KC2IXE
Flashaholic*
Re: just bought an used knee mill ...
Nice little mill. I looked for one like that for a LONG time, but then found my Burke Millrite (aka a Rockwell) - ended up with the version with no nod. The dealer had 2 - one with Varispeed, nod, and the small table, but kinda beat, and one with belt change, the larger table, and no nod, but still showing oringinal flaking... Guess which one I took?
Congrats on the find - Knee Mills are a tad more versitile than Mill/drills. Plan on making a bunch of scrap - buy some material/get some from a scrap bin, and do things like square up the block, make grooves, etc - aka - play, before doing "real" work
Oh - and don't bother with the real cheap cutter sets. Frankly, they don't work real well, get good end mills - they don't have to be the TOP of the line. I've found little use for solid carbide, except when I needed a 9/32 ball end mill, and I could ONLY get it in carbide. I've had luck with OSG, Putnam, and Niagara (which I believe is a Travers Tool house brand). That said, the "house" brand cutters from the big houses (MSC, Travers etc) are a LOT better than the cheapy sets the same company often sells (stay away from the Enco cheap sets, even if they have been owned by MSC for something like a decade)
Roughing end mills, or even "fine finish" roughing (aka semi-roughing) take a lot less power to drive, and on a lighter mill, put a lot less forces on the mill - I bought a couple of STEEL (not Carbide) Niagara 3 flute roughing mills in 3/8", and they are one of my favorate mills to use (I don't know if they are still made)
Just like any other machine tool, you can easily spend more on tooling than the machine, and mills are worse than a lathe, as the vise is expensive, and tooling (the mills) aren't cheap, and are not something you can re-sharpen yourself unless you have special tools
Nice little mill. I looked for one like that for a LONG time, but then found my Burke Millrite (aka a Rockwell) - ended up with the version with no nod. The dealer had 2 - one with Varispeed, nod, and the small table, but kinda beat, and one with belt change, the larger table, and no nod, but still showing oringinal flaking... Guess which one I took?
Congrats on the find - Knee Mills are a tad more versitile than Mill/drills. Plan on making a bunch of scrap - buy some material/get some from a scrap bin, and do things like square up the block, make grooves, etc - aka - play, before doing "real" work
Oh - and don't bother with the real cheap cutter sets. Frankly, they don't work real well, get good end mills - they don't have to be the TOP of the line. I've found little use for solid carbide, except when I needed a 9/32 ball end mill, and I could ONLY get it in carbide. I've had luck with OSG, Putnam, and Niagara (which I believe is a Travers Tool house brand). That said, the "house" brand cutters from the big houses (MSC, Travers etc) are a LOT better than the cheapy sets the same company often sells (stay away from the Enco cheap sets, even if they have been owned by MSC for something like a decade)
Roughing end mills, or even "fine finish" roughing (aka semi-roughing) take a lot less power to drive, and on a lighter mill, put a lot less forces on the mill - I bought a couple of STEEL (not Carbide) Niagara 3 flute roughing mills in 3/8", and they are one of my favorate mills to use (I don't know if they are still made)
Just like any other machine tool, you can easily spend more on tooling than the machine, and mills are worse than a lathe, as the vise is expensive, and tooling (the mills) aren't cheap, and are not something you can re-sharpen yourself unless you have special tools
