js's USL reanimation and revivification thread

[js]

Fat Tony,

Runtime is only about 10-12 minutes. So, not long.

And, sadly, I am just now leaving work, and the post office is closing, right this second. Once again, I won't be sending out your USL. I'm really sorry! I'll try to escape during lunch tomorrow to ensure it goes out before the weekend.

I got the eneloop cells, and will check out the fit tonight. I don't expect any problems, but we shall see.

 

[Fat_Tony]

Hi Jim. Thanks for your prompt reply, and no worries about the light. Send it out whenever it is convenient for you to do so. As a matter of fact, since I do not have a charger or power supply yet, if you want to send it to someone who has each of those, that would be OK with me.

To get back to my question about charging the light, what I meant was: Assume that I receive a USL and do not turn it on. How long can the light exist in this state, without being charged, before the pack fails? Thanks again for your help Jim.

 

[js]

Fat Tony,

Ah! I see. At least 6 months, no problem, and probably even as much as a year, if you store it in a cool place. But, ideally you would charge your USL at least once every two months, and once a month would be even better. And I'll send out your package today for sure. It's all packed and addressed so I don't want to switch it at this point.

Everyone,

The eneloop cells have no fit issues, even with the stacks wrapped in kapton tape after end-to-end soldering. So that's good. The weekend I will solder up the pack and rebuild Codeman's USL with it and start the testing. I will also build more USL's for order completion.

 

[mst3k]

And seriously, Bill. If you want to win back some major points here, sending out our Power supplies and chargers would be a really awesome thing to do, don't ya think?

 

[Trashman]

I'm sure I've missed something about the Eneloops, but are you saying that you'll be making packs using them? That would be awesome. I was under the impression that nothing but the GP cells would be able to handle the current, though. Is that no longer the case?

 

[milkyspit]

I'm sure I've missed something about the Eneloops, but are you saying that you'll be making packs using them? That would be awesome. I was under the impression that nothing but the GP cells would be able to handle the current, though. Is that no longer the case?

I'm pretty sure Eneloops didn't exist when the USL was designed... since then people like SilverFox have been profiling Eneloops and noted their ability to handle a substantial amount of current.

As an aside, one thing in the Eneloop's favor, at least on paper, is its rated capacity of 2000mAh. Typically the cells capable of handling higher current demands have lower rated capacity. A modern consumer-grade NiMH cell typically comes in at 2700mAh or so... those cells most certainly cannot handle the USL's drive current! But the 2000mAh capacity of the Eneloop suggests that that may well have an internal design capacle of handling it. I certainly hope so, as it would make the USL a heck of a lot easier to handle in the care and feeding department!

 

[paulr]

I'll be interested to see the results of the Eneloop tests. My vague recollection of Silverfox's graphs was that they were ok up to 4A or so, which is pretty good for a NiMH AA cell not specially designed for high current, but that at the 10A range you needed high current cells designed for RC, cordless tool packs, and the like. If Eneloops can really run at USL current levels, that's awesome.

 

[Dynacolt]

Bill posted out my Triton and it arrived today (thanks Bill). And I got a USL bumper sticker in the package too! Time may have passed, but Bill seems to be coming through slowly now.
The saga is almost over and the wait was well worth it.

Dave.

 

[js]

I'll be interested to see the results of the Eneloop tests. My vague recollection of Silverfox's graphs was that they were ok up to 4A or so, which is pretty good for a NiMH AA cell not specially designed for high current, but that at the 10A range you needed high current cells designed for RC, cordless tool packs, and the like. If Eneloops can really run at USL current levels, that's awesome.

This was exactly my recollection as well, but according to Tom, during a recent phone call we had together, at 8 amps, the eneloops have a MPV of 1.1, which is as good as the Titanium 1800's.

So, the question is, will they hold up to this 4C rate for long or do they get beaten up and start losing capacity and/or voltage. We shall see.

On a more important subject, I have done nothing since I last posted. My back injury chose these past four or five days to flare up, and I am now on a string of graveyard shifts for which there is no one else, so I could absolutely not risk being out of action for these shifts. Thus, sadly, I literally just laid low and did no work--or as little as I could. I don't know how these graveyard shifts are going to treat me, but if my back holds up, I'll spend some time at my work bench. I'll keep you all updated.

Sorry about this!

 

[LuxLuthor]

Obviously Silverfox is the battery guy at the forum. However, I am not sure that Tom has used a lot of "Torch" like incan setups with their 9-10A demands and significant heat buildup. I do not believe the Eneloop was developed for this unique application and stress.

You can do what you want, but my personal guidelines are to use the Eneloops in scenarios where the sustained current is 7-8A. Above that, I use the Elite 1700mAh AA's. I have used at least 300 of them in packs without a single failure I am aware of. They are much more rugged, dependable, and hearty under load than the Titanium 1800mAh, or even the Elite 1500 2/3A.

 

[js]

Lux,

Yeah. I hear you. And I mentioned your recommendation of the Elite cells several posts above, and that was my original plan, but like you say, Tom is the battery guy, and I love the low self discharge of the eneloop cells, so I figure "why not?" I'm game to actually run them through their paces and see what happens.

 

[bwaites]

A few chargers and power supplies have made their way out, mostly to the foreign buyers.

I have only 3 remaining chargers of the old style and have received 3 PM's regarding those, plus one additional. I have also received one request of a downgrade to the stock charger, and I will honor that request as well.

