Incoming - What do you have coming in the mail??

[Buff]

You know it's the season (2 weeks till Christmas) as my normal 3-4pm mail delivery was 7:30 (2hrs after dark) . I rarely have to use a flashlight to get the mail. My sons FedEx delivery was caught on his door cam at 9:59pm hours after he went to sleep? Crazy town!
Anyways my final flashlight delivery, a Olight Seeker 4 Mini and a couple clips for my two S1R Baton II's arrived in the dark. I am happy and relieved. Happy hunting in 2025!

I just love the black with the blue clip. Originally came with a black clip

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Acebeam E75 Nichia just showed up.

Charging it right now. (Feels odd,seeing a USB cable stuck in the side of my light.)

 

[ilikeguns40]

Sent a nice 219b SW45k D200 led to Robyn from Peak led solutions to have another build done. SS Eiger head narrow optic, I'll have that to look forward to hopefully next year

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Goal Zero Lighthouse Mini lantern.

Thought it would be useful if the power goes out.

Got it for $30 from Amazon.

 

[pnwoutdoors]

VLEDS LED 5000K 30mm festoon bulbs -- For the overhead/map lights in the car. Claimed 170 lumens output. Installed them the other day. They put out a great amount of light, but it's not overwhelming. At 5000K, it's clear enough to easily read anything (map, book), bright enough that even at dusk or dawn it's easy to see. Very nice change, from the factory bulbs. Highly recommended.

 

[xcandrew]

Got a Lucifer L+ in the mail on Friday. The green anodizing is really pretty. I already have over 10 hours of use on it outside, most of it at a regulated 1800 lumens, which I've gone as long as 2:35 so far without a stepdown. Should be good for about 3 hours at 1800 lumens with the 35Wh, 2x21700 battery pack that I chose. The 3500 lumens mode also holds steady without stepdown when moving faster than a walk (12.5 minutes at a walk in current temps), but my activities (ski/run/walk/bike) are in the 2+ hour range, so 1800 lumens is my primary setting. At 3500 lumens, it is only warm to the touch in the below freezing outdoors here—there is nothing to touch but fins, not counting the button on top or the front where I don't want to cook my fingers.

 

[M@elstrom]

Pulled the pin on a Lumintop D1, still unsure if I prefer it over it's little brother the Tool AA 2.0 🤔

 

[boo5ted]

Two new lights From Exceed Designs. An R4 Rampant, stonewashed Ti, 519a DD, metal reflector and sapphire lens and an R8 stonewashed aluminum, SFT40, metal reflector and sapphire lens.

 

[ilikeguns40]

Two new lights From Exceed Designs. An R4 Rampant, stonewashed Ti, 519a DD, metal reflector and sapphire lens and an R8 stonewashed aluminum, SFT40, metal reflector and sapphire lens.

Definitely let us know how they are. More than likely I will get one, I want another Exceed Designs utility knife first though lol

I'm a little hesitant on the rocker switch. I have a feeling it could get easily turned on in pocket if bumped, but who knows

 

[boo5ted]

Definitely let us know how they are. More than likely I will get one, I want another Exceed Designs utility knife first though lol

I'm a little hesitant on the rocker switch. I have a feeling it could get easily turned on in pocket if bumped, but who knows

From what I've seen/read it only works of the light is in. Tail switch is the om/off rocker works the brightness.

Have you seen the gold flake carbon one? 😍

 

[ilikeguns40]

Interesting.

Yeah it's nice haha. I'm looking at trying out the Razor M with magnets.

 

[PaladinNO]

My new..."work light" for my car is finally underway! Along with 0º and 15º orange covers.
Additional high beam when the cops ain't looking.

Triple-R 24 Elite

The latest generation of the Triple-R range, delivers exceptional, long-range auxiliary LED automotive lighting. Initially developed for the uncompromising requirements of professional track and rally motorsport, the range has evolved to become a firm favourite across the passenger car, 4x4...

www.lazerlamps.com

Amber Lens (Triple-R)

The amber lenses for the Triple-R lights alters the standard 5000 kelvin colour temperature to selective yellow. Available either as a flat (0 degree) or reeded (15 degree) lens cover, the amber lenses are regarded as improving visibility in rain, fog, and snow conditions. The lenses are made...

www.lazerlamps.com

Will replace my current 21600 Lumen 40" spot bar.
I suppose this is the one place that understands the numbers when I say I will soon have roughly 65.000 raw Lumen at my fingertips when I drive.

