I had a quick look at a couple of Jetbeams and I don't think they do it for me. Seems like there is a rotating bezel but still lots of button presses to change modes. I think the Sunwayman V10R is a contender. I like the M10R too. Will look at others too.
JETBeam RRT-0 is simple .... click on, click off, and output is set with a continuous dial. With the extender/adapter, you have choice of AA or CR123, primaries or rechargeables.
If you have a true mechanical clicky switch like the V10R there is no drain when the switch is off.Ooh the Nitecore EF1 looks interesting. And is parasitic drain common on all of these types of flashlights?
If you have a true mechanical clicky switch like the V10R there is no drain when the switch is off.
If you have electronic switches the light is going to need a small current even when off. This can go all the way from a current draining your battery in a couple of days to one that is so low that it becomes completely insignificant.
If you have a true mechanical clicky switch like the V10R there is no drain when the switch is off.
If you have electronic switches the light is going to need a small current even when off. This can go all the way from a current draining your battery in a couple of days to one that is so low that it becomes completely insignificant.
Oh, I see, yes that's a problem for me too but many here don't care. It seems that all brands are affected.Actually, I was not referring to the parasitic drain while off - I was referring to the drain while on. Compare the V20A with the M20A, for example, both use the R5 emitter in a 2xAA format. The V's max runtime is stated as 1 lumen for 100 hrs while the M's is 4 lumens for 200 hrs. This difference seems to evident across the entire line - variable vs manual.
The high-end is not materially effected, however, which makes sense. If, for example, the parasitic draw of the magnetic ring is around 10-20ma, then it be immaterial in relation to high output modes which will draw around 500+ma. However, the low low modes of 1 to 4 lumens draw only around 3-10ma, and so the parasitic draw of the ring becomes very material for the low-end runtimes.
Bottom line is that, if you use your lights on the higher end a lot, the magnetic ring will not make much difference. However, if you use your lights on the lower end a lot, then it will probably be better to get a manual clicky...... or just carry spares and change batts more frequently.
The V20C has got a standby mode with the clicky engaged but the light off that draws some current.I had a look at the Sunwayman V20C which uses a magnetic control ring but it says in the specs...
"Standby current is 50 μA when the light is at OFF mode"
Anyone know what's the difference between the V10R and V20C in terms of the magnetic control??