gadget_lover
Flashaholic
A great writeup.
I look forward to following the same process on mine.
Daniel
I look forward to following the same process on mine.
Daniel
just bought an used knee mill ... photos!
- Thread starter wquiles
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Clark
Newly Enlightened
Well, I finally got the DRO installed in my mill. I bought the kit from Shars only about 12 months ago, so I guess it was time to finally install it 🙂
Many, many thanks to Daniel (gadget_lover) for this advice, and photos - much appreciated :bow:
Here is my mill prior to getting started a couple of days ago:
The kit I got from Shars about a year ago !!!
The most confidence-inspiring part of the kit :devil:
Photos from Daniel ready for reference. As you will see, although my install was slightly different in how I attached the scales, it follows Daniel's advice:
I first had to remove I few things, like my E-stop (which I still have to relocate):
Like Daniel suggested you really need to get the table position on all extremes to see what could be a problem or not:
So I found I had to move my 220-V OFF/ON switch as it would interfere with the "Y" scale:
I also had to move the oil pump a little to make room for a bracket for the "Z" scale (before and after pictures):
Lots of "Z" travel possible - about 20 inches, and to within less than 2 inches from the spindle:
Of course in a case of poetic justice I used the mill to mill some parts as I went along:
Used transfer punches everywhere to locate where to drill the holes:
In this case of the "Z" scale the scale itself is fixed, while the measuring head is the one that moves:
Also used my trusty old and cheap saw to trim the pieces (now easier to use with a hydraulic piston!):
And used my lathe to trim/adjust spacers:
Since the column gets thinner on top, there is a large gap that needed spacers:
Almost there:
Then used my trusty Noga/Interapid setup to check/adjust alignment. This was both good and bad. The problem is that all of the pieces have flex and are not perfectly flat, so you can only adjust things part of the way. I decided to also use the "resting" place of the scale and reader and ended up setting/adjusting everything up to minimize/eliminate as much as possible any binding:
Here the "Z" scale is done. I am testing it with the display:
I then made brackets for the "Y" scale. Here the reader is stationary and the scale moves:
Important to have it "out" enough so that it clears the main column:
I got the base for the reader aligned for initial setup using a couple of Starrett pieces:
Final assembly (note use of the thin spacers that come with the kit - imperative for proper alignment and in order to minimize binding):
Here the "Z" scale is done, and I am testing it with the display:
The "X" scale was the easiest since I don't ever use the table stops (famous last words!), so the scale was setup directly to the table, and the reader is fixed to the X-Y platform which moves with the Y axis:
Testing with the reader:
I mounted the display in the same place as Daniel. Here I am using my extremely quiet (sounds like an electric dill), light-duty air drill, which arrived when I was doing the "X" scale - I wish I had it earlier when I started the project:
Overall view (not quite done cleaning everything yet):
View with everything cleaned. I still have to bolt the cover for the "X" scale, and relocate the E-stop, but the bulk of the work is done :thumbsup:
EDIT: Here are the photos of the "X" scale cover and the magnet I used to make the E-stop a movable setup.
Here I am cutting the cover to allow easy access to the two gib screws that hold the xy table stationary in the x direction:
I also cut the top side of the cover to clear the table:
Here you can see better how the lower cut helps clear the table screw stops:
And finally, a small bead of silicone to make sure I don't get accumulated debris in between the cover and the table:
Here is my E-stop with a powerful hard-drive magnet. Once in place, it does not move while in use - not even a little bit. It takes a lot of force to move it afterwards to a new location:
With some double sticky tape I added a tape measure to the top of the scale cover for reference (marking the center of the table as well):
Will
Many, many thanks to Daniel (gadget_lover) for this advice, and photos - much appreciated :bow:
Here is my mill prior to getting started a couple of days ago:
The kit I got from Shars about a year ago !!!