I will get those I have left shipped in the next 3-4 days, and I am waiting on a quote from a local store to pick up some more, of the newer variety.

However, I have received only a total of 5 PM's so I will handle the rest as they come in directing me what to do and how to handle the chargers on an individual basis.

Bill

 

[JSO123]

Hi Jim

I' realize that I'm late to this party, but if it is too late to get on the list for this latest USL build, do you have any cancelations, scratch & dents or any other way I might get one? Not fussy about color or switches, just so long as it works...

Thanks for any suggestions.

Scott

 

[Carpe Diem]

Hi Jim

I' realize that I'm late to this party, but if it is too late to get on the list for this latest USL build, do you have any cancelations, scratch & dents or any other way I might get one? Not fussy about color or switches, just so long as it works...

Thanks for any suggestions.

Scott

PM sent.

🙂

 

[js]

JSO123,

Looks like Carpe Diem might hook you up with a USL, but if not, just shoot me a PM, because the short answer is "yes", I can probably make you a USL. I can't promise anything right now, and I'm pretty much just focused on finishing the outstanding orders, but I doubt it will be a problem.

Everyone,

Charging instructions:

I suggest a C/2 charge. For the Titanium 1800 cells, that means 0.9 amps charge rate. For the Triton, make sure the cell type is NiMH, set the rate to .9 and have no time out, but set the max charge delivered to 2100 mAh, and set the delta V sensitivity to 3 or 4 mV/cell. Also, feel free to set the top off charge rate to 200 mA.

For the Hitec, make sure you're in NiMH mode, and set the rate to .6 amps or somewhat less (be sure to read the right scale-ring on the dial). Then just push the start button. Be sure to monitor the charge towards the end, because the Hitec has been known to miss the end of cycle peak. Or it has done so to me, anyway.

However, MOST IMPORTANT: be sure to INSERT THE BANANA PLUGS INTO THE CHARGER FIRST, before attaching the small black molex connector to the charging pigtail on the light. The reason is because once you connect the charging cable to the pigtail, it is directly connected to the battery pack + and -, and if those two banana plugs touch each other you will short out the pack outputs, putting many amps through the charging cable and molex micro connectors. This will surely fry the small connectors, which are only rated for 3 or 4 amps or something. So, if those banana plugs are already inserted into your charger, then there's no chance of them accidentally touching each other.

Also, I like to stand the USL on its head, grabbing the molex shell on the pigtail with one hand, and it's mating molex shell on the charging cable in the other. Note that there is a locking bar which keeps them mated, and you will need to press on the lever to release the lock before separating them.

I think that covers the charging instructions, but if anyone has any questions, please feel free to ask!

 

[Carpe Diem]

Hi JS...

CPF`er JSO123 has purchased my second USL slot, so please change your purchaser list accordingly. I had two paid slots: 72.1 and 72.2. Slot 72.2 is now owned by JSO123.

If you would, please put JSO123 ahead of me in the pecking order. I`ve sent a PM to you with info re JSO123`s name and shipping address (with a cc to Bill and JSO123).

Thanks again for all of your efforts in this entire venture.

🙂

 

[mst3k]

I got my power supply and charger today! Yay.

Jim any thoughts on using the triton to do a full discharge prior to charging? I had no idea there were so many details involved with charging and discharging these batteries! Pretty cool gizmo this triton is.

Also, just looking at the data sheet that came with the triton, you suggest a .9 amp charge rate, I don't see that as a choice. It seems that 1.0 amps is as close as it gets, but then I haven't fired it up for real yet so perhaps that is a real choice afterall.

So cool to finally have the whole package in my possession. I never thought this day would come. Totally jazzed.

 

[Codeman]

I don't remember the exact steps, but you can set charge levels at 0.1 increments.

 

[js]

mst3k,

As Codeman points out, you can set the charge rate from .1 amps to 5.0 amps, in steps of .1 amps. There is a total power limit, however, so even if you wanted to, you couldn't charge 11 cells at 5 amps! LOL!

Anyway, you'll figure it out, and if you don't please feel free to post questions here. As for discharging your USL prior to charging, there's no need. Just charge 'er up. Discharge by playing around with it. But remember to always keep an eye on the output and turn off as soon as you see marked dimming (i.e. end of cycle).

Everyone,

OK. So, this is the last of my graveyard shifts. I've managed to make it through them, my back intact, my sanity sort of intact, and my brain severely sleep deprived. I will sleep this morning for 5 or 6 hours, then sleep again after midnight, and hopefully switch over to a normal schedule and catch up on my sleep all in one go.

Thus I will almost certainly begin putting in time at my work bench again starting Friday.

I will also update the list to show the sale of one of Carpe Diem's slots.

 

[bwaites]

mst3k, good to hear! I apologize that it took so long!

I'm in the middle of a 20 straight day work schedule, but it will be the last stretch of this nature this year.

I have shipped power supplies and chargers as I have received information from buyers about what their desires are.

At this point, I am out of the original Tritons, except for one already committed to overseas, and no one has PM'd be or emailed me their preferred option about whether they want me to buy their Triton and ship their power supply or send a refund for the charger and ship the power supply.

From that, I am going to assume that everyone still wants me to buy and ship the charger.

I have worked out a deal with a local supplier, and will start processing those as soon as I can.

I also know that a few buyers have already purchased their own chargers, and I will refund those people soon as well.

Bill