Is it worth it to replace acrylic with glass?

Lantern32

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I have a Malkoff MDC flashlight. I was wondering if it is worth it to replace the lens with glass?

Supposedly Malkoff uses heavy duty acrylic, but I'd imagine that could scratch fairly easily?

Surprisingly the key to remove the bezel is quite expensive, so I'm not sure if it is worth the cost.

You may use this thread as a general thread for anyone. I read a previous thread about someone with the same question, but nobody really came out with my answer, they just explained why Malkoff chose acrylic.
 
I have a Malkoff MDC flashlight. I was wondering if it is worth it to replace the lens with glass?

Supposedly Malkoff uses heavy duty acrylic, but I'd imagine that could scratch fairly easily?

Surprisingly the key to remove the bezel is quite expensive, so I'm not sure if it is worth the cost.

You may use this thread as a general thread for anyone. I read a previous thread about someone with the same question, but nobody really came out with my answer, they just explained why Malkoff chose acrylic.

Even the best acrylic soaks up a ton of light. So, if output is important to you then...
 
Even the best acrylic soaks up a ton of light. So, if output is important to you then...

supposedly the acrylic is not going to shatter, but I don't throw my light off of the roof... Maybe I'll wait till the lens gets scratched, and then I'll replace it with glass
 
I'm surprised they use acrylic. That's the stuff that is usually used on cheap watch crystals. I guess it's so it won't shatter as easily, but the downside is it has poor light transmission (compared to glass with anti-reflective coatings) and scratches easily (though not much of a problem is the lens is recessed behind a bezel. Replace it if you want a bit more light output (maybe 6% or so), otherwise don't bother until it's scratched.
 
This is likely the lens used. https://www.flashlightlens.com/index.php?app=ecom&ns=prodshow&ref=UCLp_AR. I've attacked a spare lens with a variety of items from wood to titanium, and it's definitely scratch resistant.

If ya give me your address, I'll mail you one so you can make the decision yourself regarding it's durability.

You don't need to mail me a lens! That's so generous of you! I guess that I'll be safe with my lens, and probably keep it for a month. I believe that I'll replace it when it gets scratched. Light transmission isn't too big of a deal... I guess.
 
I'm surprised they use acrylic. That's the stuff that is usually used on cheap watch crystals. I guess it's so it won't shatter as easily, but the downside is it has poor light transmission (compared to glass with anti-reflective coatings) and scratches easily (though not much of a problem is the lens is recessed behind a bezel. Replace it if you want a bit more light output (maybe 6% or so), otherwise don't bother until it's scratched.

They have fully potted heads and acrylic lenses to resist shattering lenses, but I'd much rather have a little AR coated gorilla glass insert than acrylic if shattering is an issue. Saphire UCL anything!
 
In case you didn't follow the link I provided, the light transmittance of the AR hardcoated acrylic is spec'd at 97%, so any improvement is minimal, and imperceptible.

I have yet to see any Gorilla glass offered in small lens shapes. If you know of one, spill the beans.....others may be interested.
 
In case you didn't follow the link I provided, the light transmittance of the AR hardcoated acrylic is spec'd at 97%, so any improvement is minimal, and imperceptible.

This. Optical acrylic is actually extremely efficient. It's not worth upgrading from acrylic to glass just to get better light output. The increase in output is much too small to be visually noticeable.

The main reason to go for glass would be for scratch resistance. Personally, I don't think it's necessary. I have multiple lights that have exposed acrylic lenses, and even with the lens bouncing against my keys in my pocket they don't scratch. There's a reason why when you mod a light into a triple you don't actually need a glass lens in front of the Carclo optic. That acrylic is tough!
 
We actually did at one time sell them with UCL Glass Lenses. They were easily broken, so we switched to acrylic. Haven't had a problem since.

Thanks, Gene
 
Oddly enough even a plastic window with scratches won't within the context of actual field use matter compared to the best ultra clear glass. For an experiment put a clear plastic Ziplock bag over the bezel (toss the light into the bag) then walking outside at night. Then remove the plastic bag to compare when walking back. See if it really affects the usefulness of the light to the degree one might expect. Odds are the answer will be no or at least that's what I found. I have scratched every glass window on my Surefire G2Z so even glass is no guarantee of no scratches though clearly (pun intended) it's more resistant to scratches than plastic.
 
You can simply us carnauba wax on your acrylic lens when new. This will greatly extend scratch resistance.

You can also get headlight cleaner to refurb heavily scratched lenses, then use carnauba.
 
It's probably not worth changing; but Sapphire crystal lens is good for scratch resistance.
 
That's true, but i haven't had any bad experiences with watches

Interesting catch. Although, most good watch manufacturers that implement true Sapphire have been around awhile and know how to engineer with tolerances that would put the most high end lights to shame. A good manufacturer has that thing mounted like a bank vault.

Also, watches aren't subject to the frequency & intensity of shock / dropping like flashlights are. Sure we all have whacked a watch against a wall break free, but I think on average, a flashlight being a tool, leads a rougher life.
 
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It would be interesting to compare glass or sapphire or even 'gorilla glass' to acrylic. My gut feeling is that I'd rather have the durability of acrylic. I've dropped every EDC and hard-use light I've ever owned at least once, some of them multiple times. It's part of the cost of going business if you use a light for work, hiking, camping, roadside emergencies, etc. I would think scratches would be a very minor deal. It's not like your eyeglasses where a scratch can make a big difference. Funnily enough even pretty scratched up eyeglasses still work fine. It seems unlikely that minor scratches will make much difference in the beam quality, especially compared to the chances of destroying your light if a shattered lens lets the emitter get wet.
 
It would be interesting to compare glass or sapphire or even 'gorilla glass' to acrylic. My gut feeling is that I'd rather have the durability of acrylic. I've dropped every EDC and hard-use light I've ever owned at least once, some of them multiple times. It's part of the cost of going business if you use a light for work, hiking, camping, roadside emergencies, etc. I would think scratches would be a very minor deal. It's not like your eyeglasses where a scratch can make a big difference. Funnily enough even pretty scratched up eyeglasses still work fine. It seems unlikely that minor scratches will make much difference in the beam quality, especially compared to the chances of destroying your light if a shattered lens lets the emitter get wet.

+1

Just to note, Malkoff acrylic, in my experience, has been superior with scratches compared with other brand(s).

Come to think of it... I have never scratched a Malkoff lens....even EDC...
 
+1

Just to note, Malkoff acrylic, in my experience, has been superior with scratches compared with other brand(s).

Come to think of it... I have never scratched a Malkoff lens....even EDC...

Probably because the lens is so recesses?
 
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