The most confidence-inspiring part of the kit :devil:
Photos from Daniel ready for reference. As you will see, although my install was slightly different in how I attached the scales, it follows Daniel's advice:
I first had to remove I few things, like my E-stop (which I still have to relocate):
Like Daniel suggested you really need to get the table position on all extremes to see what could be a problem or not:
So I found I had to move my 220-V OFF/ON switch as it would interfere with the "Y" scale:
I also had to move the oil pump a little to make room for a bracket for the "Z" scale (before and after pictures):
Lots of "Z" travel possible - about 20 inches, and to within less than 2 inches from the spindle:
Of course in a case of poetic justice I used the mill to mill some parts as I went along:
Used transfer punches everywhere to locate where to drill the holes:
In this case of the "Z" scale the scale itself is fixed, while the measuring head is the one that moves:
Also used my trusty old and cheap saw to trim the pieces (now easier to use with a hydraulic piston!):
And used my lathe to trim/adjust spacers:
Since the column gets thinner on top, there is a large gap that needed spacers:
Almost there:
Then used my trusty Noga/Interapid setup to check/adjust alignment. This was both good and bad. The problem is that all of the pieces have flex and are not perfectly flat, so you can only adjust things part of the way. I decided to also use the "resting" place of the scale and reader and ended up setting/adjusting everything up to minimize/eliminate as much as possible any binding:
Here the "Z" scale is done. I am testing it with the display:
I then made brackets for the "Y" scale. Here the reader is stationary and the scale moves:
Important to have it "out" enough so that it clears the main column:
I got the base for the reader aligned for initial setup using a couple of Starrett pieces:
Final assembly (note use of the thin spacers that come with the kit - imperative for proper alignment and in order to minimize binding):
Here the "Z" scale is done, and I am testing it with the display:
The "X" scale was the easiest since I don't ever use the table stops (famous last words!), so the scale was setup directly to the table, and the reader is fixed to the X-Y platform which moves with the Y axis:
Testing with the reader:
I mounted the display in the same place as Daniel. Here I am using my extremely quiet (sounds like an electric dill), light-duty air drill, which arrived when I was doing the "X" scale - I wish I had it earlier when I started the project:
Overall view (not quite done cleaning everything yet):
View with everything cleaned. I still have to bolt the cover for the "X" scale, and relocate the E-stop, but the bulk of the work is done :thumbsup:
EDIT: Here are the photos of the "X" scale cover and the magnet I used to make the E-stop a movable setup.
Here I am cutting the cover to allow easy access to the two gib screws that hold the xy table stationary in the x direction:
I also cut the top side of the cover to clear the table:
Here you can see better how the lower cut helps clear the table screw stops:
And finally, a small bead of silicone to make sure I don't get accumulated debris in between the cover and the table:
Here is my E-stop with a powerful hard-drive magnet. Once in place, it does not move while in use - not even a little bit. It takes a lot of force to move it afterwards to a new location:
With some double sticky tape I added a tape measure to the top of the scale cover for reference (marking the center of the table as well):
Will
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precisionworks
Flashaholic
Nice :thumbsup:
Are you planning to finish the VFD sometime before the year 2020 :nana:
Are you planning to finish the VFD sometime before the year 2020 :nana:
Barry, I have had the VFD running on that mill for many months now 😕
link to earlier in this thread with the VFD already installed
The one I have not started is the one for my PM 12x36 lathe - that one will use the 5HP 3PH Baldor motor I already have 😉
gadget_lover
Flashaholic
That looks real nice! You did an excellent job. You will definitely enjoy it.
It takes a bit of getting used to that .0002 inch display 🙂. I usually do not need such precision, but I ended up chasing that last thou anyway. I finally got used it it and stop when I'm within .0002 or 3. Good enough for government work.
Daniel
It takes a bit of getting used to that .0002 inch display 🙂. I usually do not need such precision, but I ended up chasing that last thou anyway. I finally got used it it and stop when I'm within .0002 or 3. Good enough for government work.