Disclaimer:
I don't consider myself irresponsible on the road. I know this light output is enough to cause accidents, and I take that risk very seriously. I have installed separate, illuminated rocker switches on all my optional high beam lights, and I have measured the lighting distance to better gauge when to turn the lights off with the handle on the steering column.

I am also positioning the lights myself so they don't cause glare for me, and I stand in front of them to try for myself how powerful they really are, so I know how they feel facing at various distances. And I like to think I am doing a good job on the road, because I am almost never flashed at (even by truckers) and I almost always dim down before the other car. But mistakes happens, and have happened, where I unfortunately have not been able to dim down in a reasonable amount of time.

 

[F89]

My new..."work light" for my car is finally underway! Along with 0º and 15º orange covers.
Additional high beam when the cops ain't looking.

Triple-R 24 Elite

The latest generation of the Triple-R range, delivers exceptional, long-range auxiliary LED automotive lighting. Initially developed for the uncompromising requirements of professional track and rally motorsport, the range has evolved to become a firm favourite across the passenger car, 4x4...

www.lazerlamps.com

Amber Lens (Triple-R)

The amber lenses for the Triple-R lights alters the standard 5000 kelvin colour temperature to selective yellow. Available either as a flat (0 degree) or reeded (15 degree) lens cover, the amber lenses are regarded as improving visibility in rain, fog, and snow conditions. The lenses are made...

www.lazerlamps.com

Will replace my current 21600 Lumen 40" spot bar.
I suppose this is the one place that understands the numbers when I say I will soon have roughly 65.000 raw Lumen at my fingertips when I drive.

Disclaimer:
I don't consider myself irresponsible on the road. I know this light output is enough to cause accidents, and I take that risk very seriously. I have installed separate, illuminated rocker switches on all my optional high beam lights, and I have measured the lighting distance to better gauge when to turn the lights off with the handle on the steering column.

I am also positioning the lights myself so they don't cause glare for me, and I stand in front of them to try for myself how powerful they really are, so I know how they feel facing at various distances. And I like to think I am doing a good job on the road, because I am almost never flashed at (even by truckers) and I almost always dim down before the other car. But mistakes happens, and have happened, where I unfortunately have not been able to dim down in a reasonable amount of time.

I wouldn't consider it responsible either. That's a huge amount of light, massive flood at that. Light bars are off road only in my opinion (or secluded rural roads at best).
To avoid these "mistakes" you should have your high beam trigger the relay to your auxiliary lights (so they only come on with the high beam). Much easier to control.
A switch should also be included in the circuit so you can switch the auxiliary lights off all together so you can use your high beam independently. I'm assuming you have your lights wired this way based on your description.
This and having better designed driving lights with reasonable output would be a better idea in my view.
Must be terrible going from a massive, bright wall of light driving at speed then having to go back to low beam if there's oncoming traffic. I'd imagine there'd be a lot of eye adjustment needed. I'm sure it'd be worse for other drivers though.

 

[PaladinNO]

To avoid these "mistakes" you should have your high beam trigger the relay to your auxiliary lights (so they only come on with the high beam). Much easier to control.
A switch should also be included in the circuit so you can switch the auxiliary lights off all together so you can use your high beam independently. I'm assuming you have your lights wired this way based on your description.
This and having better designed driving lights with reasonable output would be a better idea in my view.
Must be terrible going from a massive, bright wall of light driving at speed then having to go back to low beam if there's oncoming traffic. I'd imagine there'd be a lot of eye adjustment needed. I'm sure it'd be worse for other drivers though.

Here in Norway, it's practically "do as you like".
Legally, auxiliary high beams needs to be labelled ECE R112. If the lights does not have that label, connect them as "work lights." Needs to be amber or white light, needs a separate, illuminated rocker, must be adjustable, and front and rear parking lights must be illuminated when in use.

I know I didn't make it clear, but yeah, the rocker handle on the steering column will turn off everything - high beams and all auxiliaries.
I insisted the garage who did the wiring to set it up like that. I did absolutely NOT want 2 buttons to press to turn things off when I drive.
And I can turn off every auxiliary light, and drive as the factory intended - as a control freak, I got separate buttons for everything - if I need it.

