Jetbeam RRT-01 getting warm while off.

[dintyma]

Good evening,

I wanted to check if anyone else had ever noticed similar behavior. This is the newer model RRT-01 with the switch in the tail.
I charged the 18350 to top it off since it had been a while. Once charged I re-installed in the flashlight put the flashlight in my pocket. The tail switch is on with the ring set to off. This is how I have carried the light for years. A short while later I noticed it was warm in my pocket. I took it out of my pocket and the LED was off, but the flashlight was very warm, between 90 and 100 Fahrenheit. I swapped the battery to spare and the same thing happened.
I cleaned the threads on the head and left it sitting on my desk. In the same configuration, tail switch on and selector ring set to lowest point. No glow from the LED but reads 82 Fahrenheit in the area around the top of the battery. Turn off the tail switch and the temperature drops to 74 in the same area of the light, which is the ambient temperature.

Has anyone else observed this? Is there anything to check?

Regards,
Dintyma

 

[aznsx]

I'm not familiar with that light, but many others around here are, so they can advise on the specifics.

I will say that I would personally never carry that light in that condition, althought I realize you've gotten away with it for some time. I would not consider it fundamentally sound practice. If it's this model, note that the manufacturer states repeatedly that it is adjustable from 1-950 lumens, not 0-950. That would further suggest that carry in that condition is not sound practice.

http://www.jetbeamlight.com/product/?type=detail&id=245

That aside, if you've established a change in the operation characteristics over time, that would suggest a change in the light itself, which might by definition suggest that a failure has occurred / is occurring. Determining the root cause of that change in the light itself could be challenging...but this may be beside the point given the way the light is documented.

What does the user manual say?

 

[dintyma]

Hi Aznsx,

Thanks for the reply.

The previous version of the light just used the control ring with no switch. There is a detent in the control ring to keep it in the off position. This light has never activated in my pocket. I can not say the same for my TS10s or FW3a, and others.

I know the website says 1 to 900, but there is zero output at off. It is possible to set the level low enough that there the LED has a visible glow, but nothing is projected. Well below 1 lumen. If you look at the graphic for the control ring on the Jetbeam website, it does show on/off with a gap then 1 lumen.

The light had been on my desk for at least 3 months, in this configuration, and the battery was at 50 percent. That includes whatever use it had since the last charge. This is my working around the house light, that is why it had been sitting for a while.

The change in operation is the concerning part. It is odd the change occurred after removing, charging and reinstalling the battery. As expected the change is also resulting in the battery being depleted quickly.

I did try to check the manual but I could not find it on the Jetbeam website. I will need to try and find mine.

Regards,
Dintyma

 

[aznsx]

Hi Aznsx,

Thanks for the reply.

The previous version of the light just used the control ring with no switch. There is a detent in the control ring to keep it in the off position. This light has never activated in my pocket. I can not say the same for my TS10s or FW3a, and others.

I know the website says 1 to 900, but there is zero output at off. It is possible to set the level low enough that there the LED has a visible glow, but nothing is projected. Well below 1 lumen. If you look at the graphic for the control ring on the Jetbeam website, it does show on/off with a gap then 1 lumen.

The light had been on my desk for at least 3 months, in this configuration, and the battery was at 50 percent. That includes whatever use it had since the last charge. This is my working around the house light, that is why it had been sitting for a while.

The change in operation is the concerning part. It is odd the change occurred after removing, charging and reinstalling the battery. As expected the change is also resulting in the battery being depleted quickly.

I did try to check the manual but I could not find it on the Jetbeam website. I will need to try and find mine.

Regards,
Dintyma

I didn't inspect all the photos, and I missed that one. I was just looking at the numbers, and for a user manual I never found. Thanks.

I would repeat the test w/ both the front and rear switches set to 'off'. If that eliminates the drain on the batt, then evidently the rear 'off' works, and the front 'off' does not. That would suggest a failure in the front control mechanism / switch section of the control, or the electronics it controls, as you've already eliminated the batt itself as the cause.

Particularly if the batt is accessed by removing the head (rather than the tail) that might suggest that the physical action / forces involved could have induced / precipitated a failure, which would fit with the batt swap timing. Either (switch or electronics) would probably suggest that contact with their customer service may likely be required, as I doubt either would be user repairable within reason(?). Note that I also don't know if the front 'off' setting is a physical switch, or is "magnetically" determined. If it's a physical switch with contacts, they could be oxidized, but that would not be as likely given the timeline.

Again, I think this light is fairly popular one, so someone may yet have had a similar experience, so you may want to delay to see if anyone has relevant info / experience.

Good luck with this!

 

[Fireclaw18]

If your RRT-01 is getting hot when the ring is in the off position, something is wrong with it. I have the same light and mine doesn't do that.

Frankly, the RRT-01 shouldn't get hot even if the ring accidentally activates and leaves the light on, but in a very low setting. It should only get hot when run at medium or higher output.

