Interest Thread; Malkoff M61 New 519A 4500k / 5700k 9080 *Group Buy 2022!*

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defloyd77

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So should CRI be described as... making colors pop, rather than bringing out accurate color renditions?
Actually both. It's kind of complicated. I'm probably not the best person to try and explain this lol.

The biggest eye opener for CRI for me was getting a cool white LED with good CRI, which was the Sofirn C01 with the 5600K Yuji LED. The typical cool white LED experience is making everything, especially skin tones, looks pale and zombie like. The Yuji, although a cooler white, has a CRI of 95 with good R9 values, which is the red a lot of LEDs are lacking. The result is that skin looks as it should. You can better notice subtle changes in the color of the skin vs your standard 75ish CRI cool white LED.
 
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LEDphile

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CRI is a metric of how accurately a light source renders the eight defined colors compared to a black body radiator by the standards.
CRI does not talk about how much a certain color "pops", only how ( lacking a better term ) well represented it is.

While the IES standard separates these two, how much the color pops, and how accurate it is compared to a perfect light source. A great representation is in the standard's description:
View attachment 22970

Here you can see the Y axis, gamut, that how much a color pops. The X axis is fidelity, or how accurate the color is.
So for example an Rf 70 but Rg 120 would mean that the source is pretty accurate but just way cartoonish looking, this is by the way what light source usually theme parks go for. Where you don't need perfect accuracy, but you want the vivid colors of a fairy tale.

Also, the IES TM30 contains waaaaay more info about how you should imagine a light source, for example here is the TM30 data for the 4500K SST20:

View attachment 22972

You can see that it represent the colors well ( Ra 96 ) the gamut - or how much the colors pop - is 95 (Rg value ) and you can see that almost all the reference colors are rendered accurately ( color fidelity chart at the bottom ).

Meanwhile, if you check a Samsung LED:
( this is a 6500K "high CRI" LH351D, claimed to be 90+ CRI )
View attachment 22973

You can see that the average color rendering is in fact 58 (Ra), the gamut ( how much color pop ) is -18 (Rg) so basically it washes out the colors, and you can clearly see that the colors are waaay tint shifted and not really accurate.



I might have gone a bit off topic, but thank you for coming to my TED talk....

A minor correction - CRI compares to a blackbody radiator for low CCTs, and to "daylight" for high CCTs.

On the topic of color "pop", it is quite possible to have a very low CRI source that makes colors pop. An example here is an RGB fixture set to produce a "white" output. In this case, colors are oversaturated compared to the reference, so the source scores poorly for color fidelity (which is what CRI is intended to measure).

For white LEDs, we generally associate high CRI devices with better color "pop" because the low-CRI devices normally desaturate colors (most commonly by using a yellow phosphor that doesn't extend into the red region)
 
fulee9999

fulee9999

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On the topic of color "pop", it is quite possible to have a very low CRI source that makes colors pop. An example here is an RGB fixture set to produce a "white" output. In this case, colors are oversaturated compared to the reference, so the source scores poorly for color fidelity (which is what CRI is intended to measure).
Ah yes, thank you, that's what I was trying to ramble about with fidelity and gamut. (y)
 
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defloyd77

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this whole cri nonsense is why I still use bulbs. Spares me the headaches.

If yall are so worried about it, stick with your maglites & p60s.
Spares you the headache of CRI and replaces it with the headache of replacing bulbs and batteries. Also, could you kindly point me in the direction of a 4000K bulb?
 
Olumin

Olumin

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Spares you the headache of CRI and replaces it with the headache of replacing bulbs and batteries. Also, could you kindly point me in the direction of a 4000K bulb?
HID. not 100 CRI tho, but its a bulb. But why would I want anything cooler then a Halogen anyway? The closest led I have in tint to incan is in fact the 4000k XP-L in my hound dog. I suspect its more along 3700-3800k.
 
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defloyd77

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HID. not 100 CRI tho, but its a bulb. But why would I want anything cooler then a Halogen anyway? The closest led I have in tint to incan is in fact the 4000k XP-L in my hound dog. I suspect its more along 3700-3800k.
I asked you to point me to one, not you to point yourself. 4000K is what I prefer. So, where can I find these high CRI 4000K HID bulbs for my Maglites and P60s?
 
kerneldrop

kerneldrop

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There are huge misunderstandings happening here and it's impossible to correct at this point.

What we have here is a punch bowl full of mixed Truly Hard Seltzers and Busch Light
 
Olumin

Olumin

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So, where can I find these high CRI 4000K HID bulbs for my Maglites and P60s?
I use 75 watt 4300k hid bulb & balast in two 3D MAGs running on three 32650 liion in my cars headlights so I can adjust them from spot to flood by pulling a string that ends next to my steering wheel. these double as great emergency survival spotlights for sos signaling as they are quick removable.
does that count?
 
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defloyd77

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I use 75 watt 4300k hid bulb & balast in two 3D MAGs running on three 32650 liion in my cars headlights so I can adjust them from spot to flood by pulling a string that ends next to my steering wheel. these double as great emergency survival spotlights for sos signaling as they are quick removable.
does that count?
I think I'll stick to the mild "headache" of CRI with LEDs, thank you very much.
 
kerneldrop

kerneldrop

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I don't get too caught up in tints or CRI enough to cause a headache or a worry.
I have a preference, but I'll make do with anything.

I can overlook tint or LED if the flashlight is an ideal form factor and the build quality is superb.
Where as, on the flip side, I'm not going to buy a Hank import light just because of a special emitter.
 
neutralwhite

neutralwhite

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I don't get too caught up in tints or CRI enough to cause a headache or a worry.
I have a preference, but I'll make do with anything.

I can overlook tint or LED if the flashlight is an ideal form factor and the build quality is superb.
Where as, on the flip side, I'm not going to buy a Hank import light just because of a special emitter.
you as bad as me man !......
 
bykfixer

bykfixer

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E7C0EBE2 46CB 4414 B2A1 6F91051DC805

And now the picture gets a little more fuzzy……
Same color temp but different tint?
Now I have a headache.
 

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