From the left: additional low beam (illegal - will be replaced to new "work lights"), fog lights (illegal - will be replaced), high beam flood lights (4x Rigid D-XL Pro 322113), roof spot light (illegal), roof work light (same light, but legal), cargo bay subwoofer amplifier (got a double 10" back there, right up to the seats).



Everything is wired independently, with separate rockers, wires, fuses and relays, but to actually turn things on or off, I have to use the handle on the steering column. The exception - and this is where I have made the mistake during use - is the roof bar. To make it legal as a work light, it needs a separate illuminated switch - a rocker switch that is right next to the other rocker I have for that light...

So the roof bar have 2 separate rockers - one for (illegal) road use through the handle bar, and one for legal use, directly to the battery.
And if I push the wrong rocker by mistake...the handle bar no longer does a damn thing for the most powerful light I have.
I have different colours on the rockers to prevent this, but they are completely covered by the steering wheel when turning at certain angles.

My car didn't pass the vehicle control last time (and is now considered illegal to use). Which, ironcally, was not due to too powerful lights, but because my lights did not have the right certification for their use (my fog lights and reverse lights).

You want the real irony of it all? I HAVE TO install even more powerful lights on my car to make it legal, only because of the certification.
Don't go look for logic, there is none. And as for my old halogens vs new LED-lights, I was told by the vehicle inspector to just slow down.
The law didn't allow for me to solve the issue by adding more low beam lights (which I will do anyway, calling them "work lights" and have them wired as such), or change the bulbs I have to LED (which I cannot do because of the car design).

But honestly, I still consider myself more responsible than a random person having a legal E-marked LED-bar fitted to their car by a garage, never seen the light before and not stood in front of it, and using it as they would regular high beams. They have no clue how powerful it is or how bright it is to other drivers. I know how powerful my lights are, and I use them as such. And I see others on the road who also have spent...excessive money on lights using them much more considerate than many average Joes and Janes.

 

[F89]

Here in Norway, it's practically "do as you like".
Legally, auxiliary high beams needs to be labelled ECE R112. If the lights does not have that label, connect them as "work lights." Needs to be amber or white light, needs a separate, illuminated rocker, must be adjustable, and front and rear parking lights must be illuminated when in use.

I know I didn't make it clear, but yeah, the rocker handle on the steering column will turn off everything - high beams and all auxiliaries.
I insisted the garage who did the wiring to set it up like that. I did absolutely NOT want 2 buttons to press to turn things off when I drive.
And I can turn off every auxiliary light, and drive as the factory intended - as a control freak, I got separate buttons for everything - if I need it.

From the left: additional low beam (illegal - will be replaced to new "work lights"), fog lights (illegal - will be replaced), high beam flood lights (4x Rigid D-XL Pro 322113), roof spot light (illegal), roof work light (same light, but legal), cargo bay subwoofer amplifier (got a double 10" back there, right up to the seats).

View attachment 71673

Everything is wired independently, with separate rockers, wires, fuses and relays, but to actually turn things on or off, I have to use the handle on the steering column. The exception - and this is where I have made the mistake during use - is the roof bar. To make it legal as a work light, it needs a separate illuminated switch - a rocker switch that is right next to the other rocker I have for that light...

So the roof bar have 2 separate rockers - one for (illegal) road use through the handle bar, and one for legal use, directly to the battery.
And if I push the wrong rocker by mistake...the handle bar no longer does a damn thing for the most powerful light I have.
I have different colours on the rockers to prevent this, but they are completely covered by the steering wheel when turning at certain angles.

My car didn't pass the vehicle control last time (and is now considered illegal to use). Which, ironcally, was not due to too powerful lights, but because my lights did not have the right certification for their use (my fog lights and reverse lights).

You want the real irony of it all? I HAVE TO install even more powerful lights on my car to make it legal, only because of the certification.
Don't go look for logic, there is none. And as for my old halogens vs new LED-lights, I was told by the vehicle inspector to just slow down.
The law didn't allow for me to solve the issue by adding more low beam lights (which I will do anyway, calling them "work lights" and have them wired as such), or change the bulbs I have to LED (which I cannot do because of the car design).