Daniel
Thanks much dude - your installation was my inspiration and guide to getting this done :thumbsup:
precisionworks
Flashaholic
My bad ... a lathe & a mill look almost alike :nana:
Well, they both have rotating/moving parts, they both make chips, so yes, they almost look alike :naughty:
Last edited:
unterhausen
Enlightened
- Joined
- Jan 16, 2009
- Messages
- 275
I have a dro that I wanted to put on my lathe, but the carriage is so low profile that it seems too difficult. And it would be like putting lipstick on a pig, my lathe is about as bad as it gets before round parts are impossible.
Nice job on the mount
Nice job on the mount
Clark
Newly Enlightened
That SINO DRO looks kind of like the one that Quality Machine Tools installed on my Precision Matthews lathe.
When I touch it, it is
x
0
enter
y
0
enter
When I touch it, it is
x
0
enter
y
0
enter
FYI, I added a few more pictures to complete the installation pictorial.
Will
Will
As far as I can tell, yes, they are the same DRO unit, except the lathe is a 2-scale and the one in the mill is a 3-scale unit. However, I don't know for sure that the glass scales on both setups (mill-Shars & lathe-PM/Quality Machine) are identical or not.
Will
For some time now I had a second near-dry lubricator for my knee-mill, but the one I bought came without a way to mount the two nozzles. By chance, I ran into a seller in Ebay that was selling just the right mount for this application:
Unfortunately the thin copper tubing diameter (0.25") was too small for the clamp holder:
So of course I made a small Delrin spacer for it:
Made a small bevel on both ends:
And voilà, all done:
Will
Unfortunately the thin copper tubing diameter (0.25") was too small for the clamp holder:
So of course I made a small Delrin spacer for it:
Made a small bevel on both ends:
And voilà, all done:
Will
gadget_lover
Flashaholic
You raised the bar AGAIN!
One of these days I'll stop trying to keep up. 🙂
Daniel
One of these days I'll stop trying to keep up. 🙂
Daniel
Thanks Dan 
The ultimate setup is a CNC conversion, but that is not in the cards at this time, nor any time soon - no money/time for it
Will
The ultimate setup is a CNC conversion, but that is not in the cards at this time, nor any time soon - no money/time for it
Will
precisionworks
Flashaholic
LOL 🙂
The MQL applicators are hands down the best & cleanest way to apply lubricant. My mill has a single pump unit & the lathe has a twin pump. The amount of lubricant used is miniscule, about 1 oz in 8 hours of machining. When machining work hardening metals like Ti-6-4 or 316SS the airflow moves chips away from the tool & prevents recutting of hardened chips.
I have been thinking (I know, dangerous!) about a potential CNC conversion to my knee mill. Pros and cons? Any links to folks who have done a CNC conversion in this kind/type of machine? Would I be able to keep my DRO/scales for positioning with the CNC system?
I can't help with your decision but I have also thought about a CNC conversion many times although I absolutely have no desire to go CNC. Of course I wouldn't mind CNC, it would expand anyone's capabilities & would be great to be able to make intricate parts.
I'm just not a big fan of CNC conversions, I'm sure many of them are great but the way I think is.... think of how much you spent on your mill now, then add the cost to CNC it (if you have an idea)....in the end you could have bought a Tormach for less & would be a much better machine with much more features & capabilities. The PM-45M-CNC is only $5K & it looks like it can still be used in manual mode. Not sure if it's any good & is limited but I hear Matt has been selling quite a few of them. One customer even purchased a number of them more after purchasing the first one & evaluating it.
I don't do any real production work, many times I use the lathe or mill to do a quick cut or modify a part. Depending on how you do your conversion, I certainly wouldn't want to spend the time to program a quick cut. As long as my "shop" stays as a home shop I won't think about it anymore. Now if I ever do move everything into a shop I would definitely consider a dedicated CNC machine but I will still have conventional machines along with it.
If you do convert it, I'll definitely be following the build. 😉
That is "exactly" why I asked. I also feel that a Tormach PCM1100-3 would be ideal for my home shop. Now that I can weld, I can make my own stand and save "some" of the $1700 for their stand (in exchange for my labor), but at slightly over $10K for the base setup, it is not a trivial decision. Finding an used (in good shape - after all, these are hobby-type) one might be the way to go.