This applies to ALL models of RRT-01, including the latest version with the tailcap switch. Your light is damaged or defective. There may be a possible short that is drawing power even when the light is not on. I recommend against using it until the problem is fixed as it is a safety issue.

 

[dintyma]

If your RRT-01 is getting hot when the ring is in the off position, something is wrong with it. I have the same light and mine doesn't do that.

Frankly, the RRT-01 shouldn't get hot even if the ring accidentally activates and leaves the light on, but in a very low setting. It should only get hot when run at medium or higher output.

This applies to ALL models of RRT-01, including the latest version with the tailcap switch. Your light is damaged or defective. There may be a possible short that is drawing power even when the light is not on. I recommend against using it until the problem is fixed as it is a safety issue.

Thanks for confirming you don't have any heat. I never measured it before so I wanted to make sure I was not missing anything.

The head is well sealed, I don't think anything should have gotten inside

I am debating about taking the head apart or trying to send it in for warranty.

Thanks,
Dintyma

 

[jon_slider]

the flashlight was very warm, between 90 and 100 Fahrenheit. I swapped the battery to spare and the same thing happened.

sorry to hear your light is drawing too much power when off

to eliminate the possibility that dirty lube has allowed metal shavings from the threads to be trapped between the pill and the body, I would use a Q tip dipped in alcohol to clean the inside of the head.

We dont want excess alcohol to flow into the head, so I would not do it with the head facing down.. instead I would do the cleaning with the head tilted so any excess alcohol will flow away from the pill.. iow, with the head at an angle with the lens aiming up from horizontal.

I would also clean off any old dirty lube on the threads of the head, and on the body tube threads. I would then use only a small amout of lube on the O ring, leaving the threads dry for the time being.

Then retest how the light behaves with a battery installed. Hopefully the issue was just dirty lube accumulating between the pill and the head.

let us know if cleaning off old dirty lube solved the problem.

 

[dintyma]

I had cleaned the threads initially and that seems like to have helped. Originally the flashlight was getting much warmer. I cleaned them a second time, using alcohol. I also removed the cover exposing the pill. I did not see anything underneath. There was a little oxidation or something on the board between some of the contacts. I was able to clean the residue off with the alcohol and q-tips.
I put in a fresh battery and after 4 hours the voltage dropped .3 volts. Also, using an infrared thermometer the flashlight is 2 to 3 degrees above room temperature. It is not enough that you can notice it by touch.

Turning off the tail switch there is no voltage drop and the flashlight stays at the room temperature.

Maybe there is something inside the rotary control. I am not sure how that comes apart.

Regards,
Dintyma

 

[jon_slider]

I put in a fresh battery and after 4 hours the voltage dropped .3 volts.

Im not sure we can rely on that, because with a battery fresh off the charger, the voltage can change after resting the battery

suggest you consider redoing the test, but with a battery that has been sitting outside the light, and not on the charger, overnight. Then do a voltage check, put the battery in the light, and recheck voltage 24 hours later (there should be no change).. if its still dropping .3V.. that drain is too high to not use the tailswitch

Also, using an infrared thermometer the flashlight is 2 to 3 degrees above room temperature. It is not enough that you can notice it by touch.

that sounds bad

Turning off the tail switch there is no voltage drop and the flashlight stays at the room temperature.

sounds like the driver is drawing too much power with the dial off and the switch on.. sorry to hear that.. suprised you had not noticed that before.. has the light been dropped? (possible damage to account for a change in parasitic drain)

Maybe there is something inside the rotary control. I am not sure how that comes apart.

it is extremely difficult to open, I dont think you need to go there.

sorry your light is misbehaving.. you may have to start using the tailswitch

 

[Fireclaw18]

Im not sure we can rely on that, because with a battery fresh off the charger, the voltage can change after resting the battery

suggest you consider redoing the test, but with a battery that has been sitting outside the light, and not on the charger, overnight. Then do a voltage check, put the battery in the light, and recheck voltage 24 hours later (there should be no change).. if its still dropping .3V.. that drain is too high to not use the tailswitch

that sounds bad

sounds like the driver is drawing too much power with the dial off and the switch on.. sorry to hear that.. suprised you had not noticed that before.. has the light been dropped? (possible damage to account for a change in parasitic drain)

it is extremely difficult to open, I dont think you need to go there.

sorry your light is misbehaving.. you may have to start using the tailswitch

The rotary mechanism contains a magnet whose position is sensed by the driver. All the electronics are in the driver.

My guess is bad wiring causing a short. This could happen at the driver or the star. One possibility is the emitter isn't properly soldered to the star and there is a short under the emitter. If this is the case reflowing the emitter should fix the problem.

It is also possible that the problem is more complex. Perhaps a bad or loose component on the driver. Jetbeam sells spare drivers. They are expensive, but still cheaper than buying a whole new light. You could also try contacting Jetbeam for warranty assistance.

