Introducing the SPY 007 XM-L2

LuxLuthor

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As you all know, the STFu MK4 performed well in the Tri-V2.

I have to register an exception to your opening statement. That was all Greek to me. :huh:

Dave, as I start my next millenium, I have been wondering if I might be missing out never having gotten a Spy. Unfortunately, I went through most of the first 10 threads posted in this section, and didn't see a "Spy Primer For Newbies" that would let me see what makes these lights be so revered year after year. I can surely understand this putting out 1000+ lumens from such a small package, and saw that very nice wall spot in sales thread from PSM.

I think I might want to get one of these, but don't really know what they can do, how they do it, which IMR cells people are using, why PSM got a different 5000K tint vs. the 6K default, etc.

Not sure if by the time I figure out what's going on they'll be all gone, but can't hurt to ask some friendly questions. Thanks in advance.

PS) I also sent a PM to Karl to see if he can help a newbie. :tinfoil:
 

PoliceScannerMan

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Lux, in a nut shell. With this light, you will have four banks of 6 levels. You can make it dim as a tritium vial, all the way to 1298 emitter lumens.

Anything above 1A, throttles down to 1A after 1 minute.

There is lockout incase of accidental knob movement, there is voltage check to test your batteries. Also there is a way to check the mA of all your settings for the current bank. Also u can reset any bank to factory default easily if need be.

I went with 5000K for personal preference, nothing more. The 6000K will be brighter.

There is a lot more to the light, I just gave the quick run down lol.
 

Imon

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I have to register an exception to your opening statement. That was all Greek to me. :huh:

Dave, as I start my next millenium, I have been wondering if I might be missing out never having gotten a Spy. Unfortunately, I went through most of the first 10 threads posted in this section, and didn't see a "Spy Primer For Newbies" that would let me see what makes these lights be so revered year after year. I can surely understand this putting out 1000+ lumens from such a small package, and saw that very nice wall spot in sales thread from PSM.

I think I might want to get one of these, but don't really know what they can do, how they do it, which IMR cells people are using, why PSM got a different 5000K tint vs. the 6K default, etc.

Not sure if by the time I figure out what's going on they'll be all gone, but can't hurt to ask some friendly questions. Thanks in advance.

PS) I also sent a PM to Karl to see if he can help a newbie. :tinfoil:

Hey Lux,

I'm pretty new to this too but I think I can answer a few of your questions.

- Most guys use AW IMR 16340 cells.
- PSM and KuanR got a 5000K XM-L2 because KuanR provided it. I don't know Kuan's source but there are websites where bare LEDs can be purchased.
- The 6500K LEDs has the highest luminous flux although I believe the typical CRI is around 65.
 

BenChiew

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Lux. Let me see if I can attempt an amateurish reply.
As I understand what sets this apart from other lights
1)Departing from the conventional flashlight form factor, it takes away the regular longish tubular form factor. A different approach is needed on how you hold the light and activate the light is different. This has a knob like rotary 6 stage switch
2)This light is fully programmable by the user on each of the 6 stage rotary switch. And plus you have 4 banks of that. So you can have various banks with different settings. eg. say bank 1 is your home edc modes, bank 2 your mizer mode, bank 3 you wow factor modes, bank 4 etc etc. effectively you have 24 programable locations.

PSM and KuanR wanted a neutral tint but Dave didn't have those emitters on hand. Fortunately KuanR have a couple of those 5000k bare emitters which he sent to Dave. So Dave kindly accepted those emitters and had that built into the lights for PSM and KuanR. So these are exceptional cases.

IMR16340 is needed if you want to run at max drive, else a RCR123 is also good if you drive it within the boundaries of the RCR. Having said that, a pair of primary will also suffice if you stick with the factory settings which has 1amp as the max drive.
 
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KuanR

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Hey Lux,

What everyone else has pretty much summed up what I feel the 007 is about. The only thing I can add is, just like PSM, I prefer the 5000k and Dave was gracious enough to honor my time crunch of moving soon to take the emitters I had on hand to build my 007.

And Ben, yes they are T6 and I got them from Illumination Supply a few months ago. At the time those were the highest bin I could find, and I think it's still pretty much up at the top currently.

One thing I should add though, the ONLY rechargeable batteries we should use are the red AW IMR 16340's. The RCR123's offer protection, but HKJ's battery tests have shown the red IMR's have higher ACTUAL capacity than the black AW RCR123's. Granted the RCR's have protection circuit, I think anyone that owns a Spy has been in the game long enough to handle unprotected batteries without issue.

