ITP EOS 1AAA

Candle Power Flashlight Forum

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dougmwpsu said:
On mine, it takes about 4 full revolutions from a true off till the head comes off. It would be just about impossible for the head to twist itself off in my pocket. I'd say it's about half a revolution before the light is unthreaded enough that it can't come on from pressure. I wonder where the discrepancy comes from? Could there be a manufacturing defect on your light?
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x2... FWIW mine is the 3-mode version.
From just turning off it takes ~2 turns to dis-engage the O-ring, and ~2 more after that to remove the head completely. No way this things coming off.:thumbsup:

sounds like it could be a condition with the single-mode model.??
 
kramer5150 said:
x2... FWIW mine is the 3-mode version.
From just turning off it takes ~2 turns to dis-engage the O-ring, and ~2 more after that to remove the head completely. No way this things coming off.:thumbsup:

sounds like it could be a condition with the single-mode model.??
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Can anybody verify the difference with the 3 mode vs. single mode?

- single mode about 1.0 - 1.5 turns until the head comes off after light turns off.

- 3 mode about 4 turns until the head comes off after light turns off.
 
I looked at mine again. You all are right, what I am terming the head being loose, is just the head going past the o-ring and feeling loose. It does take about 4 turns on both my iTP single mode and my Maratac 3 mode. Both appear to have the same amount of threading past the o-ring. So that is a good thing.
 
Takes about 4 1/2 turns from the on/fully tightened position to remove the head with mine.

I know that the single mode has a shorter head than the 3 mode.
 
Anyone found a solution to the flickering in the 3-mode version?

Drives me nuts that I have to really crank on it to get it to not flicker.
If I turn it on and run a full cycle through all modes, then it seems fine. :shrug:
 
Black Rose said:
Anyone found a solution to the flickering in the 3-mode version?

Drives me nuts that I have to really crank on it to get it to not flicker.
If I turn it on and run a full cycle through all modes, then it seems fine. :shrug:
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Sounds defective-- return for exchange/refund?
 
There have been other reports of the iTP and it's Maratac cousin having the same flicker problem, so it's not isolated.
Seems to be a "feature".

It's still a great little light.
 
^ I have a couple 3 modes of each brand, no flicker problem at all other than usual PMW. Maybe lightly using something abrasive on contact edge of battery tube like emery cloth, steel wool or very fine sandpaper would improve contact.
 
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sabre7 said:
^ I have a couple 3 modes of each brand, no flicker problem at all other than usual PMW. Maybe lightly using something abrasive on contact edge of battery tube like emery cloth, steel wool or very fine sandpaper would improve contact.
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I've had great success honing the edge of the barrel on several lights using a very fine knife sharpening stone. Make sure to have the barrel perfectly perpendicular and make small circles. This removes any tiny burrs. I use a quality sharpening oil on the stone. Then clean it all off and you should be good to go. And I use Deoxit on the contact points.
 
Flic said:
I've had great success honing the edge of the barrel on several lights using a very fine knife sharpening stone. Make sure to have the barrel perfectly perpendicular and make small circles. This removes any tiny burrs. I use a quality sharpening oil on the stone. Then clean it all off and you should be good to go. And I use Deoxit on the contact points.
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Technically this voids the warranty, so I have never openly posted this little tip that I do with all my lights.

I use 600, 800, 1200, 2000 grit wet sand paper and carefully/evenly wet sand the body tube end flat. I just soak the paper and lay it flat on a 12"x12"x.5" slab of delrin on my workbench. I grasp the flashlight body like a pencil and sand the end in a small circular pattern to true up the end of the tube. After the 2000 grit I polish it with some Blue Magic metal polishing compound and bring it to a shine. After that I spray the tube with electronics parts spray cleaner, the kind thats safe for use on plastics. It removes any metal fragments and residual polish.

I do this with all my lights that contact the body tube cylinder end to the driver board. Many time sit improves on the "feel" of the twist switch as it engages the ring on the DC-DC board.

I did this with my ITP-3A and it works fine and is flicker free. Its a very tight fit with the O-ring gtasket, so i still need to use 2 hands though. it also helps to keep the tube end clean and free of thread lube.
 
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I ran the end of the light over a Carborundum #149 pocket hone and it seems to be working better.

I have to use it two handed since the o-ring has swelled a bit since applying some dielectric grease to the threads.
 
I was playing with mine a bit using an Eneloop. While this is a fine light and a great value, there's no way this is putting out 80 lumens. What you guess, 40-50?
 
I have a Fenix T1 which is supposed to put out 60L on "low" and my Maratac and iTP both edge it out in a ceiling bounce. This is with lithium energizers. I'd say it is at least 60L.
 
I dont know if it's 80 lumens OTF, probably not , but for a AAA it is pretty impressive. And even if it is 60 lumens OTF I absolutley love these little lites.

I have used this lite on a chain around my neck more than any other lite I have owned in the past 2 years. I use it every single day . No rechargeables just Lithium Primaries. For $20 bucks it is fantastic.

Its changed my whole personal philosophy on lites and EDC . Just goes to show it dont take $50-$450 bucks to get a nice useful tool that does its job well
 
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oronocova said:
I have a Fenix T1 which is supposed to put out 60L on "low" and my Maratac and iTP both edge it out in a ceiling bounce. This is with lithium energizers. I'd say it is at least 60L.
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I would agree with this, although I don't have any light in the 60 Lumen range to direct compare it too. So I'm just estimating.:twothumbs
 
Of the various discussions of this and the Maratac light, has it been discussed/stated whether the light is reverse polarity protected? If not, will you definitely smoke the light by inserting the battery backwards?
 
I've tested two ITP EOS 1AAA lights in my homemade lightbox, and both of them tested out at a little over 60 lumens with a fresh Alkaline. I would imagine if someone tested them in an IS that it would get at least 60 OTF lumens and less than 70 OTF lumens.
 
I've had my ITP A3 EOS standard edition for a couple weeks now and I love it! It never leaves my neck. The total output is quite impressive considering the size of this light. Even the runtime on high for the single mode version is pretty good for just one AAA battery.

ITPA3EOS2.jpg


ITPA3EOS1.jpg
 
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