Yeah, that's madness regarding the certification thing.

Swapping out halogen for LED (into halogen optics) is always a bad/illegal idea.
I actually really like my halogen lights (2021 model vehicle). I prefer driving behind halogen for various reasons, even selected halogen over LED when having the choice.
I did install a modest pair of driving lights (also halogen) but they're just a bonus really.

Made me think how much total light I've got compared to your integrated sun on your rig (65000 lumens or some such 😀).
Factory lighting I've got 3000 in the low beams, 3500 in the high and 1000 in the fogs. Add this to my driving lights at another 3000 and I've got a petty, by comparison, 10500 lumens.
I have to say I can see pretty well under various conditions and weather though.

 

[F89]

I fell behind on a couple of additions/edits to your post as I was typing.
All good, stay safe my friend. I'm happy to hear that you're at least very mindful/considerate of the potential safety risks.

 

[PaladinNO]

Swapping out halogen for LED (into halogen optics) is always a bad/illegal idea.
I actually really like my halogen lights (2021 model vehicle). I prefer driving behind halogen for various reasons, even selected halogen over LED when having the choice.

Made me think how much total light I've got compared to your integrated sun on your rig (65000 lumens or some such 😀).
Factory lighting I've got 3000 in the low beams, 3500 in the high and 1000 in the fogs. Add this to my driving lights at another 3000 and I've got a petty, by comparison, 10500 lumens.
I have to say I can see pretty well under various conditions and weather though.

I don't consider replacing the halogens anymore. Optics is one thing, but another is...when it's a few negative degrees outside, and snowing, that snow freezes on the lenses. And none of my LED-lights get hot enough to melt it. It takes about 10 minutes in those conditions to render all of my auxiliary LED-lights completely useless. Same in fog. The floody D-XLs just makes it worse.

I still don't like my halogens. 2007 model. Adding auxiliary high beams (Hella Rallye 3003 halogens at the time) was done within 3 months of the purchase. I live in the country side, with lots of narrow dirt roads and lots of wild life (rabbits, foxes, elk, supposedly a couple wolves, and some really bloodthirsty squirrels). And winter here is about 8 months.

...And I didn't include factory Lumen. With everything, it's ~70.000 raw Lumen forward, and about 4000 Lumen in reverse (illegal LED-bulbs + 2 illegal aux lights).
Is it actually a good idea to have that much light at times? Eh, debatable. I know all my lights on paper draws about half of the alternator output. And I can hear my engine changing pitch if I turn the lights on with the car idling.

 

[F89]

Rural roads and difficult conditions, sure. Knocking around the city, suburbs or highways with a light cannon, not so good.
Yeah I didn't think you'd included your factory lights in the total.

Those Rallye must be nice in cold and snowy conditions. Something similar in a fog pattern mounted and aimed low would be nice also.
I can imagine in fog turning those LED light bars on would be like placing a white wall in front of the vehicle.

Your alternator situation doesn't sound ideal but hopefully it's reliable (40 or 50A of lights?).
I'd keep an eye on the belt from time to time (a good idea generally) and I'm assuming your lights are earthed to the vehicle body rather than battery negative. This is of particular importance if your vehicle has a smart alternator otherwise it won't sense the load and account for it accordingly.

Another tip, if it's of any use to you, is to use relays with a diode. Particularly helpful on more modern vehicles with heaps of electronic systems. You don't want that back flow of energy when the relay is switched off damaging expensive systems.
Could range from damaging something or even just an annoying quirk like some lights flicking on for a moment.
With multiple auxiliaries (lights) it's a good idea in general to use relays with a diode built in.

And keep those blood thirsty squirrels at bay.

 

[AMD64Brunette]

Two new lights From Exceed Designs. An R4 Rampant, stonewashed Ti, 519a DD, metal reflector and sapphire lens and an R8 stonewashed aluminum, SFT40, metal reflector and sapphire lens.

Stop tempting me. The R8 in stonewashed titanium (with a Nichia 5000K LED) is on my Christmas list.(Just need the money.)

 

[boo5ted]

Stop tempting me. The R8 in stonewashed titanium (with a Nichia 5000K LED) is on my Christmas list.(Just need the money.)

Got shipping conformation yesterday, hopefully they arrive before Christmas! 😁