Is Novatac EDC 120T the best choice?

FlashlightFun

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Aug 5, 2007
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A colleague is looking for a "very bright", quality LED flashlight that:
* Is easily pocketable
* Uses a single battery
* Allows use of primary or rechargeable batteries
* Has a good, non-slippery grip
* Turns on every time at the highest brightness level
* Provides an attractive, quality beam
* Has a disorienting strobe available
* Employs an intuitive user interface
* Includes a forward clicky

Would the Novatac EDC-120T be the best choice at this point?

Are there any flashlights that have been announced, but are not yet available, that would be a better choice?
 
Get the 120p you can set that up any way you want it's alot more flexible.
 
Get the 120p you can set that up any way you want it's alot more flexible.

Thanks for the suggestion. Although a flashlight enthusist might enjoy customizing the settings, I'm not sure my colleague would have any interest in doing so.
 
My 120t is one of my favorites....it's the one I always grab setting among five of my favorite 123's,I don't think you'll be dissatisfied.
 
I bought a 120P to replace the Surefire E2D Executive Defender that I carried. The Surefire with the crenulated bezel kept eating holes in my pockets, but I loved it.

My Novatac is one sweet light, but a little thicker. It has an infinite # of programing levels / options that can be personalized. Beam quality is barr none in my experience and throw is good for it's size. The disorienting strobe is pretty irritating as well I feel, but the 120 lumens also is just as annoying. Although pricey, I'd buy it again. I got mine cheap at yourcornerstore.com for like $130+.

I just bought a Fenix P3D and am awaiting it's arrival as an alternate EDC. Time will tell which I carry more though.

Surf the posts in here as they are invaluable, at least they have been to me for my searches in looking for the "perfect" EDC light. GL.

Dan
 
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Thanks for the suggestion. Although a flashlight enthusist might enjoy customizing the settings, I'm not sure my colleague would have any interest in doing so.

I'm betting that he would.
The UI of the P model is intimidating if you just read about it, but once you pick up a real 120P and actually "work" it, the UI is easily learned and a joy to use.

So +1 on the 120P over the T model because the P is not only easy to program to work ANY way you (he) will like, but once that's done, you don't even have to think about programming after that at all if you don't want. It'll just keep working the way you originally programmed it.

The 120P is (I think) destined to become a real classic that should be owned by every flashaholic. Not cheap, but the price is soon forgotten while this little gem will be with you a very long time.
 
My 120t is one of my favorites....it's the one I always grab setting among five of my favorite 123's,I don't think you'll be dissatisfied.

Thank you for your input.

Do you use primary batteries or rechargeables?

If you use rechargeables:
* Have you determined an optimal type of rechargeable battery to use?
* Do primary and rechargeable batteries work equally well... or does one type work better than the other?
 
One of the many cool features of the NovaTac 120P is that after you have it set up exactly like you want..... you can disable the menu so that no further changes can be made (unless you do a factory reset, which only takes a minute, but can't be done accidentally).

So, you could set it up to operate precisely like a T model (you could even buy an optional tactical tailcap if you like)...... and then disable the menu.

Then you would have a fully functional T model, completely locked into that configuration, but with the added bonus of still being able to make changes in the future if desired.

To my thinking, that is the best of both worlds.
 
My Novatac is one sweet light, but a little thicker. It has an infinite # of programing levels / options that can be personalized. Beam quality is barr none in my experience and throw is good for it's size. The disorienting strobe is pretty irritating as well I feel, but the 120 lumens also is just as annoying. Although pricey, I'd buy it again. I got mine cheap at yourcornerstore.com for like $130+.
Dan

Thanks for the information.

Wow... that sounds like a great price for a Novatac EDC 120P! (My colleague might balk, however, at ordering from a web site that uses PayPal to "secure customer information".)
 
I'm betting that he would.
The UI of the P model is intimidating if you just read about it, but once you pick up a real 120P and actually "work" it, the UI is easily learned and a joy to use.

So +1 on the 120P over the T model because the P is not only easy to program to work ANY way you (he) will like, but once that's done, you don't even have to think about programming after that at all if you don't want. It'll just keep working the way you originally programmed it.

The 120P is (I think) destined to become a real classic that should be owned by every flashaholic. Not cheap, but the price is soon forgotten while this little gem will be with you a very long time.

Thanks for the input.

Although I did not mention it in my original post, my colleague is a non-flashaholic in his late 70's who has a low patience level for products that are not intuitive. In other words, he would probably say his time was too valuable to be wasted following the (custom configuration) directions in a user guide.
 
I got my 120P from Yourcornerstore. I also ordered a few items from them in the past without any problems.

Thanks for the information.

Wow... that sounds like a great price for a Novatac EDC 120P! (My colleague might balk, however, at ordering from a web site that uses PayPal to "secure customer information".)
 
One of the many cool features of the NovaTac 120P is that after you have it set up exactly like you want..... you can disable the menu so that no further changes can be made (unless you do a factory reset, which only takes a minute, but can't be done accidentally).

So, you could set it up to operate precisely like a T model (you could even buy an optional tactical tailcap if you like)...... and then disable the menu.

Then you would have a fully functional T model, completely locked into that configuration, but with the added bonus of still being able to make changes in the future if desired.

To my thinking, that is the best of both worlds.

You made some excellent points. Because of my colleague's age/personality, I don't think he will find them persuasive... but you never know!
 
As someone who owns 3 NovaTacs (2-120E(s) & 1-85P) I can tell you that I do not enjoy "playing around" with the 85P. Perhaps I'm "stupid", but I have not found the P version easy to program at all, of course I use a flashlight as a "tool" and not a "playtoy" and do not enjoy the "games" that have to be played to program it. Give me the E or T series anyday. My.02 FWIW
 
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