just acquired an Israeli Set-Beam Laser Searchlight, where to find missing cord?

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Spironium

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Hello, my name is Spiro and i am very new to this forum. I joined because i got my hands on this very interesting searchlight. I would like to power it up and use it but i am missing the cord to charge the battery pack. Probably will try to sell it in the end but i would like to enjoy it for a while before that. I have searched the internet for hours trying to find a solution. I think i'm going to have to make my own. The problem is i don't understand why there are three pongs, which is + and - , if it even matters which is which, and what the 3rd prong is for. Also could the other end of the cord be clamps i could hook onto a regular car battery? Could anyone point me in the right direction or give a quick tutorial or wiring diagram? Thanks in advance. Pics are below.

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009_zps034049cb.jpg


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NITE LITE

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Welcome to the forum. Nice find there. You will probably have to make a cord. You can order the fitting to fit your power pack and then decide what you want on the other end. You may have noticed it is asking for 28 volts so you will not be able to power it from a regular car battery. Almost all military vehicles run on the 24 volt system which is what you would need to power it up. If and when you decide to sell it I'd be interested in it . It would make a nice accessory to my HMMWV. There is a surplus electronics store that I go to every once and a while that may have that end fitting . If you give me the numbers off of it I could look for one next time I'm there. Once again welcome to the forum. George
 
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NITE LITE

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I can't make out the label completely on the side of it. I see Set Beam is there a model # or any other info on that label. Have you done a search on the net using the info from the label? Sometimes you can find the Technical manuals for them on line.
 
Lips

Lips

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Cool find, never seen one of these... Looks like it's a 150w short arc...



http://itlasers.co.il/pdf/SETBEAM.pdf



SET BEAM
SET BEAM mounted on 7.62mm MAG
Long-Range High-Intensity Xenon Searchlight
SET BEAM is a compact searchlight that emits a highpower,
focused long-range beam from a lightweight,
ruggedized enclosure. SET BEAM’s condensing lens
design prevents the distracting “side lobe” (scattered-light)
eect typical of standard reector-based
projectors, rendering a higher quality, longer range
beam. The operator can opt for a continuous zoom
(narrow-wide-narrow) that can “jump” to a pre-set SPOT
position by merely pressing a button.
SET BEAM enables the detection of man-size objects at
ranges exceeding 1 km, and can be used for long-range
illumination, search and target acquisition as well as for
specic pin-point target designation. The system can be
hand-held, heavy weapon-mounted or vehicle-mounted,
according to operational needs.
Fault-free, reliable operation under adverse
environmental conditions.
Ideal for non-mobilized & mobilized forces, infantry,
armoured units, marine and airborne platforms, and
for border security and peacekeeping scenarios.
FLASH and SPOT modes
Continuous beam (narrow-wide-narrow)
24V DC Power Supply Unit
Fully compliant with US MIL-STD-810
Optional remote control
Optional lter for Visible or IR beam



SET BEAM is a compact searchlight that emits a highpower,
focused long-range beam from a lightweight,
ruggedized enclosure. SET BEAM’s condensing lens
design prevents the distracting “side lobe” (scattered-light)
eect typical of standard reector-based
projectors, rendering a higher quality, longer range
beam. The operator can opt for a continuous zoom
(narrow-wide-narrow) that can “jump” to a pre-set SPOT
position by merely pressing a button.
SET BEAM enables the detection of man-size objects at
ranges exceeding 1 km, and can be used for long-range
illumination, search and target acquisition as well as for
specic pin-point target designation. The system can be
hand-held, heavy weapon-mounted or vehicle-mounted,
according to operational needs.
Fault-free, reliable operation under adverse
environmental conditions.
Ideal for non-mobilized & mobilized forces, infantry,
armoured units, marine and airborne platforms, and
for border security and peacekeeping scenarios

*FLASH and SPOT modes
*Continuous beam (narrow-wide-narrow)
*24V DC Power Supply Unit
*Fully compliant with US MIL-STD-810
*Optional remote control
*Optional lter for Visible or IR beam


Technical Characteristics
Optical
Intensity
900 lux (min) at 40 m (narrow beam)
Beam Divergence
1.0° to 2.5° + SPOT position
Light Source
150 W short-arc Xenon lamp
IR Filter (Optional)
Type
Colored lter glass
Wavelength
830 nm cut-on
Electrical
Power source
24V DC standard; high-eciency power switching regulator type
Current
Consumption
Flashing Rate
7 ashes/sec
Thermal Protection
Power cut-o when Power Supply Unit temperature exceeds +63°C
Physical
Dimensions (LxHxW)
Searchlight
320 x 135 x 92 mm
Power Supply
160 x 110 x 230 mm
Remote Control Unit
119 x 32 x 76 mm
Weight
Searchlight
3.2 kg
Power Supply
3.5 kg
Remote Control Unit
0.5 kg
Environmental
Complies with MIL-STD-810

The manufacturer has a policy of continuous improvements and reserves the right to make changes without prior notice l 01/08
ITL Optronics Ltd.
11 Granit St.
P.O. Box 10168
Petach Tikva 49002 Israel
 
BVH

BVH

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Hello and welcome to CPF. Congratulations on an Excellent find! The Amphenol connector part number you need is: PT06E12-3S-SR That will be a Male Plug with female socket pins that have solder wells so you will solder your cord wires to them. It is a straight plug as opposed to 90 degree configuration. The "E" designates environmental which is more weather resistant. PT06A12-3S-SR would be the same but not as resistant. Mouser.com in the US has them for about $26.00 for the environmental version.

