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Sold/Expired JM-PhD-D1 PWM Regulator Giveaway

JimmyM

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I want to stir things up a bit over in the D1 regulator sales thread. Maybe folks don't realize that these can be used for things other than Mags and could use a fresh idea or 3.
So... I'm going to give away 3 D1 regulators including shipping to 3 different CPFers
The sales thread is here and has all the details about the regulator. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb...-SALE-JM-PhD-D1-PWM-Hotwire-Regulator-BATCH-2
I'll pick the recipients from those who submit a new idea for a light using one of these regulators. There are a few rules.
I will pick the top 3 ideas using my own judgement on or after 1-Aug-2014.
You are on your honor to actually build the light and post pics of your creation. Build doesn't need to be completed by Aug 1st
I will help out with custom programming if possible.

On board "extra" ports.
SPI serial communication port normally used for programming, but can be used for communication.
Extra Pins B0, B1 = Read a switch on/off, output hi/lo 5V/gnd to control an external FET/switch, Can be switched ON/OFF very quickly to send low speed serial data (bit -banging) Think WS2812/Neopixel LEDs.
Extra Pin A2, All of the above but also read voltage via ADC. Think thermistors, potentiometers, etc.

If this giveaway ruffles any feathers with the CPF management, I'll pull the offer.

So, CPFers?
 
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Conte

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Well, these things can be put into just about anything you can physically fit them in. I've had all sorts of ideas, but really, it's just the same thing in different packaging.

The most interesting Idea a came up with recently, is to run serious tests to see if I can use one to run LEDs, specifically the MT-G2.
I've already tested one briefly, but then the MT-G2 can pretty much run direct drive off a pair of IMR cells.
But I was able to use the Vbulb to bias the current fed to the LED, and reprogram the modes to set useful output levels.

One thing I was wondering, which could be sacrifice, is to find out how well it would actually buck. If I could say run this LED off three IMR cells without frying the LED depending solely on the PWM. I'm pretty sure buck drivers usually use an inductor to turn the Vavg into a working Vout.


I'm not sure I want to buy one to dedicate to this kind of test, but I would do it if I had a spare. Sadly it would be done in a Mag D.
If your purpose is to move units, then you may be able to if it's tested functional as an MT-G2 driver. Some guys who run that LED like the idea of direct drive Mosfet.
 

JimmyM

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Keep 'em coming. There was a guy, sorry I forget his handle, that built one of these into an angle head light. Another built a "mini" Larry14K type of light with one.
Remember, these have 2 unused, and customizable pins on the board that can be used to operate indicators, etc. There is code out there that might be able to drive WS2812 based LEDs.
C'mon gents, get those juices flowing.
 

Bimmerboy

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Very cool thread. Just here for moral support as I won't be able to build by 8/1 (possibly by this vernal equinox), but will be using the last D1 I bought from you to make a Frankenstein-ed "mini" spotlight/searchlight, with a little humor thrown in. Been wanting to build this for over two years. Time to dust off the parts.

Remember, these have 2 unused, and customizable pins on the board that can be used to operate indicators, etc.
I did NOT remember, or perhaps even realize that! Sorry, wallet... I may have to buy more parts.
 

Conte

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Very cool thread. Just here for moral support as I won't be able to build by 8/1

If I understand correctly, you don't have to have something built by 8/1, you just have to have an idea for a build submitted by then.
 

Conte

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Jimmy, could you program one of the extra pin to be used for an external thermal sensor.
Say I did that MT-G2 LED build, and wanted a thermal sensor to attach to the LED for the sake of thermal protection.

I meant to ask you if the temp sensor on the D1 was built into the "Tiny" chip, or a component on the PCB in case I wanted to move it.
 

JimmyM

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Jimmy, could you program one of the extra pin to be used for an external thermal sensor.
Say I did that MT-G2 LED build, and wanted a thermal sensor to attach to the LED for the sake of thermal protection.

I meant to ask you if the temp sensor on the D1 was built into the "Tiny" chip, or a component on the PCB in case I wanted to move it.
The sensor in internal, it can't be moved.
The B0 and B1 extra pins can't be used for a thermistor since they're not ADC pins, but the A2 pin could. Typically, this pin is used to connect to the switch to control the regulator, but a bit of programming could solve that. The A2 pin could be used to read the voltage from a thermistor.

