Is Coleman 115 lumen now 144?

LEDrock

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Apr 20, 2008
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There was a 2AA Coleman light at Walmart that used to advertise being 115 Lumens. It used a Cree emitter although I have no idea which version. Cost was $25.

Now they don't have it anymore, but they have a 3AAA version which claims 144 Lumens. Price is the same. But is this true or is a "bit of exaggeration" as happens sometimes in budget lights? It would be cool if they have upgraded the emitter for the same price, although it sucks that it now runs on 3AAA. Never did like that configuration.
 
It's probably "true" to the extent that any of the output numbers are accurate. It may not even be an upgrade. It may just be driven a little harder. Neither figures are outstanding in the first place.

Runtime will be less with the AAA version in any event (4.5 wH v 6 wH).
 
And I assume being driven alot harder means it won't last as long because it will burn out sooner, correct?
 
And I assume being driven alot harder means it won't last as long because it will burn out sooner, correct?

No. I assume that it's driven within spec it's just that most Cree emitters that would be in there could be driven harder than the lumen figures that you mention. I'm just guessing. It may be that they upgrading to a higher bin and it's being driven at the same amperage. If it is just driven harder that would only mean that the runtime would be less (and it would be brighter of course).

There's nothing to worry about in other words 🙂
 
No. I assume that it's driven within spec it's just that most Cree emitters that would be in there could be driven harder than the lumen figures that you mention. I'm just guessing. It may be that they upgrading to a higher bin and it's being driven at the same amperage. If it is just driven harder that would only mean that the runtime would be less (and it would be brighter of course).

There's nothing to worry about in other words 🙂

Cool! I might just get one then. It seems to have the most lumens for the money. When I go to Coleman's website and click on "specifications", all it says is, "Made in China". I guess they can't be anymore specific than that!
 
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i have coleman maxx 2cr2 light that i bought 2-3 years ago, i think the package said 114lm, very nice light, however tint a bit geenish, but beam is a good combination throw\flood, also cost 25
 
A typical 3AAA light is a "throttled" version of direct drive and can drive the LED at higher currents than many cheaper boosted 2AA lights. The tradeoff is that the 2AA light would run longer at a slightly lower rate starting out while the 3AAA would deplete to a lower level faster due to lower battery capacity. If using alkalines a AAA has 1100mah at low current and perhaps 500mah at decent output levels while a AA has about 2800mah and drops to perhaps 1500mah at the same current with efficiency loses of the boost circuit you could still see 2 times the runtime for 2/3 the batteries and as AA and AAA cost the same the math says the AA light is cheaper to feed and runs longer.
 
This 144 light seems to be xp e. Way better throw, better tint than my 114 coleman max. I know it is wishful thinking to think this an r3. No tail cap measurement or runtime tests, have I done.

**I was in love with the hight definition cree, until I realized the useful lux only lasted 40 minutes (Though the coleman max 3 aa 105 lumen light only give me about 1h15 minutes of useful lux, if that, for painting.)
 
115 lumen > 144 lumen ain't shinola...you would need 230 lumen before your eyes could make your mouth say >>>> ""oh yeahhh..""

I'd stick with the AA format....aaa X3 Nay.
 
115 lumen > 144 lumen ain't shinola...you would need 230 lumen before your eyes could make your mouth say >>>> ""oh yeahhh..""

I'd stick with the AA format....aaa X3 Nay.

Firstly, xpe in this reflector has way better throw than the coleman max xre. I never liked the xre, ringy and need really special reflectors to throw (contrary to what I read here). Also, tint is improved (on single light, I purchased). My point is a big difference in usefulness for detail work and useful lux runtime. (The degree of beam spread is subject to laws of inverse square for lux. Lux is needed to see detail. So, a small increase of flood usually means a huge drop in useful detail runtime.) As a result, I have been more pleased with rebels, and found few cree lights that could throw as well, be as useful as long, as my lux 1 army of headlamps (brinkman/garrity). Though, a few well matched reflectors/cree (xrc&xre) of mine, will kick the pants off the lux1's on throw. (especially the walmart x-rc).

Secondly, I will report a huge drop in brightness after roughly (gut timed) an hour use with 3 rechargeables AAA. After this hour, the brightness was on par with the Remington low (20 hour) setting.

It also is too heavy for a strap on head light, and single drive mode often too bright for task. So, I guess I must break out a hack saw, solder, wires, amazing goop, wires, variable pot, AA battery holder, and elastic. Should make a good 3 AA headlamp with 9 hours useful run time. The trick is to make the wires and solder joints indestructible, when the weak link is in the battery holders sold to us.

In the end, my entire satisfaction with this light will be determined when I find out current ( a fresh cell acceptable current for me is <300 for 3 AA format) or bin of the emitter. It could be a q5 to r3 bin. If r3, and I find an indestructible headlamp mod, I will buy more.
 
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Someone with stronger mag glass than I can confirm; I think this is an xp-c. But cannot distinguish sections.

Not yet done run-time test or current test. Still no idea of bin. I am guessing neutral (?), so 67 to 87 lumen per watt. Perhaps, driven harder and the lux may be better than xr-e version, but most likely a step down in lumen per watt efficiency. They probably have saved 3 dollars per light by going xp-c, rather than xp-e
 
Actually, the easily visible soldering is definately xpe, not xpc.

I would need expensive camera to attempt to photo led.
 
I have one of these Coleman 144 Lumen lights. They are pretty nice. Similar to the Solarforce L2 i AAA host. Your right though, definitely in need of a three mode H-M-L version.
 
I got package of 20 aaa alkylines. Useful lumens to six hours.
Even at near six hours, brighter than most brick/mortor store lights-I guess 25 -30 lumens and still good throw for many tasks.

I figured out we can widdle down a paint stick to needed width, glue solder rods to it, stcik down in barrel to measure current. At four hours, it was drwing 90 milliamps, and seeming very efficient. My meter only had 200 milliamps max, will need to find better meter for new bats.
 
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