Inova switch problems

[hikari]

I have two Inova 5 LED lights (can't remember the model name--X5, I believe). I have the old version with the "twist the head to turn on" as well as a newer one which has a rubber tailcap switch.

Both switches suck! Almost immediately after being put into service, both light switches became very unreliable--sometimes the light comes on, most of the time it doesn't. Shaking, banging, etc. doesn't seem to help.

I'd be much obliged if anyone has any solutions for these problems. (Is anyone else experiencing difficulty with these lights?)

 

[James S]

My 5led model doesn't suffer this this, at least not yet. I consider the rubber push button to be mostly useless.

In my other Inova though, there are 3 things that have caused it trouble. The little nub on the flexible metal contact become fouled with oxidation or something and needs to be rubbed clean, I use my finger but a pencil eraser would work as well if you can't get your finger in there.

On mine, as far as I can tell, the electrical contact from tube to endcap is made through the very end of the battery tube, not along the threads which seem to be anodized. or at least coated. But the very end of it is not. mine gets covered with something once in a while that also messes with the connection. I clean that with a little diamond file, but an emery board or bit of wet/dry sandpaper or something would work too. I don't know what collects on there but it definitely helped mine.

Lastly something has recently coated the entire battery spring with a foggy rough something. I don't know if the metal of it is reacting to some out-gassing from the battery or what. But I had to file the very end of the spring too so that it could make contact with the battery.

I've had to do this stuff numerous times to keep them running.

 

[hikari]

Hah! I think I figgered it out. After reading your post, I got to thinking about the contact between the body/batt tube and the head (in the case of the old model) and the between the body and the tailcap/switch (on the newer model).

First, the old model. All the battery contact surfaces had been cleaned before; but this time, I degreased the threads on both the head and tube, removed and cleaned the o-ring. Lubed the o-ring and replaced; after cleaning and drying threads, lubed with conductive lubricant and installed batts and tested. Wonder of wonders, it worked. I'd forgotten that the older model, the switch is to turn the head counter-clockwise for "on." What I don't like is that you gotta turn that bugger nearly all the way off the body for the switch to activate. Oh well...life is tough isn't it?!

As for the newer version, did the same thing about cleaning. After re-greasing the threads (_conductive_ grease), it seems to be much more reliable.

Funny that these guys should have been so temperamental. I hadn't applied any foreign grease or other substances. The amount of dust/grime collected in the threads certainly wasn't excessive. I suspect that it's just that the bearing contact surfaces don't do it too well. I think I'm gonna stick with my SF's and their compatible custom parts. I need absolute reliability and at this point, I no longer have any faith in the Inova. I'll retire them to utility use at home.

 

[greenlight]

Sometimes my X1 blacks out. Then a hard whack against my knee fires it back up again. What is this all about?

 

[chmsam]

Short of taking apart switches, try this.

Open up the light and remove the battery(-ies). Examine the contacts and condition of the end cap. Then, use a bore light or fiber optic (hey, this is CPF. We all got one or the other if not multiples of both) to examine the tube and the contacts.

Clean the contacts even if you don't think they need it. Oxidation may not be readily visible. Easiest thing to do is to spread out some paper (easier clean up) and use a soft (repeat, soft) pencil eraser to clean them. Gently tap the eraser residue out on to the paper.

Alternatively, use a spray electrical contact cleaner/de-oxidizer. Less is usually more than enough. However, if you use a spray, wait at least five minutes before you reassemble the light. This will allow all the spray to evaporate and/or dry. Failing to do this could be interesting, as some cleaners are flammable. Just for grins, every once in a while read the instructions and data sheets they pack with lights, batteries, and chemicals. Clean the batteries, too, but don't short 'em.

This technique has worked well for me for many years, but even better when it is used as preventive maintenance.

When all else fails, though, never, ever force anything. Always get a really, really big hammer. That's the way my dad raised me. You can hardly see the lumps anymore.

 

[Hans]

[ QUOTE ]
James S said:
On mine, as far as I can tell, the electrical contact from tube to endcap is made through the very end of the battery tube, not along the threads which seem to be anodized. or at least coated. But the very end of it is not. mine gets covered with something once in a while that also messes with the connection. I clean that with a little diamond file, but an emery board or bit of wet/dry sandpaper or something would work too.

[/ QUOTE ]

I find rubbing the end of the battery tube on a clean piece of paper works pretty well, too. I do that once a week or with my X1 which I use a lot, and there's almost always some black stuff rubbed off. Since I started doing that I've had hardly any problems with the X1 not lighting up anymore.

Hans

 

[voodoogreg]

My inova's all suck (which is why there on permanent loan to family) laughable switch and beam color is always on the too blue side. VDG

 

[desert.snake]

It seems that one of the reasons has been found. On my copy, the problem is in the back of the contact pin, it is beveled and presses unevenly on the spring, beveling it to the side. The working stroke of the pin decreases, it begins to jam, and accordingly, the contact pressing force is greatly weakened or disappears.

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