It comes down to this: there's absolutely nothing else like this light on the market. The craftsmanship, the user program-ability, and the possibilities of future LED upgrades (by a good modder) will keep this light current for years to come (and last that long too).

My second titanium light ever bought was Tri-V, and since then I have never looked back! No matter what other lights I own, some sort of Spy light will always be my grail.
 
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Data

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. . .PS) I also sent a PM to Karl to see if he can help a newbie. :tinfoil:

You won't get an unbiased review from Karl, I pay him way to much for that! :devil: :tinfoil: :nana: :shakehead

There was a good review a while back, I will look for that. I am sorry there is nothing concise on the SPY, that is my fault and I intend to remedy that soon.


Cheers
Dave
 

LuxLuthor

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Some great replies. Thanks. Is it relatively easy to know which of the 4 banks you are using, and is it really practical (i.e. not going through lengthy settings to go between them) to use all 4? How did PSM know that he had achieved the 3300mA setting he mentioned in the sales thread? Is there a signal feedback?

Dave, I'm thinking in the past that you or someone did a video of how to do all the settings and take things apart that can be worked on? That might be easier and one could see how you open/close, what is adjustable, what to avoid....thinking out loud here. I know it has a lot of features/functions, but I almost don't know what to ask.
 

PoliceScannerMan

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I know that I achieved 3300mA bc when you take the battery cap off, then put knob to position five, and replace battery cap, the light will tell you what each level is set to. So when I moved to position 6: the light blinked three times, paused, blinked three times, paused, then blipped (few quick flashes means zero, then blipped again. 3300mA. :)
 

coloradogps

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Here is a good video introducing the SPY007 XML.


Check out all the other videos from badtziscool

Enjoy!
 
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LuxLuthor

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I know that I achieved 3300mA bc when you take the battery cap off, then put knob to position five, and replace battery cap, the light will tell you what each level is set to. So when I moved to position 6: the light blinked three times, paused, blinked three times, paused, then blipped (few quick flashes means zero, then blipped again. 3300mA. :)

Holy Moly!!! This light actually "Morse Codes" the actual voltage setting.

I was also just speaking with Saabluster, and mentioned how well Dave runs this project, in good times, and through the worst of the USA recession. He told me hands down after seeing a Spy at a light show that it was the most amazing light he has ever seen.

coloradogps, thanks very much for finding that video. I think I'll watch it, and then go order one.

Edit: My next question was how to do the various programming, and I see that the same person (thanks whoever you are) who did that video has a whole page of other videos done to explain the many features at this link:

http://www.youtube.com/user/badtziscool/videos
 
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KuanR

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Hey Lux,

Take a look at this thread http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...SPY-007-Instruction-Manual-a-joint-CPF-effort

Some of it is meant for the early 007. Scroll to "5.Programming and the back door". If you scroll further to "Light Engine Programming" it shows you a flow diagram and what the power level is for the each knob position.

These 2 videos might be a little confusing, but if you watch it, it shows you the sequences to key in for power levels. The main difference from the Tri-V to the 007 is you don't have to choose which emitter lights up for each knob position

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VQllx1onbAc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UHnkMmW3hs
 

LuxLuthor

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Thank you sir. The Manual, these two and the previous cache of videos will keep me busy.

Benchiew, been there many times with many products. :)
 
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scout24

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Lux-
There is a bit of mystery, but some patience, some reading, some short videos, and some more patience will pay off. As far as knowing which bank of levels you are in, the stock levels 1-6 are in ascending order output wise. You can set other banks to whatever you want. A "Mizer" bank which appears 1/4 as bright on all positions, a "Reverse" bank where levels are in descending order, at stock-type levels or mizer levels if you choose. You can make one bank your "Tactical" bank, where all knob positions are the same eye-bleed power level, so no matter what you do to the knob under stress you get max lumens. It's kind of on you to either remember where you are, or write down what you program. The beauty is in being to completely customize the knob positions to your needs. Or, enjoy the stock levels! None of the programming, banks, etc. ever show themselves if you don't want to see them. Spin knob, get light. It never has to be more complicated than that. Battery voltage report, Ma's of the knob setting you're on, the awesome lock feature, are all hidden unless you want or need to play. You can hand someone your Spy and they can figure out basic operation in 10 seconds. Or, you can spend days or longer playing. Beams are what you would expect from a McG reflector appropriate for whatever emitter your Spy has, (I know you're getting an XM-L2, but it's an accurate statement that beams across the generations are all but perfect.) and they're built like little Ti tanks. My $.02 ... Enjoy your new light!!! :)
 

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