 

[dintyma]

Im not sure we can rely on that, because with a battery fresh off the charger, the voltage can change after resting the battery

suggest you consider redoing the test, but with a battery that has been sitting outside the light, and not on the charger, overnight. Then do a voltage check, put the battery in the light, and recheck voltage 24 hours later (there should be no change).. if its still dropping .3V.. that drain is too high to not use the tailswitch

that sounds bad

sounds like the driver is drawing too much power with the dial off and the switch on.. sorry to hear that.. suprised you had not noticed that before.. has the light been dropped? (possible damage to account for a change in parasitic drain)

it is extremely difficult to open, I dont think you need to go there.

sorry your light is misbehaving.. you may have to start using the tailswitch

I can add I let the flashlight sit over night and it totally depleted a battery. I had skipped mentioning it since did not check voltages.

 

[dintyma]

The flashlight had been fine until I charged the battery. After sitting for 3 months the battery was about 50 percent. I charged the battery and reinstalled it. Nothing else changed. I just put it in my pocket.

I will probably reach out to Jetbeam about the warranty.

 

[jon_slider]

I can add I let the flashlight sit over night and it totally depleted a battery.

thats pretty conclusive, sorry to hear the change happened for no apparent reason

I will probably reach out to Jetbeam about the warranty.

their contact is info @ jetbeamlight .com (remove 3x spaces)

the most recent RRT-01 driver I bought was $35 shipped.. if you can get a free driver under warranty, that would be great.. we can explain how to get it installed

suggest you make a video and email it to jetbeam, showing the voltage of a discharged battery.. iow, record taking a depleted battery out of the light, and show the voltage on a DMM..

this is just so the customer service rep has something to cover their job requirement, that the customer must provide a video of the problem (even if the video does not really show the problem, and the customer service rep has no idea what theyre looking at)

a new driver is the right move.. recommend you stop using the light, now that we know there is a high drain short in the driver, lets play it safe

sorry your RRT-01 driver died.. maybe console yourself by shopping for a new light..

I suggest a Wurkkos TS10 ;-)

 

[dintyma]

thats pretty conclusive, sorry to hear the change happened for no apparent reason

their contact is info @ jetbeamlight .com (remove 3x spaces)

the most recent RRT-01 driver I bought was $35 shipped.. if you can get a free driver under warranty, that would be great.. we can explain how to get it installed

suggest you make a video and email it to jetbeam, showing the voltage of a discharged battery.. iow, record taking a depleted battery out of the light, and show the voltage on a DMM..

this is just so the customer service rep has something to cover their job requirement, that the customer must provide a video of the problem (even if the video does not really show the problem, and the customer service rep has no idea what theyre looking at)

a new driver is the right move.. recommend you stop using the light, now that we know there is a high drain short in the driver, lets play it safe

sorry your RRT-01 driver died.. maybe console yourself by shopping for a new light..

I suggest a Wurkkos TS10 ;-)

Thanks for the tip on making the video. I will try that route.

How hard is it to replace the driver?

Out of approximately 30 lights this is the first one that has failed. Just the way it failed surprised me.

I already have 4 TS10, but they are like potato chips.

Thanks,
Dintyma

 

[jon_slider]

How hard is it to replace the driver?

pretty easy, if you have soldering skills.. will also benefit from having a small amount of Thermal Paste when reassembling.. the process is
1. Remove Bezel and reflector
2. unsolder and remove mcpcb from reflector side
3. remove driver from battery side

the pitfall is that RRT-01 driver wire solder joints are fragile.. do not pull on the driver to free the wires or a solder joint that attaches the red and black wirs inside the driver can break loose. This is not fixable because the driver is a PCB sandwich that prevents access to the solder points.

Instead of pulling on the driver to extract the wires.. gently push them down through the holes on the lens side, after removing the mcpcb

 

[aznsx]

I will probably reach out to Jetbeam about the warranty.

If warranty coverage is available / practical in this situation, this is the avenue I would personally pursue in this situation.

 

[knucklegary]

The video proof is a common request from Chinese flashlight mfgr's..
+2 with aznsx suggestion, go for the warranty exchange for a new unit, if they're still available.

 

[jacobd]

I had a RRT-01 that inexplicably died on me one day, I was using it and the emitter flashed bright and then stopped completely. I also had to send them a video of it not working (lol) and they sent me a new head. I'd recommend asking for a head as it's going to be far easier than soldering a new driver. The old head in in my drawer as spare parts. (Someone can have it if they want.. lol)

Took a few weeks to arrive but I received it with no issues or problems.

 

[Monocrom]

Hey! Any type of abnormal behavior from a light running off of a lithium rechargeable battery should be taken very seriously. Not sure how you're going to video record evidence that it gets warm while off. If JetBeam doesn't do right by you, toss the light and start EDCing something else. Sometimes it's best to cut your losses.

 

[defloyd77]

I'd look into the place you purchased the light from as a lot of dealers will provide better and more convenient service than the manufacturer.