I've not had any 28 Volt military lights with 3 input pins so I don't know what the 3rd pin is for. Maybe it's separate positive feed for the cooling fan, but just a guess. Or maybe some type of common bonding/ground circuit that ties all the separate components together. The Maxabeam short arc light has 4 input pins. Two are positive and two are negative. You may have to open the box up to see where the wires go or see if you can get the info from the mfg.

Just re-read the OP. You mention "to charge the battery pack". Do you know that it is a battery pack? I would guess that it is the power supply with boost circuit and probably part of the ignitor circuits. There's probably no battery inside. But that's just my guess.
 
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D2000

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Welcome to the forum Spiro. Cool name too! Reminds me the periodic table of elements.
The previous posts have much more info than i can give, but as none have mentioned it, i'll say that it might be dangerous to do this with little knowledge about the setup and electricity. I would embark on something like this after asking an electrician to give you his advice. All the best my friend - there is much to be learn and found on this forum.
 
BVH

BVH

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None of the military short arcs I have acquired have been "regulated" - meaning that power to the lamp is always is maintained regardless of input Voltage (to the lowest allowed input Voltage before the light goes out). The VSS-1, VSS-3, Locators, Communicator, even the 60" Carbon Arc are not regulated. Nor is the NightSun. Input Voltage variances have a dramatic effect on output. Running these lights on 2 car-type SLA's at 24-25 Volts will yield far less performance than running them at 27 - 28 Volts. Of course, if you're running one on two SLA's that are in a "24 Volt"/military type vehicle with the engine running and the charging system working, then you'll get the 27+ Volts needed for best performance.

D2000, point taken and it is good to mention the cautions. However, most electricians are not going to know the first thing about short arc lights. They may be familiar with industrial HID lighting which is similar but I wouldn't trust my safety to them when dealing with DC powered Short Arc lights. If you need help, seek out someone who knows them.
 
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Spironium

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WOW! I am ecstatic to see all of these thoughtful replies and wealth of knowledge! Thank you all for the warm welcome as well. So it looks like i may have some difficulty attempting to power this unit to its full potential. I really would like to see what this thing can do but am not sure i could cost effectively find a 28v power source.

I am also considering opening up the power supply box to see exactly where the pins are wired if i cannot find an OEM style cord or some schematics. I have in the past dissected and repaired my mig welder and have also made a homemade stick welder out of microwave oven internals so i am somewhat confident that i wont break anything or zap myself.

I am a few steps closer!


Here are some more pics with part numbers:

010_zpsb05e476f.jpg


007_zpse3f11851.jpg
 
E

edgar

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Wow i would have that thing turned on already ,stop looking at it and give it sompe juice :) (28V)
 
BVH

BVH

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Have to determine which pins to apply power to so as not to reverse polarity and most likely destroy the power supply. Sounds like OP has skills to make the determination hopefully. Dont hesitate to fire it up on two sla's though just to ensure it works. Then worry about finding a 15 amp or so PS. On ebay, you can find the mastech brand of variable power supply. I think they make a 0-30 volt/25 amp unit that would work and im guessing it might be around $125-$150? You'd find lots of other uses for it once you have it.

EDIT: price was too low. Looks like they are $250+
 
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__philippe

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Spironium, how about contacting the mfr directly ?
(Lips already dug out the relevant site and much detailed data about your prized item, post #4)

Unless it's some kind of super-duper secret "Skunk Works" gov outfit, they might even lavish on you a complete power supply diagram.

(OTOH, they might just as well despatch to your address some stern looking gentlemen intent on recovering IL family jewels... :cool: )

nml3pi.jpg


__philippe
 
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FRITZHID

FRITZHID

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Just a thought, the case SHOULD be negatively grounded, therefore throw a multimeter on the case and probe the 3 terminals, of one is 0 ohms (or damn near 0), it's a pretty good guess that the others are positives, then check the ohm ratings on the other two, if one is higher than the other, most likely, that's your lamp +28v, if they are close, test for ohms between them, if zero, they are like the maxabeam, hit them both with +24-28v, if they differ, hit the other with +5, 12, THEN 24-28v.
There's a chance that one pin is either a fan power pin OR a feedback control pin.
(just my 2¢ worth)
 
ma_sha1

ma_sha1

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Wow, another never known short arc popping up?

Nice find!
 
S

Spironium

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Thanks everyone! I contacted the manufacturer but have received no response unfortunately.

I know this is a miniscule project for a lot of the members of this forum but i'm just not set up to fire this thing up without spending some bucks. Not to mention that I am overloaded with other projects.

Replied to your pm BVH
 

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