Input wanted for Modding 1X123 light

[fred0109]

I just received a small $10 light from an ebay auction and of course the first thing I did was tear it apart. The light construction is good, for a 10 dollar light from China. I would like some input as to what type of mods are possible, please keep in mind that I am new to this and simplicity is a factor. The light seems to be set up like a cheap SFe1e and the bulb is kept in place by a module similar to the Pelican M6 screw-in type(only smaller in diam). The reflector can be removed once I get a spanner wrench, and a NX05 optic seems to match up perfect.
I have a handful of HD red Luxeons left over from previous project, could one of these be run direct drive on 1x123?
I would be interested in hearing/reading suggestions.
Thanks and here is a pic of the light.

 

[fred0109]

bump

 

[milkyspit]

Short answer: yes, probably could run that red Luxeon direct drive. Make sure it's got some good heatsinking, though! Also might want to hookup a DMM to check how much current flow you're getting, and install a small resistor if excessive.

 

[fred0109]

Thanks Milky,
Anyone else???

 

[McGizmo]

As Milky stated, make sure you have a good heat sink. I think you will find that the red Luxeon will work great on DD with one 123 cell. The cell's voltage will drop under load and you should be OK current wise. I think temperature will dictate how effective the LED is in terms of flux as it heats up. Don't forget that the red LED's sink slug is positive and will need to be isolated from ground.

 

[milkyspit]

McGizmo, that's interesting about the positive bias on the slug. Just out of curiosity, what options are out there for electrical isolation but thermal conductivity?

 

[Doug S]

[ QUOTE ]
milkyspit said:
McGizmo, that's interesting about the positive bias on the slug. Just out of curiosity, what options are out there for electrical isolation but thermal conductivity?


[/ QUOTE ]
My solution is to cut a couple of very small pieces on thin plastic film to place under the slug as "standoffs". Shoot for a couple of .001"s or less. The thinest grade of drafting mylar works well [I can hear everyone under 30 saying "what the heck is that?"]. Area of film should be small relative to slug, say two strips .200" by .010". I like to use non-epoxy AA under slug and JB Weld or similar under the plastic ring.

 

[milkyspit]

Doug S, very creative. Great idea! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/thumbsup.gif I'm in the 30-40 bracket and know what drafting is/was (that is, the kind with a big table and a pencil), but didn't know mylar was used. Where would one look for such mylar... would an arts & crafts store have it?

Also, you're using mylar (as opposed to small pieces of Ziplock freezer bag) for its relative stiffness, right? Are you concerned about heat melting the mylar and eventually collapsing things, leading to electrical contact?

Didn't mean to detract from the idea. I really like it.

 

[fred0109]

You can buy Mylar from a print shop. I used to be in the mapping business and we always worked with mylar map bases.
As far as the heatsink goes, this light is fashioned after the Pelican m6 bulb assy. I think that I will try to mod that part in order to use that aluminum slug for the sink. Seeing that this light was so cheap, I just did not want to drop a lot of money on a sandwhich or board.
Thanks again guys. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grinser2.gif

 

[Doug S]

[ QUOTE ]
milkyspit said:
Doug S, Also, you're using mylar (as opposed to small pieces of Ziplock freezer bag) for its relative stiffness, right? Are you concerned about heat melting the mylar and eventually collapsing things, leading to electrical contact?

Didn't mean to detract from the idea. I really like it.


[/ QUOTE ]
Scott,
I used it mainly because it was handy. Mylar is just a tradename for polyester film. It is very tolerant of high temperatures and is widely used for electrical insulation where high temps are a concern. You can use anything thin that is electrically insulating and can tolerant the temps. If you have any mylar cylindrical capacitors laying around, you can cut one open and unwind it for some really thin stuff, maybe too thin unless it is a fairly high voltage capacitor.
BTW, you can still buy drafting mylar at a drafting supply store.

 

[Wildcat]

I do computer drafting now, but I have TONS of mylar in the office. If anyone needs some, I'll mail you enough to fit in a .letter envelope.

 

[Wylie]

I little tight for a sandwich I'd guess but looking real close. I think I want one of those to play with.

 

[AilSnail]

fred, looks like a nice light. Maybe it has a good reflector too?

doug, I have a thermal insulating survival bag made of mylar!!

Roth says he uses sharpie for electrical insulation under the slug.

 

[fred0109]

Ailsnail, the reflector leaves a lot to be desired. What more do you want from a 10 dollar light. However, the inside diameter of the head is perfect for a NX05 or Fraen lens.

Wylie, yes it is a bit tight for a sandwhich, unless you could find/make one that is 1/2 inch tall. Mabey one of the micro converter boards listed at the Shoppe?

On this first one I am going to attempt the red LS HD direct drive, based on outcome I may order a few more lights and play with different options.
The ebay id of the company selling these is asainallsupplier. The light only took about 10 working days to get here(south Texas) from Hong Kong, not too bad.