The idea just has to be in my Aug 1st. Not the build. I've edited the top post.
 

Justin Case

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Tell you what I could do for sure that might be of interest.
Write up a How To article explaining how to build your unit into a D Mag, updated with the new style Mag Tower, the currently available Fivemega G4 Socket, and optimized using my ingenious assembly methods.

Not sure if you saw my FET switch mod here:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?385630-ROP-goes-to-11-Mag-Tower-FET-mod

I used a JM-PhD-D1 regulator in a Leef D Mag adapter and mounted a Philips 5761 using FM's 6.35 brass holder and ceramic socket.

I'm not sure I see the need for your FET switch when using the JimmyM regulator. All the flashlight's power switch does is provide on/off to the regulator's control line. As I recall, that draws only mA of current.
 

Justin Case

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The 5.2V lower voltage limit is probably close enough to try to use the regulator as an expedient USB charger, via a switchable port in the light.
 

JimmyM

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The 5.2V lower voltage limit is probably close enough to try to use the regulator as an expedient USB charger, via a switchable port in the light.
The 5.2V limit is the lowest battery voltage that is allowed. There is an internal regulator that steps battery voltage down to 5.0V for the microprocessor. However, it can only supply a few milliamps.
 

Justin Case

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Yes, I see now. 5.2V is the lower limit for voltage input. But I could use say 3xIMR26500 in a 2D Mag at roughly 11V to power something like a WA1111 at 7.5V and have a second output setting on a multi-level regulator for 5V output for USB, correct? I'd have to switch to the 5V setting and take the WA1111 out of the circuit, so that the regulator feeds only the USB port.
 

JimmyM

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Yes, I see now. 5.2V is the lower limit for voltage input. But I could use say 3xIMR26500 in a 2D Mag at roughly 11V to power something like a WA1111 at 7.5V and have a second output setting on a multi-level regulator for 5V output for USB, correct? I'd have to switch to the 5V setting and take the WA1111 out of the circuit, so that the regulator feeds only the USB port.
The regulator's output only works for filament bulbs. It isn't a nice smooth DC voltage. It's a square wave that is on (full battery voltage) then off. 244 times a second. The bulb, with its thermal mass "averages" the power and the result is a steady output. Setting a 5V output and connecting it to something other than a bulb would destroy any sort of 5V electronics. This is one area where this regulator can't be used.
 
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Justin Case

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Oh, yeah. I forgot about that. Same reason why using it for LEDs is not recommended unless the LED already can withstand the full Vbatt of the source.

Back to the drawing board!
 
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Bimmerboy

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If I understand correctly, you don't have to have something built by 8/1, you just have to have an idea for a build submitted by then.
Thanks for the heads up! :thumbsup:

In that case...

My build will be a PAR46 H7680 HIR, overdriven at 14.8V by Jimmy's D1, attached to a rusted, bondo'ed and painted, early generation Big Beam 700, powered by 5 X Li-ion. I have all the parts, except I have to make my own battery holder for five E-moli 26700's (yes, this kind of power source is way overkill for this build, but they're laying around doing nothing else)

The idea is to make a very bright, very portable, high tech (though it'll look like crap) spotlight with a tight beam, that will feature nice runtime, excellent color rendition, and of course, regulation. It will also sport a label that, I think, captures the essence of it's silliness, while hinting at it's power and utility. ;)
 

JimmyM

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That's a proper idea. A Rat Rod light..

I've got to set aside some time to start incorporating NeoPixel code. With one pin B0 or B1, you can drive several RGB LEDs. You know. For "Bling".
 

Bimmerboy

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A Rat Rod light..
Hahaha... now you've got me wanting to paint flames down the sides.

I've got to set aside some time to start incorporating NeoPixel code. With one pin B0 or B1, you can drive several RGB LEDs. You know. For "Bling".
JimmyM regulated lights already display all the bling they need out the front! :devil: Nonetheless, what are some of the creative possibilities here?



EDIT: Also, I'd LOVE to program one of my lights to sing a tune. I don't think anyone's taken advantage of this feature yet!
 
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