difference between that and a maxfire bulb would be obvious. However, after sticking it in a flashlight head and pressing the on button it was treat to behold.
I still prefer this dude……
View attachment 27478
A generic 2c cell using a PR2 bulb
If the SST is the same tint as the XP-G2 M61W was I prefer the 4000 kelvin.
The XP-G warm version had a look of used batteries in an old incan light where XP-GN had a look of brand new batteries in my stock SureFire 6P.
Either way I like the old school type incan-esque beam pattern of the SST.
Yeah I agree completely. A warm 3,000 k LED just does not look right. To me. Others can disagree. But I do see a 3000k LED as a incandescent with almost dead batteries.
I'm not big on PRC clones, besides, putting a Malkoff in a cheapo knockoff feels like putting lipstick on a pig. I've been keeping an eye out for a genuine Surefire for sale, but I always seems to change my mind when I think about the total cost in the end.A flashoholic doesn’t have a P60 host? Any 6p/g2 will work. Even a g2 clone from the PRC works fine since it’s mechanical. And Malkoff makes a nice one too with hi/lo.
An old-school G2, sure, heat extraction will be a problem since it's almost wholly plastic. A 6P on the other hand can sink heat if the dropin is designed to make good contact with the head.A p60 host should stay incan. That host is designed to isolate the light engine from the host.
This is generally true, however the P60 lamp formfactor has become one of those enduring things - like ¼-20 screw threads for camera mounts - that's sprouted a cottage industry around it continuously developing new products around it.I just feel that with so many other options out there that are designed from the ground up as a heat sink for the emitter, I see no reason to specifically buy one just to turn it into an LED light.
A p60 host should stay incan. That host is designed to isolate the light engine from the host. Exactly what you want with an incandescent bulb. Exactly the opposite that you want with an LED. With how many good made LED lights there are out there, there's no need to do this. Maybe 15 years ago when LEDs were new
Does the PolyStinger come in high CRI?You should try a streamlight polystinger before making that claim!
But yes they are nice lights. I'm just saying that using a light that was specifically engineered to keep the drop ins heat away from the body is a bad choice when making a high powered led light. Something where the pill threads into the body or head is much better. Maglites are the same with the pr based LEDs bulbs that people.used years ago. Not to mention p60 lights are so good as incandescents. Why put an inferior led in it😁